JBL Premium Upgrade. Replacing speakers and subwoofer.

I saw a thread somewhere in the audio and video forum but it's kind of a science/physics proposition that may not be worth the effort from what i remember.

 

For bridging is that for when a 2 ohm subwoofer isn't available or is there another benefit?

 

@bonifacio what's your total man hours into this ? you have patient and skills bro as does your dach !

 

Way too many hours. I don't even want to think about it. Always takes me a lot more than it should. Like a ridiculous amount. Some nights I'd stand outside over night.

 

lower resistance so in theory louder.

Summary

If the amplifier is set to 2.83V, the 4 ohm speaker will draw 2 watts of power from the amplifier while an 8 ohm speaker draws 1 watt. (Power = Voltage2/resistance. So, 2.832= 8. 8/8ohms = 1 watt.) This potentially gives the 4 ohm speaker a +3dB SPL advantage over the 8 ohm speaker for a given input level.

Deep dive

https://www.audioholics.com/loudspeaker-design/loudspeaker-sensitivity

 

I guess I'm not catching it. So comparing a 2 ohm sub to a bridged 4 ohm sub to 2.
Is there an advantage of the bridged sub or is the same 2 ohm?

 

I think it’s the same

 

So it's mainly if you prefer a subwoofer but it's only offered in 4ohm. Bridging it will make it 2ohm. Ahhhh.

So anyway, if I was a superhero I would be Bad Things Always Happen to Me and Distracted Man. This is just going way off course...

Still didn't finish matting the rear wall. I'm just pushing it off for some reason. It's just not right to finish something. Gotta have a bunch of unfinished projects right?
Took me almost 2 years to get the battery hold down and Power Tray in. Didn't finish hooking it up. For the Tie Down, I had to buy a regular tie down bolt. Cut the bolt and used a die to take the threads down farther and painted it.

Wanted to make a Hexaleaf.

Then my TV died and got stuck in a boot loop. Took it apart and sliced my finger open. Tried another outlet and it works fine. Somehow the outlet it's been using for the last 2 years isn't putting out enough power. ?!?

Working on the wiring for the light bar.

I'm way off course. Womp womp.

Ah, I know. So now the driver's side might have that rattle and with the amount of Tesa Tape and foam I added, it didn't get rid of it. Maybe I'm just hearing it. I have no idea. I think rattle chasing is getting to me.

At first I thought maybe the rattle was coming from the window lock button. I tried to open it, but even after releasing the tabs, the button itself was stuck to the PCB. I gave up. When I put it back the Driver Side Window stopped working. I noticed that it would only click up once, but wouldn't physically do the second click for the auto close. Passenger side still worked fine. Got out the endoscope and found if the switch isn't centered it locks the finger switch. So I slid it back to the center and it worked again.

 

Well this happened.


It's the one from CTH.
https://cartrimhome.com/head-unit-for-Tacoma-2016

I'll report back with how it works. So far everything seems great. Scored it for $330. Ended up having to take out the Germes RFCC. Doesn't work with it. So I lose the Mode buttom for front/rear camera, but the head unit has it built it, I just tap the icons.
Sound wise, I think I heard things I haven't heard before. Only got to test it quick with Youtube.
Re-formatting my USB Drive and we'll see.

I want to grab the oem microphone and oem gps adapters. Then everything will be hooked up.

 

I just did the sound deadener and the difference is amazing! Louder better bass and quieter in the truck driving normally. I actually wrapped some Of the noico on both switches in the doors and the rattle went away. Listen to the Mandolorian sound track and drive yourself crazy running down rattles. LOL.

 

When you say sides, where it contacts the door or where on the switched exactly. The driver side one is driving me nuts!

 

I put it on the outside of the plastic “socket” that the switch pops into. And in the gap on the front of the switch where it bends down towards the floor.

 

so tempting on upgrading my stock jbl"s with this setup... but im pretty sure im gonna have someone sound deaden it and not do it myself...

 

its really easy. Just takes time.

 

i know its easy... more afraid of what my lower back gonna feel like afterwards... swapping out speakers and subs is pretty simple... tearing out the interior to sound deaden is what i dont want to do myself...

 

I just did the back wall and the doors. The floor won’t make a huge difference for the effort involved. Not a good value proposition for me.

 

yeah... good point...i can probably skip the floor...

 

I bridged the sub last year in the jbl system with an aftermarket sub. Sounds better actually has bass. Gonna swap the front speakers out for the jbl and see how they are.

 

Installing a AR rack in the truck? Love it.

 

I grabbed one of the MesoCustoms Hexracks. Just didn't get around to finding a good mount yet. Waiting on some other things I ordered.