Milwaukee Tools

DON'T GET SCAMMED! MILWAUKEE M18 1/2 inch Impact Comparison!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8sMshvuXUU

I've been looking at the 1/2 impact Milwaukee. I miss my own board air, but not going through a York Compressor and fitting for my Taco, plenty of room for that set up under the hood of a FJ60. So having this guy with my 1/2 sockets will be a nice addition to the trail kit.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077H7JP1D
(Micheal J Fox Foundation is the charity I set up, just a few pennies but adds up).

 

Used my new 10" sliding miter saw today (all day) with an 8 Amp Hour XC battery. Still had two bars at the end of the day. Impressive. Cutting 1x5 and 1x6 window and door trim.

 

I can't remember which of the 18V impact drivers I have, but it rarely works on breaking lug nuts for me.

I love all my Milwaukee tools, and I have many (which is why I picked the Milwaukee driver in the first place). The 12V system is a great set of tools for 90% of "homeowner" tasks, and the 18V line will get it done for heavier/construction work.

The 18V driver is great for spinning nuts off and on when changing tires, but for breaking them loose initially I've had great results with one of these. Inexpensive and breaks down into a very compact set for storage.

$28 Xergur 23" Universal Extended Lug Wrench, 4 Way Tire Iron Nut Wrench Set with Storage Bag and Standard Sockets (17mm/19mm,21mm/23mm) for Heavy Duty Cross Wrench, Wheel Wrench

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RJHDCS1

 

sorry for the possibly obvious question, but you're sure you're using the right setting? Most of the drivers have several torque settings, and I know on mine, the lowest won't really break a properly torqued lug off, but the second setting breaks them off easy, and the third is just serious overkill.

also do you know which one of them you have? several of the m18 impacts have relatively low torque ratings. some are as low as like, 200 lb-ft, which still should be more than enough to break away lugs. but I can imagine if its one of the weaker ones, and maybe an old battery or some combination of factors, it could struggle.

 

It's one of the 1/2 drive models, but I bought it a number of years ago (before or right around the same time the "Fuel" line was coming out". I'm not even sure that all of the models listed in the earlier post existed when I bought mine.

It's entirely possible that I've only got the 450 ft-lb (600 ft-lb breaking torque) model though, I'd have to check the model number when I get home to find out. It's also had some issues with rusted-in 17mm bolts holding the trailer hitch onto my 2012 T4R.

There's no issue with the setting since it's an impact driver and not a drill. The adjustable clutch is a feature that the drills have which wouldn't work with the mechanism of an impact unit. None of the milwaukee impact drivers I've got (12V with a 1/4" hex drive, 18V with a 1/4" hex drive, and 18V with a 1/2" square drive) have any kind of adjustment other than the direction setting and trigger, but every one of the drills (total of 7 including 90-degree models, one hammer drill, and the set with the interchangeable heads) does have one; the 90-degree units have an electric "clutch" and the others pretty much all have mechanical adjustment.

 

I'm using a high-capacity battery, but it's a pre-"fuel" model so I'm not sure I'd get the full benefit from those batteries.

Out of all my Milwaukee tools, the only Fuel model I have is the 12v multi-job interchangeable set that was mentioned in the OP of this thread. Almost all of the rest are tools I've owned for 8-10 years, although the 1/2" drive impact may only be 4-5 years old.

 

I have the 1/2" high-torque as well, and with an eight (nine?) AH battery, I've pulled track pads off of an excavator. That thing has more spheres than any 1/2" pneumatic I've had, and most of the 3/4" as well.

 

so I'm not talking about the adjustable clutch like you have on a drill driver. The impact drivers, have at least 3 settings. some have 4, which they call a "drive control." but many of the models have 3 torque settings, and the button is usually on the base of the handle, on the front of the battery attachment part (basically right under your pinky finger when you're holding it) to cycle through the different levels.

 

Anyone want to take this off my hands? Make me an offer. It’s new. I live in SoCal.

 

I’ll pay shipping.

 

Anyone looking to buy a new battery?

 

None of the electric impact drivers I own has that feature. Is there a chance it got added at the "Fuel" line of tools? Like I said, all of mine are pre-Fuel and mostly close to 10 years old at this point.

Looking at the pictures of the model 2767-20, I'm pretty sure I see the feature you're talking about. I'm pretty sure that this is the one I have, which doesn't have any controls in that location (and it's also the 450 ft-lbf model, which could explain why it doesn't break lug nuts well)

https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tools-Wrenches-495-2663-20/dp/B0045WQRRY

 

trade for a charger?

 

That impact WRENCH should be breaking lug nuts no problem. My GEN 3 1/4” impact driver (166 ft lb) takes off the lugs on my Tacoma.

 

I am covered on the charger!

 

oh i see, yea that makes sense that its one of the lower tier models, but regardless, it should be breaking lugs off, they're only torqued to ~83 lb-ft, so even a lower torque model should be fine. If its a brushed motor, which it probably is if its almost 10 years old, then the brushes may need replacing.

yea, we're talking about impact wrenches/guns. not impact drivers. whatever, not the issue at hand, but you are right.

 

Lugs maybe (and that’s a big maybe unless you do it yourself) but after being on for a while the can require much for force to remove. Especially in areas where higher corrosion rates occur.

 

He might have a battery issue and not tool.

 

It wasn't the absolute top of the line when I bought it, but it wasn't "lower tier" at the time; the brushless motors might have been on the verge of coming out. I can break the lugs loose with it when I've put the tire on myself, it's when the wheels have been put on by a tire shop (and after several months of driving as well) that I have problems. I usually drive less than 9k miles per year, and that's not all in the Tacoma, so tire rotation is something that's more or less an annual event for me (still have tread left on Duratracs I bought 5 years ago that have been to Colorado/Moab once, Tahoe 2 or 3 times, and Vegas at least 6 times)