Dual Battery on P-side

For those running a dual battery setup can you fit a group 24 or 27 on the passenger side? I’ve done some searching but ultimately didn’t find what is was looking for.

Most of the off the shelf mounts for the passenger side say group 34/35, can you squeeze a larger battery over there? The only mount I say that mentioned group 24 is the SDHQ mount but only with a stock flooded battery.

Or do I need to ultimately extend the factory wires and move the start battery if I’m dead set on something larger than a group 34 AGM for a house battery? Current start battery is a Northstar 27f AGM.

As for use, this would be to power my Indel b 50, ham/cb radios, camp lights, and a few additional 12vpower and usb ports. Isolator is Blue Sea 7622.

 

Bueller?

 

Bump, same question

 

Lots of info here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ts-see-them-multiple-batteries-thread.295653/
I thought about dual battery for a nit and found lots out in this thread.
GL

 

151 pages though, ugh

 

The search function really helps in longer threads. You can choose to search for terms that will make it more relevant. When I built my aux power panel, the thread was huge, but I was able to narrow it to relevant posts.

 

After taking a bunch of measurements I ended up getting the SDHQ mount and stuffing a group 24F in it. I usually go against the grain and fab my own stuff but this solution was easy. Yes, it you want to make your own mount you count have it about 1.5” longer and squeeze it up against the AC lines and then mount your ACR somewhere else. I have not yet swapped the factory wiring to the smaller battery but am planning to this summer.

 

I don’t maintain a build thread here on TW, for more info as to what I’ve done it’s over on IH8MUD.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/do-i-need-to-buy-a-flat-bill-now-chap79-tacoma-build.1191419/

 

So is your plan to make the P-side battery your starter and get a bigger D-side battery as the aux?

 

That’s the plan, but I’m in no hurry since I’m currently running a X2Power 27F (rated at 92AH) in the stock location and a X2Power 24F (76AH) as the house battery. Given that the house battery mainly only powers my fridge when the vehicle is turned off changing the wiring has been a low priority. If I would have purchased a group 31 battery instead of the 27F it would be a higher priority, but I really didn’t want that much more extra weight on the fender.

I have hopes to add solar to the setup eventually so that the system is more self supporting. But I’m the type of person that will research options for months before pulling the trigger.

 

why the relay for a voltmeter?

 

What’s the wiring process like for changing the starter battery location? I asked off grid and they made it sound like it’s a huge hassel

 

So that it’s only active with the ignition on. I try to keep my parasitic draws to a minimum.

 

Don’t know yet
Depends on how deep into the wiring you want to get. Just cut and extend all the wiring to the other side, secure it and call it a day. Or open the factory loom and trace the Pos and Neg as back as far as you can to replace the whole wire.

the Off Grid kit is just some crimps and extensions with a little loom IIRC. Given that I’ve already gone this far with no pre made kit I’m not worried about it. The biggest issue is making sure you are using good quality supplies (I use welding and marine wiring/terminals) and that all the connections are sealed. Corrosion will kill your electric system with a quickness.

 

Any problems having 2 different size batteries or charging AGM?

 

Starter and house battery can be different.

You could use two different size house batteries but not connected. If your using the same controller/BCDC charger for two house batteries if different sizes that’s not recommended. You’d need two separate BCDC chargers.