What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Along with the CVs, adjusted driver side coilover (taco lean developed after the coils settled)

Two full turns of the collar did the trick.




Re-welded the stinking bracket that came off with the skid plate.



And burned in a set of @eimkeith shock tower reinforcement plates.

 

These worked really well when we rebooted our CVs.

$33 KNIPEX - 10 99 i220 Tools - Ear Clamp Pliers, Front and Side Jaws (1099i220), Red

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I3H6UIC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8

 

I had a good weekend as well. Got Igor back on all 4 wheels and drove him around after cranking the coils just a turn and a half. Helped with the stink bug stance when unloaded a bit. New oil as well. Front end looked good otherwise.


On the little truck, got a new air filter and oil too. Plus spent some time while waiting for the oil to drain(Man the Fumoto valve thing is nice, but wow is it sloooow) I replace a blinker and the marker lights. Got the two trigger wires for the

$659 SP9100 Switch Pros SP-9100 8-Switch Panel Power System With Concealed Mounting Hardware

SP9100 tapped to the markers and the high beams. And fabbed up a little bracket for the S1 switchback relays for the fog lights and ditch lights. Progress. Almost ready to finish this up and have some nice lights to go.

 

All the tools I used are in this write-up: How-to: Rebooting a Tacoma CV Axle

I had to buy two tools for this job, and I've been extremely happy with each of them:

• Stanley Proto J250G Proto 9-Inch Lock Ring Pliers - this is something I've wanted in the past, but I've never found a pair I'm really happy with. This pair seem very sturdy, and worked great.
• Knipex Tools 10 99 Ear Clamp Pliers - necessary to tighten the clamps used to secure the rubber boots.

Edit: LOL, Mike beat me to it.

 

i don't sorry. i tried looking for the invoice last night. call your dealer and explain to them what part you want and what year truck it is. They couldn't find it through the parts diagrams (via a vin search) but after about 10 minutes of stumbling they found it. Supposedly, those parts were listed as discontinued for my 04 but he found them from another application that was identical.

 

@joemauma had a 1st gen on 40s or 42s with a SC. Maybe he can chime in too.

I wouldnt mind a SC on the 4runner as my DD

 

During low vac/low throttle operation, theres a bypass valve that stays open. This keeps you out of boost, negligible parasitic loss and more efficient until you need the power. Need to get out of the way/over something real quick though? A quick stab of the pedal and its instant torque!

Edit: I can drive around all day without ever going into boost (driving like a grandma) if I want to, hard not to listen to that whine though! Mine was my daily for 8 years before I finally got other vehicles, but its still my daily about half the week.

 

Went from this...
To this...

 

It's the little things..


I need to do this too.

 

This showed up today! Excited about getting the higher output and I’m sure my AGM battery will appreciate it.

 

Wax on, wax off. She shines up nicely!

 

just picked up some gear oil today to do my trans, t-case, and diffs. got an appointment for some shop time on Thursday so i'll do it then.

 

very cool!

 

Trying to figure out if this noise is something going on with the internals of the rack or perhaps the inner tierod end.

 

I have the same noise. Im swapping my Itres and rack bushings this weekend.
Out of curiosity do you have Poly rack bushings?

 

Yes, Energy Suspension poly rack bushings.

The rank is OEM and was new about 40K miles ago. The iTREs came with the rack and the poly bushings were installed new at that time too.

 

My Hobart 120 is puny.
Who would be willing to weld my sliders on for me, in the S. Puget Sound area?
Olympia area would be better.

 

Right on good to know. I cant prove it but I believe the poly bushings put alot more stress on the oe itres and weaken them much more rapidly than oem rubber bushings. Especially with heavy offroading.

 

Granted a lot of steering/suspension clunks sound alike, I had a similar sounding one that happened after I over tightened the rack guide on the steering rack. But it also made the steering quite stiff. Backed it off a tad and it went away.

 

My guess would be the the rack guide bushing could use a tightening.

120 FCAW should be enough to burn the sliders on.