Post Up Pictures Of Your Stereo Upgrades!!

I'll say again... for something to consider.

The Oz Audio woofers i have require very little airspace and hit very low. I've got 4 in a shared sealed box tuned at 50hz.

And yes... head unit can make a world of difference. I started with a JVC and when I made the swap to Sony I picked up 3db on that change alone. Its the difference in pre-out voltage... went from 2v to 5v.

 

2020 TRD 8" non-JBL, Could have done a cleaner install but I was physically exhausted and just wanted to get it done with. Boo Boo'd and drilled 2 xtra holes in the rear passenger seat back bin "left side" but no one can see that with the sub box in place. I was to burnt out to take apart the back seat storage bin plastics, drilled holes with bin in place and finally on the 3rd hole I drilled the "bottom" of the bin and with a wire I was able too fish my sub wires thru. Learned a lot from TW members and from my mistakes. Kicker Key amplifiers and JL entry line(C1) front 6x9 components, rear 6-1/2"(?) and Stealthbox(very snug fit)


tt add an amp harness w/splice in for input to subwoofer amp, amp rack under passenger seat. I installed front(1-1/4")/back(1-3/8") seat jackers to clear the passenger under seat bar. A 1" back spacer did not have enough clearance between the under seat bar/amp. You might ask me if a 1-1/8" or 1-1/4" would have clearance but let me tell you... Man, I had a HELL of a time getting the seat lined up to reinstall the 4 bolts(being a Newbie at this). You have to line up the seat and rack, it was slipping sliding, off center, yada yada yada
I was contemplating the OEM+ Ref. with dedicated amp. In the end I decided to go with a 10" subwoofer. I believe a subwoofer adjuster knob is a must have, installed as OEMDaniel showed how in Jesse Rizo yt transferring the system from his '18 to '20.

 

Well here's what I ended up doing. It's a sealed box measuring 48"x9.75"x6" for a pair of 8" woofers. It should be just a hair over one cubic foot in volume. Next step is stuffing with poly-fill, carpeting, and mounting the woofers. Hands down the hardest bit was creating and sealing the seatbelt notch, especially because I only have a jig saw and not a real table saw.

My hope is that two lesser 8" woofers (Comp Cs) will push more air, and therefore be louder, than the single 8" Comp R. We'll see tomorrow. This might be a nice option for folks who want to keep their child seatbelt latches intact.

 

Oh nice! Sound good?

So I went ahead and installed a Dayton DSP 408. Took my time rewiring and installing it, and spent a few hours this morning tuning it up.

Spent a good deal of time getting my L and R channels to match and was pretty happy with the initial results.

Finally put some music on, and just listening at normal levels my sub cut out.

After poking around it seems a Voice Coil went out on the sub!!!

Unsure why it happened. Really scratching my head on this one as I never touched the amp settings and if anything I cut signal to it, and might have skipped through like 3-4 tracks then nothing. Kinda pissed.

ill have to see what NVX will do..



I used leftover MDF and simply screwed through the carpet into it; worked like a charm.


Here my Fronts and Rears L/R





you can see how insane it was before:



and a full sweep -- I need to work on the transition between 200 and 800Hz; but overall much better

 

Already got an RMA and return label for the NVX subwoofer; hopefully they exchange it without much hassle!

meanwhile, the 20year old MCM isn't awful, just quite as loud as I've gotten used to.

 

After I fiddled with the crossover and slope settings this morning, I'm pretty happy with them. I could easily overwhelm the Comp R...lots more headroom with the pair of 8s, which is what I wanted. I've got some ID components going in next and then I think I'll be done for a while. I'm still using the Kicker 5 channel, which seems to have plenty of juice for it all.

How easy was the Dayton to tune?

 

I still have yet to get my replacement from NVX. I went ahead and did a chargeback and I'm now debating between the Kicker 2021 Comp R and the Phoenix Gold SX18S4.

In the meantime I got the doors and rear wall dynamatted.

The Dayton is easy enough to tune. Set the timing and crossovers, then basically autotuned each channel using REW. I used a house curve that many suggest [basically flat from 100-20K], but it left the highs sooooo harsh and was missing lows.

It takes some time, but it's pretty simple to record a sweep, tell REW to set your EQ for you based on the measured curve and curve you want, and then plug those into each channel.

I actually measured my Mazda Cx5 which has a semi-decent Bose system so I was curious how their curve looked. It's flat, but not horizontal.

So I tuned it closer to that curve and I'm much happier.



red is the mazda, green is the truck.

 

I went with the Kicker Comp R.

I had to re-drill my mount holes which was annoying, but it sounds pretty good so far. Definitely an improvement over my free 20yo MCM sub, and the NVX.

Now to EQ the sub and just enjoy.



Also trying out using 1.5" layered cotton as insulation vs. polyfill. Less chance of self-ejecting at least. I just lined the inner diameter with it.

 

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