How to: DIY Wedge Camper

I was looking through the GFC forum topic about their failing hinge (old style, long piece of polyurethane type material that was riveted along the top edge of the panel) and someone dropped a mention to just using these hinges.

https://whitewatermh.com/product/long-reach-hatch-hinge/

Seems like you could mount those to the t-track and then create a stiff mounting point on the panel, have some nice hinges that would even allow you to remove the panel if you wish. Anyone seen these yet or considered them?

 

Id be concerned with it becoming cloudy and scratched.

I did find this though that looks like it would work
https://www.interstateplastics.com/...4vSLrL2r_R06WV9zkmcChEgFEGLkPDxoCloAQAvD_BwE&

 

Good call. Thought it would be cool when the stars are out.

 

You're better off using glass. Theres a reason vehicle windows are not made out of plastic. Glass will obviously be much heavier though.

 

Anyone find another distributor for the 8020? The lead times on the black anodized from 8020.net seem to be super long

Debating going all silver on everything (Drifter / AT Style) instead of Black 8020 and white doors to match my white truck and its black accents.

 

I ordered all my extrusion (1530) from tnutz.com . Saved around $300 from 8020.net.

 

Does anyone have any advice on mounting the jeep latches? I opted for

DEF Hood Latches Lock Catch Kit for 2007-2018 Wrangler JK JKU Black Stainless Steel Hood Lock(1 Pair)

these since the ones on the sheet were sold out for a while, I'm facing an issue where it's either too tight or too loose. and I am not sure if it's wise to mill the hole so I can slide the latch up/down?

I also noticed a few completed builds using different (non-jeep) latches, something like

$20 Creatyi 4 Packs Rubber Flexible Hasp T-Handle Draw Latches (Style 1..)

this

as always, it takes a village!

 

I recommend getting the adjustable one. This allows you to adjust the tension on the latch to make it perfect... But! perhaps someone with a non-adjustable can chime in. Here's what I got:

$146 Rugged Ridge | Hood Catch Kit, Textured Black | 11210.17 | Fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge...p+wrangler+hood+latches&qid=1614192691&sr=8-7

 

The non-adjustable worked perfectly on mine with no modification. They just take a smidge of effort to get latched, but I like the tight fit

 

which ones did you get?

 

Did you get both sizes from them? I see they have the 1545 extrusion. Doesn’t say light weight. I’ll look into it and see if it’s the same weight as 8020’s. Only issue is Tnutz only goes up to 96” where as 8020 you can get the 100” Sticks

 

I did 1530 (3'') for both sides

 

I see. Max length is still 96” through tnutz. I’m sticking with the 100” as per the bill of materials

 

Same ones you have

 

the lead time they have on the shipping quote is around 3 weeks between in house processing and shipping time. Are are seeing something longer?

 

Yeah thats what I read. Didn't mean to exaggerate. I'm traveling west and trying to do my build in a limited amount of time at my brother's in Bozeman. So that extra 3 weeks was a bit of a deal breaker for me. Hoping to arrive in about a week and get to work.

 

Updates: I had to move one of the gas shock mount points on the space frame. (ie grind out the old weld nut, drill a new hole, weld in a new nut, weld closed the old hole.)
This was also the first mount point I made, and since it was made with the least experience, was the most troubled. All of the gas shock mount points on the space frame are inset towards the interior of the frame, maybe by 1/4"-3/8", this eliminates the problem of the panels not staying closed when unlatched, that was discussed earlier in the thread. I saw somebody solved their issue with those ball stud brackets, that inset the pivot point. My panels will stay closed when unlatched. I also used a thinner weld nut because when I installed the panel stiffeners I didn't compensate for the width of OG weld nuts, plus the ball stud, plus the gas shock and the shocks were just barely bumping into the panel stiffeners, causing the panels to bow out more than necessary. The thinner weld nuts fixed this, and they look real clean. Ordered them from McMaster-Carr #90594A430
Also attached are photos, that show the stainless piano hinges in place. They will get full mounting hardware for final assembly, after the frame is painted. Currently they are attached with the "good enough to hold it" method

 

I like the stainless hinge. I look forward to it finalized

 

ahh gotcha. no exaggeration just had me worried that I had missed something! haha

 

what part number is the stainless hinge you got?