Homebuilt Camper Thread!

Haha thanks brother! Hopefully I can get this completely dialed in when I get the other struts. Then it's on to the roof, canvas and panels. I think I might have the canvas go all the way around, and zip off both sides in the front. Not sure yet, but that's gonna prob be the hardest part. At least I don't have to make any crazy angles. Also going to sew in velcro so I can input cold weather lining if needed.

 

I think you've nailed it. If I had the resources I would have done the tent. I can sew, just can't buy the machine. I think the singer heavy duty can handle it but it's almost two hundo. I need a 200-400mm lens first. Ahahahahahaha.
Again nice work and I'm standing by to see it finished. Going to be epic.
Zim

 

Will your new struts change your mechanism at all?

I think my ceiling height will only be 6’1” or so with the 35.5” struts. Where did you order your 40’s from?

 

The height right now is 27.5 from top to bottom of extrusion. That's with the current 35.43 in suspra struts. Just gotta set them up in better alignment and should have no problem.
These are the ones I'm going to get.

Suspa C16-15952 35.43" Gas Prop/Strut - Set of Two - Force is 40 lbs Per Prop/Strut - Force is 80 lbs Per Pair

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012HGQM7O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_APMQSVYBT5N6ZDY5TBQB?_encoding=UTF8

With bed height, frame and extrusion, I should have roughly 73-74 inches if I had to guess.

 

That’s my math too. Just was debating putting 40 inchers on! Didn’t know where to buy them.

 

Here are the ones FWC uses.

20lbs 40" https://shop.suspa.com/c16-31895a-gas-spring-p5207.aspx

30lbs 40" https://shop.suspa.com/c16-31896a-gas-spring-p5209.aspx

40lbs 40" https://shop.suspa.com/c16-32561-gas-spring-p5201.aspx

50lbs 40" https://shop.suspa.com/c16-32615-gas-spring-p5351.aspx

60lbs 40" https://shop.suspa.com/c16-34442gas-spring-p5352.aspx

 

I just reread all this and now realize you never had 40” struts. Duh!

 

Do you think the 40" would be more beneficial? At this point right now I feel the 35.43 are sufficient and I don't need them to extend more, as I feel it might take away from the ability to help with lifting. Could be wrong, we're all learning here lol

 

I'm not sure... That's what I'm debating before I jump into finalizing my mechanism. I think 6'1" is great standing room for most people, but I'm 6'5" haha. My issue with the 40" struts is they are twice as expensive, harder to come by, only come in lighter weights, and I don't have them in hand at the moment. I want to use my camper for a trip in 3-4 weeks and can't really wait anymore.

I don't see it taking away from the ability to help lift it though. I'm curious how my 80# struts will be. My roof feels *heavy* with the panels on it.

I think I'm going to go with the cheaper, smaller struts (36"). I'm not going to be doing anything but changing clothes or pulling shoes on standing in the camper anyways.

 

I'm at least one year out from tackling this project so bravo to you guys for working out the kinks in the meantime. I Really want a full pop top instead of a wedge. Keep up the good work fellas

 

Dang! the price on these is way up from the $35 listed. I just got the 80lbs on and yup, way too strong.

 

BUT, it sturdied it up a lot. It acts as limiting straps on all 4 corners. Confident that will be the case with lesser struts too. Time to move onto the tent while I wait for the new struts. Hoping to get the thing on the truck next week.

 

What did you end up doing for the lifting mech?

 

Well, waiting on the 40lb struts now. So I guess it's time to gather the canvas, sewing machine and all the material. This is going to be the hardest part. Any words of wisdom lol?

 

Hi, I'm still in the research and planning phase of my build but I'd like to do a full pop up as well, using a replica FWC lifting system.
I'm thinking of using aluminum composite panels reinforced with 1/2" aluminum angle for the front and rear walls.
I think having the gas struts on the front and rear (instead of sides) is ideal too.

This video shows the FWC lifting system starting at 6:03
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hPqMVQvzCM&t=453s

This shows the AT Overland lifting system starting at 7:55
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t9_UUbelShE&t=506s

The ideal way to research this is probably to visit FWC in Woodland, CA
I'm in the bay area but is there anyone closer that wants to do some undercover intel and take some videos at their showroom?
They're located here:
https://www.google.com/maps/place/F...3df47e7ff2c63!8m2!3d38.6815124!4d-121.7465003

 

dude we are in the same boat. Friend is coming over Monday/Tuesday to help me measure and get it started. He does a bit of sewing so I’ll pass along what I learn!

hmmm the aluminum composite could work. I checked a FWC out at Mule here, just out of curiosity. I think you’d be better off finding someone in the Bay Area who has a camper and checking it out in person. I’ve always been confused how these FWC panels work for lifting. I don’t understand where it gets it’s stiffness from! Is it just the tent? Otherwise it would just be like a house of cards. Maybe one of the panels butts leans in the floor support?

 

I own a sewing business (we make bicycle bags) so I think that will be the easiest part for me.
Sewing large pieces of fabric needs a lot of space to cut and measure and that part will take a long time. We print the patterns using a large format printer so we don't need to measure and it's more accurate.
This website prints large patterns for fairly cheap: https://pdfplotting.com/product/bw-pattern-printing/

Managing fabric in the sewing machine is also a challenge. You need to be intentional about how you roll up the fabric to fit through the machine, without introducing wrinkles or folds in the stitch. A home sewing machine has a small 'throat', the area where the rolled up fabric fits through. It makes it harder. If you can access an industrial sewing machined, the throat is much larger

I believe FWC uses 10oz. VCP fabric, which is much stiffer than the 600D nylon/polyester most people are using in the ripcord thread.

With the FWC lifting mechanism, maybe the gas struts in the same plane as the walls helps the 'house of cards' from toppling over?

Gotta see one in person

 

Thanks for the tips! We’re planning on doing 4 sections of our square pop up tent. One for each side, then stitching together with maybe a cap over the stitch. TBD.

I think the struts on the same plan don’t add any stiffness at 30-40lbs. They are on ball-end studs and move just like a tie rod. They helped mine quite a bit putting them on the opposing side.

 

Oh yes, i see now. I think you're onto something with the panel butting up against the floor.

Some aluminum angle bracing against the floor and roof extrusions could work well.

 

All,

Serious message alert! If you plan on doing the full pop up, or even the wedge, ensure you use 6mm aluminum composite panels or thicker. After getting the lift mechanism finally completed and about to order items for canvas, I did another fit check, and when pushing down on the front side, the mechanism contacted the panel. No big deal I thought. But after further investigation, the weight had pushed down the acm enough to create a gap between it and the extrusion. Also, this really made me think how is this going to support any weight at all?!?. So, stripped everything back off and currently looking for a solution. Back to basics yall. At least I've done this nearly 3 times now haha. Jesus!

BTW I was using 3mm which is what is recommended. Not saying it's wrong, but definitely do not feel it being supportive enough, especially since it bent just from the mechanism sitting on it. Damn damn damn