'Never Enough' Build'n Chat

Had to do the same thing with the brackets for my Kings. Its amazing how intrusive the ARB is compared to others haha. I cut mine out so it still maintains a portion of that rib and the structural rigidity. But I like the gusset you made.

 

Thanks for the pic!

We were wondering if it was a problem with the Elka bracket or what. Now I see its just the ARB getting in the way.



Jeremiah fixed it up so it had structure to it again, we were happy with how it turned out. I was over the top excited

 

Found the rear tail lights I got from @3JOH22A, decided it was time to replace the busted one.

 

@tacoma16 @Windigo

You have me full steam ahead, even if I dont know exactly what I am doing.




You were right @tacoma16 shipping was a bit from down where you guys are, worked out to the same with buying it local. $452 all said and done.

So I am missing one large part still it seems.

 

Lol that escalated quickly.

Which large part are you referring to?

 

I am not sure, I think this exploded piece?

I jumped in before doing full research. Do not mind me, I will figure it out.

 

apparently you can keep the front axle you have and still use the fj t case. Just need a separate switch for the front ADD. btw any details as the what happened there?

 

ADD delete is the entire point of this?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-deleting-add-system.427258/

Or am I wrong as to what you are doing?

 

@tacoma16 now that I did some reading, it is in the ADD delete thread

1x – 4132135050 diff tube hosing from manual FJ cruiser $110

 

You need a few more parts then just that. I would recommend sourcing a manual front diff like @Windigo since the parts new are close to $1200 cnd. I had the pleasure of having to buy them twice.....

you can also weld your stock tube keeping it engaged.

 

I don't know what I'm doing on my best days
I was just going to shift the fork over on the ADD and keep it there somehow so its always engaged.
But since i already had the front diff for a future upgrade I used the tube.

 

When I figure out what this means, I will look into it.

 

I just now shifted my FJ t-case for the 1st time. I now know why you can twin stick it.

It is all making more sense now

This is going to be an awesome learning experience, as well make my truck way more bad ass.

 

Bingo! It’s awesome. Just holler if you need any help.

 

Let me bug you about some of these things.

After reading about the twin stick mod, no big deal I understand that now. Just trimming a bit of metal off inside there so the sticks move independently.

The ADD delete though I need some more explanation.

I see this list of parts, and somewhat understand where they all go after looking at all the images.

So putting in the FJ T-case gives you the ability to now stick shift it, instead of the ADD. You then need to delete the ADD system so it is just not there anymore?

Is this correct?

Can you go in more depth as to why I would want this? I would put this front diff in and remove my front diff? I believe it has to do with the constant spinning of something while not engaged?

I want to start buying all the parts for this project, but before I go any further. I need to know where they all go and why.

 

so the add delete is getting rid of the weak diff tube, possibility of a faulty actuator and essentially no more electronics to fail in the 4x4 system.

getting the manual diff from the fj it comes with the diff tube that you need. The par numbers you posted are the parts that come on a manual fj. So by buying the entire front diff for say $300-400 you save some money. You cannot use the diff. Just the tube. The manual fj is geared to 3.90 or something. So you would just be taking the diff tube.

 

Thank you for clearing that up, now I now what to look up on car-parts.com

 

this is a stock Tacoma or stock auto fj front diff. Notice the tube has the add


The manual fjs are awd so they don’t ever disconnect the front end. There diff tubes look like this


By doing this mod your front end (including the diff) will be spinning. No more front driveshaft moving freely when parked. Now the drive power is neutral at the tcase.

Hope that helps more

 

All good. More info above. Feel free to call me to. Sometime typing this out is hard lol.

 

Thanks for the explanation. This makes way more sense now. I understand why you got the new front diff now(yours was damaged). It is all becoming more clear.



Finding the front diff from a manual FJ though, not the easiest thing to search for.