Ontario Truck Builds/Tech Discussion

I don't have experience with CT, but for Ken/Zuk he document every single step of the way as record keeping, he showed me how the bite marks are on them:



The shims he used to achieve proper backlash





I was worried I'd get the whine some folks seem to have at certain speed, but so far, none, it's as quiet as stock and the REM polishing means no break in, I just have to go back and change fluid and for quick inspection next week.

 

I've built a few axles and diff's over the years (little stuff like Samurai carriers and big stuff in loaders and haul trucks) - but the difference is in the details when comparing automotive with heavy equipment components. Always new things to learn, which is what makes spinning wrenches for a living so interesting... (photo of a diff out of a scraper at Stelco for comparison... )



On the floor the assembly sits about 3' tall - and that's the diff lock on the side of the carrier

 

That does look really nice... first time I had heard of REM polishing... Learn new things every day !

 

Very cool!

 

Those differentials are darn cool, REM polishing is really nice, I can't say enough about it.

 

Dose anyone know it a 2000 4runner rear diff will fit into an2nd gen tacoma.

 

I did a bit of searching and the Tacoma’s run a 8.4” ring gear and the 3rd Gen 4runners run a 8.25.

If both the 4unner and Tacoma have elockers then technically they are both 8” ring gears.

I just used east coasts gear supplies website to kinda go through it.

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/c-6...-gears-toyota-toyota-8-v6-turbo-e-locker.html

 

Thank you I've got a lead in a 2000 4 runner locking rear diff. $300. Thinking about using it for a regear.

edit: his diff turned out to be a front. lol yea the look exactly the same..

I can get one at a junk yard but too cheep to spend the 600 to 1k on it, that can be spent on other things....

 

I’m assuming the 2000’s 4runners are a 4.10 or 4.56?

 

373,391,410 and 430
got that from car-part.com

 

4.30 on 35’s wouldn’t be too bad. Generally the consensus is 4.56 for manuals and 4.88’s for autos for 35” tores.

 

complements of @3JOH22A its a pretty cool diagram

 

Any ideas on how to straighten this out.

 

Hammer and heat! May need to reinforce it afterwards too. Skids doing their job.

 

I need to convince myself to slow down on the rig.

FJ t-case not even finished and I want the flat bed.

JUST STAPH WES. JUST STAPJHHHJHHH

 

I want one of thoes enclosed canopy's that mount to the frame, no flatbed. And I want both sides to open gull wing style, makes more seance for what I do with the truck daily. no more having to crawl in to get things just access from the sides which is perfect for use short people.
I know what your saying about slowing down. This lock down I've done more than what I expected to do this year.
I agree I have to slow down too......

 

more skid plate......
the farm jack of whatever it is got stuck in the up position..lol.
but all truned out well, and yes @tacoma16 its has to be reinforced...

 

Pros and cons to the flatbed. It’s so wide and long which blows. There are smaller ones.

are you talking about a similar canopy to what I have?

even having windoors makes such a huge difference.


The lockdown has been brutal for modding. Too much time to research and buy stuff. Still recovering from the repairs and what not from last year.

 

I tried that jacking method before on a pretty bad bent skid. Wouldn’t budge. Lifted the vehicle up lol. 5lb sledge ended doing the trick. Wasn’t pretty…..

 

exactly, but insteed of mounting it to a flatbed platform, it will have a floor that mounts directly to the frame and it will be made from steel maybe the bones of it will be 1/8" square tube and skinned with something like 16ga. the floor can be 12ga.
its just a dream right now.