JBL Premium Upgrade. Replacing speakers and subwoofer.

Thanks. Super achey and fatigued. 50 degrees outside, shorts and t-shirt, I'll try to roll on some butyl and gonna of sweat just drop off my head and my shirt is wet. Try to eat, drink fluids, hot shower and back to bed. One thing I learned is instacart and door dash keep sending hot chicks. I might be lazy, throw a seat and mud guard and just drive it around for a while.

 

Id keep ordering from Instacart and Door dash, one of them might make you feel better!!!!!

 

JBL Dash Speaker / Tweeter Connector

This seems to be the connector.

Toyota Connector : 10859

$13 RED WOLF 2 Pin Car Dash Tweeter Speaker Wiring Harness Adapter Compatible with Toyota Tacoma 2021-2023, Highlander Hybrid 2008-2017 for Aftermarket JBL Dash Tweeters Audio Wire Cable Plug Connector

Amazon - Red Wolf

Crutchfield

I gave up on the no-cut PnP. I went ahead and just cut off the connector from the Factory JBL Tweeter.

 

So, the link posted from Amazon on the tweeter connector is the actual missing link to making the upgraded speakers PnP?

Thanks!

 

I'm assuming it should be the correct one. Hard to tell.

 

Tesa Tape all the things!
Took the sub apart again. Wrapped the connectors with open cell foam and wrapped it in TESA TAPE! Throw some on the door panels for controls and every v-clip I pulled off. Throw some butyl around. Hope I went far enough to the sides. Should I take it out further?

 

Looks good. Should def prevent rattles

 

So I've been plucking away at this thing from 9pm-2am last night. Went back out at 8am until just now. It's never ending. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. Focusing too much on rolling the pattern out. Then foil taping over it if I break it. Then foil taping all the seams just because. I need to add a disclaimer to the first post...

If you're OCD, just return all the shit and don't even try. Unless someone has laser pre-cut templates.

 

Evening

Sorry about the COVID. Gotta suck. Killer dog.

i don’t know if you know about it, or it is too late but Hush Mat has some great product already fitted and ready to go.

https://hushmat.com/index.php?dispatch=sdc.catalog&year=2019&make=76&model=1037

I may recommend checking into swapping the amp also. I don’t know much about the amp in the vehicle know, but that Fosgate will go to 2ohm. You want an amp to take advantage of that if you are looking for base, or run a crossover , or even better run 2 subs and bridge them

 

So Hushmat is pre-cut to your specific vehicle? I didn't see any mention of it pre-cut. Details state universal fitment and no mention of it cut. Picture shows it folded in full sheets. I figured maybe going by model numbers would show it for specific vehicles, but search showed it also fit older model Chevy Colorados. I know that the factory amp impedance is 2Ω for the subwoofer. Wanted to try to keep things looking factory and not go for another box. That would put my wallet into a whole new world of hurt. I'm big on buy once, cry once but the JBL is a curveball. So I'm gonna half-ass, cheap ass this one and hope it sounds good enough.

Some more progress today. No one said how sore I'd be. Maybe it's just the Covid dragging out.

1. Whoever said it only took a couple hours to do this, you're a fucking liar. You're not cool. You're not impressing anyone. You're own mother hates you.
2. If you're OCD, just stop. Don't even return the stuff to Amazon. Just take it as a loss and give up.

This asshole saying let's do this whole project. Not helping like he said he would. Just lounged up chillin'.

Maybe I was a bit extra to foil tape every edge it meets and any holes that got poked. Guess I lost a lot of time doing just that. Maybe it's not necessary at all. But in my mind, if it's to lessen vibrations the foil tape will seal out the tinier vibrations!

This stuff is lame. Very soft. It shreds just from weight on it and the adhesive is done once it touches something. There is no reapplying it.

So I started shaking these around. I heard the modules rattle ever so slightly. So I Tesa taped that too. Might as well while I'm in for the night and watching TV. Also Tesa taped the air ducts that run down and under the seat. Just where they connect. You know why? I shook it and it made a noise.

 

You sir are going to have the heaviest Tacoma on the planet.

 

Am I overdoing it? First time sound dampening a vehicle. I'm just winging it. Probably offset the weight by not putting everything back in because I don't know where it goes. Lol.

Also debating on the roof. Should I do it? Ughhhh.

 

Hi,

Still sorry about the COVID. I would be in bed crying to the wife.

I would do the roof. It is just sheet metal with not much support other than a few cross bows and a few contours. Plus may reduce wind noise.

If interested, there is a roof kit. It looks like it is universal but if you scroll down it will show the selected vehicle is the 2019 Tacoma. Like you said that is extra cost though.

 

Do your thing man, I’m just curious how your mileage is affected. Definitely adjust your towing capacity in your head, but it’s not like anybody really uses but like half anyway.

I’d say you’ve already gone full retard so ya gotta do the roof too or you’re a quitter... and the B pillars just because that’s gonna be a total bitch.

When you have a heart attack and run into the woods never to be seen again, the future times people that find you in 1000 years will call you Tacoma Man because you’ll be preserved like those dinosaurs that got stuck in the tar pits.

 

The price is pretty nuts. I get it's convenience and all. But it's like 4x more.
What I have in material:

2 - Noico 80 Mil - 36 sq/ft
3 - 315 Mil Closed Foam - 16 sq/ft
2 - Noico 80 Mil - 18 sq/ft
1 - 118 Mil Closed Foam - 16 sq/ft

Which should cover everything from the firewall, floors, back wall, doors and ceiling. All around $300 + the roller. That alone is the roof kit. Wish it wasn't so much. Lol.

 

I dont know if you are overdoing it but you are doing it right. I started on mine sunday by running amp wires and new speaker wire, changing the head unit and adding noico to the doors. hadnt gotten around to swapping out my speakers yet but the Kenwood radio and noico really woke up the factory speakers. Once i decide on the amp, i'll be adding that and my Hertz components. I'll start a write up soon once i get some free time.

Your thread has been inspiring

 

@GRNT4R Nice! So are you going to use a PAC AMP Pro? I'm not familiar with much audio. Or is that running all new wire for the amp and speakers?

Got the

$55 GX328 3-1/2" Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers

GX328's in. I ended up cutting more from the dash plastics on the passenger side and removed a tab from the speaker. Took a bit more trying to fit the speakers. Once I cut off enough material, I added Tesa Tape to where I cut. I put spacers /washers on the driver's side to lower the front for clearance. I did remove the metal tabs on both sides towards the front then cut those parts off. Maybe the

$60 GX302 3-1/2" 75W 2-Way GX Series Coaxial Car Audio Loudspeakers

GX302 is a different size than the GX328 or there are slight variances in manufacturing Tacoma wise. Like the backwall insulation. Some have the nice black liner. Mine had the crap fabric blend.


More Tesa Tape.

Driver and passenger done. Now the backwall. Beginning to worry where all the screws go when I put things back in...

 

@bonifacio the wire is for some hertz components I will add to the front doors and probably a JL audio or Audio control amp going under the front seat. The front speakers wire will have a crossover mounted to the door panel wires directly to the amp. Then I will come off the crossovers and go to the tweeter and 6.5 in the lower door. I’ll use a quick disconnect in case the door or window ever has to be serviced, it will just look like another car plug except color coded so they know which plug goes for which speaker. No PAC Amp Pro. The Kenwood unit has front rear and sub preouts so I ran an RCA for the front stage and another that will be used for the sub. The rear speakers will remain stock and run off deck power just for rear fill.

 

Note to self: buy a bunch of zip lock bags to put screws, etc. in and label each bag where they go.

 

what I typically do is take painters tape and tape the screw next to where it will need to go back at. Some times I put the stew back in its location after the panel is removed