How to: DIY Wedge Camper

UPDATES:
I'm well into the sewing portion. I'm going to attempt to write/explain what I did, and then post the photos below. I laid out painters plastic on the floor to protect the fabric, also since the basement garage is the only suitable place for a project this size. I sewed in 2" velcro, about an inch lower than where the hem for the keder rail is, I did this first because of how the stitches had to go in, and so that I wouldn't make the "tube" that the keder cord slips into, too short. (The Velcro, is so that I can attach/Remove a big awning/rainfly later) After the Velcro, I sewed in the hem for the Keder Cord all the way around, And did a test fit on the camper. NOTE: I hate threading bolts into slot nuts and so I pre-threaded the slot nuts onto the bolts through the keder rail, took off the end of the roof frame and slid the keder rail, with the tent canvas attached, into the frame. Super simple, not much trouble at all. The bottom portion isn't a pain, because it sits vertical. I left the frame in place on the bottom. I took it back down pulled the Cord, and the rail, and started on the windows. The Triangle windows utilize a double zipper, which is just two lengths of the uretek coated zipper stitched together, the corners at the top are, as best I can describe mitered together. I'll have to put metal zipper stops in soon, to keep the zipper pulls from coming off the end of the inside corners. (Sailrite sells them). This double zipper yields a real tidy appearance and I can open the tent wall, to reveal bug mesh or the whole side right from the same spot.

I have taken to sewing binding to border the windows. There are some SailRite Videos about binding and how to work with it. Basically it's just double hemmed strips that help strengthen and secure the edges of things. I chose to do this for strength and for aesthetics. The Middle rectangular window has straight zippered sides and the top of the flap is lengthened with a piece of 2" binding, utilizing 1" velcro on the inside of the flap side and the inside of the tent. Basically you pull the velcro flap and pull the zippers straight down to open the window, the bug mesh is fixed here and does not unzip. (couldn't figure out a more elegant solution) the bug mesh seams are bound with 1" binding, and the top of the window is shielded by a 4" Storm Flap, since there are some tiny gaps left exposed where the zippers meet the top edge of the window around the binding/Velcro.

I still have to finish the passenger side triangular window, and make/sew in the rain skirts. Turns out, I kinda Dig Patterning and Sewing giant things. More to follow...


^With such a thin material, like the bug mesh, The binding helps pinch it down and cleans up the appearance. At least thats how I see it.
In the Photo Below the Binding helps secure the velcro strips for securing the window flaps in the rolled down position.


^ These little Patches are pieces of 2" Binding, that are stitched on the inside of the wall, at the bottom of the zippers to tidy up the
ends and to act as a foolproof zipper stop. They are in the same position as the binding strips on the bottom of the outside of the wall,
so that the rectangle stitch pattern isn't visible. These just have to go in first, so that the outside binding covers the stitches.

 

happy to report that the Stoic double cloud inflatable mattress fits like a GLOVE!!!!! I got mine from steep and cheep for $160 bucks, really great quality and feel.

 

Well I ordered the Ironman 4x4 and its goo small doesn't fit the ovs awning. Any chance you'd be willing to make to another set of those mounts?

 

When attaching the extrusion to the spaceframe, the cork goes first, then the aluminum panel, then extrusion. Has anyone put silicon or anything in between? Or is it compressed enough to not need it?

 

Can Confirm, I ordered one a Month or so Back from BackCountry. Got it on sale for about $180.

 

I've got the main extrusion and floor panel installed. Working on the roof now and I struggled with the floor t-nuts, so I just installed everything loose and slide the extrusion into place and then attached everything. Tedious, but worked well. Worried about the roof with the generic t-nuts because they don't sit in the channel flat. Ideas?

 

These generic t-nuts are killing me . I have no idea how yall were able to attach the keder rail or anything for that matter lol. Going to end up just ordering slide bolts for the remainder of the project, unless anyone has a better idea.

 

There are several suggestions for managing t-nut alignment woes in the thread, but in most cases they amount to working out your assembly process so that you can preassemble the nut and bolt through the item to be attached (the Keder rail for example) outside of the extrusion, and then sliding the whole shebang into the extrusion through the end.

 

Figured out the t-nut issue. Thanks for all that helped.
One more for now, I see tons of different applications for clamps for the extrusion. I'm doing a full pop up style and want to put two clamps on the outside extrusion. Any thoughts on what would be the best for this? I've looked at the jeep latches, the hook latches on Amazon and McMaster and there are so many that I'm down the rabbit hole now. I'm trying to spend less than $100 for 4.

 

I went with the jeep clamp style on the front and the sides I used these cheaper ones. Might not have as much clamping force so YMMV.
Hydraker 1 Pair Black Hood Latch Hoods Catch Lock Fit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK&JKU

Hydraker 1 Pair Black Hood Latch Hoods Catch Lock Fit for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK&JKU

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07VRY3..._glt_fabc_WG1PYT2QDEGEAKC8202E?_encoding=UTF8

Edit: Modification to the clamp is required for the hole sizing. But overall I like them. I actually don't need them really as I went 3" upper extrusion and the weight is enough to not have the struts pushing the extrusion up like the 1.5" extrusion.

 

I'm giving these a try (arriving tomorrow). Type used on 4 Wheel Camper and other pop ups.

Will report back.

$17 JR Products 11845 Black Fold Down Camper Latch and Catch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1MLB5A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8

 

I got these cheapos: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-H...p-Wrangler-JK-JL-2007-2019-Black/313346422620

About $45 for four. They required the modifications that Ripcord mentions in his write up (enlarging and countersinking the hole on the hook part, drilling out the hook a touch for additional clearance), but it was maybe 30min of work and they seem to be fine. Caveat here is that I am still assembling the camper so haven't tested them thoroughly at all.

 

I ordered these, after I figured that one pair isn't enough. These for 27$ seem to be decent and made of aluminum, but they also need to be reworked to fit, which takes around 10min for each.

Black Aluminum Hood Lock Catch Latch Pair Kit Compatible with 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK JKU

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SGKB9Q4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_SNHEHN0J3YXH8C6PNQVJ?_encoding=UTF8

 

Got any pictures of your full pop build?

 

Not yet, but will post as soon a I get the roof fixed to extrusion and install the struts

 

They Are called T-slot covers and can be had from multiple industrial suppliers.

https://8020.net/finishingyourframe/coverscaps.html

 

Alright, as my build will hopefully be finished in about 4-5 days here are my main tips/changes from the main diy post (that I don’t recall seeing throughout the thread) for anyone in the process or about to start.

1. Order extra boxes of 5/16 -18 3/4 and 1/2 socket caps. I ended up being short and had to run to Home Depot on some last minute trips.

2. spend the extra 100/200 on the full size slot nuts. The extra cost in my opinion is worth it for additional strength in your camper and ease of use. The leaf spring style slot nuts for tnutz I found to be especially helpful because you can actually drop them in as well by pushing them in sideways. The hold their place very well also.

3. Put the tent in before you seal the roof and floor. I found it to be much easier to access every slot but with room to work. I had no trouble sealing the roof and floor with the tent in place as long as you tie your bungee cord around the canvas so it all stays in place.

4. Buy yourself a nice set of t handle or offset handle hex wrenches they are worth their weight in gold in this project.

as always thanks to ripcord and anyone else who has answered questions and provided help you guys rock.

 

What fabric did you end up ordering? Looks great!

 

tent stays tucked in very nicely

 

Continuing the build, waiting on parts, gonna install the icon stx rear springs today. Have icon stage 2 all around on my 2019 TRD off-road, and looking at upgrading the front suspension to possible mid travel. Offroqd use isn't going to be insane, just here and there. Not so much wheeling. Any suggestions or updating the front? Looking at a mid travel, and everyone says fox and king are best for ride quality. Also planning the cmc soon.