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Oil filter housing issue

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016-2023)' started by bill7549, May 17, 2021.

  1. May 17, 2021 at 11:02 AM
    #1
    bill7549

    bill7549 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've had an irritating issue with the oil filter housing. I initially bought the aluminum housing but after seating the O rings and torquing down to 18lbs like recommended, it was spitting oil around the base. I bought a new filter and reinstalled the OEM plastic housing with new O rings, covered them with oil as recommended and again torqued down. I've got a video but can't get it to upload. I did include a pic and you can see the bubble along the flat area where the housing meets the engine mount. Occurs about every 30 sec. Does anyone have any recommendations? I'm thinking going with the Baxter setup but damn, this shouldn't be that hard. Thanks in advance.
    IMG_F587C2AADF64-1.jpg
     
  2. May 17, 2021 at 12:32 PM
    #2
    pinochle

    pinochle GC8 Fanatic

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    Are you putting the o-ring in the correct spot?
     
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  3. May 17, 2021 at 12:33 PM
    #3
    mattleg

    mattleg Well-Known Member

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    Which groove are you placing the o-ring?
     
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  4. May 17, 2021 at 12:40 PM
    #4
    Hafaday

    Hafaday Well-Known Member

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  5. May 17, 2021 at 12:41 PM
    #5
    bill7549

    bill7549 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes, O ring is in the correct spot. It's going into the groove right below the threads. Here's a pic of the one installed on the aluminum housing that leaked worse than the OEM plastic housing.
    IMG_1645.HEIC.jpg
     
  6. May 17, 2021 at 12:42 PM
    #6
    16TacomaSport

    16TacomaSport Well-Known Member

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    I havnt had any active leaking out. I just did my first oil change on my truck last week at 2500miles so it was still the factory setup. I noticed my housing was a little wet and there was one droplet sitting there and the skidplate had a small amount on it and there was some around from being blown around when driving. I am still getting the same weeping of oil on my housing like it did from the factory with all new gaskets. Not sure if this is normal with these trucks as this was the first DIY oil change I have done on one of these. if thats the case they dont seem to seal very well
     
  7. May 17, 2021 at 12:47 PM
    #7
    Arries289

    Arries289 Yo!

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    Not sure where 18 ft/lbs is on your truck, but I go until the housing has bottomed completely. Have you checked the housing (truck side) itself to make sure there is no damage or debris where the o-rings seal?
     
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  8. May 17, 2021 at 12:47 PM
    #8
    bill7549

    bill7549 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That may be happening then with this plastic housing. Dealership did the other oil changes and this was the first time I changed it. If it doesn't leak all over the skid plate like the aluminum housing did, it's possible it did the same then with Toyota replacing the oil.
     
  9. May 17, 2021 at 12:48 PM
    #9
    malatx

    malatx Well-Known Member

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    try Baxter, their adaptor is very well made, you will have no o-rings to worry about, each time you change a spin-on, you isolate the problem to just the spin-on, so if there's a leak, just get another spin-on.
     
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  10. May 17, 2021 at 12:49 PM
    #10
    Hafaday

    Hafaday Well-Known Member

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    OP..

    My next look would be at the inside of the filter housing it’s self if both the factory plastic and aftermarket are leaking. Possibly something in the threads or the filter housing is jacked up.

    Just a thought.
     
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  11. May 17, 2021 at 12:49 PM
    #11
    bill7549

    bill7549 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I looked to see when I switched back to the plastic housing and didn't see any damage and there certainly wasn't debris. I cleaned that thing thoroughly.
     
  12. May 17, 2021 at 12:51 PM
    #12
    bill7549

    bill7549 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    That will probably be my next stop. I'll check it for the next couple of days and if it's leaking more than just a drop a day or so, I'll pull the trigger on the Baxter. One question about it though. When taking the spin off filter off, will it try to pull the Baxter rig off too, or at least loosen it?
     
  13. May 17, 2021 at 12:54 PM
    #13
    malatx

    malatx Well-Known Member

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    nope, when you install the Baxter, you torque the adaptor to 40 foot pound. spin on filter should be tighten to just 10-15 foot pound, there's no chance you'll loosen the adaptor, unless you over tighten the spin-on more than 40 foot pound
     
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  14. May 17, 2021 at 12:57 PM
    #14
    Mark77

    Mark77 Well-Known Member

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    That baxter product is awesome. I never heard of it till now. Id consider that.
     
  15. May 17, 2021 at 1:17 PM
    #15
    kmorgan3

    kmorgan3 Redside Electric, LLC | VLEDS

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    It's stamped on the housing. Big characters right here:
    E6ECD51E-0C6B-4116-92CD-9A63D8363A6F.jpg

    OP your housings are getting warped somehow. It might have something to do with your wrench tool or the threads on the truck itself.
     
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  16. May 17, 2021 at 3:17 PM
    #16
    Taco_mike73

    Taco_mike73 Well-Known Member

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    Use a good cap wrench that engaged the flutes and the tabs on the filter like the motiveX cap wrench to avoid damaging the cap.
    Put the o ring in the right spot.
    I used that when i did my oil change at 5000 miles. I hand tightened it till it bottomed in the housing then just tighten it a little bit more with the wrench and ratchet. No leaks and I was concerned about that.
     
  17. May 17, 2021 at 3:54 PM
    #17
    Blockhead

    Blockhead Well-Known Member

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    This oil filter setup is one thing I really hate about our 3rd gens. 2nd gen oil changes were a breeze with the top mount filter location and a Fumoto valve...
     
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  18. May 17, 2021 at 3:57 PM
    #18
    Taco_mike73

    Taco_mike73 Well-Known Member

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    I loved the fumoto valve. I had one on my Liberty CRD. I really want to put one on the Tacoma but not sure how the dealership will handle it when it goes in for the Toyota Care maintenance services. I will probably put it on after the last oil change they do.
     
  19. Jan 30, 2023 at 2:20 PM
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    Desertdogs

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    Okay….. I am perplexed.

    Replaced plastic with aluminum OEM, after 5000 miles it leaked. Checked it, re-installed, leaked again after a few hundred.

    Replaced with original plastic one. I use factory oil filters and o-rings from the dealer. Everything looks good, checked threads, o-ring placement, warpage on block. All looked good.

    However, now after 3000 miles, it’s leaked again.

    2 questions:

    A) will cold starts, with 15+ minutes of warm, in 15°F weather, affect the sealing?

    B) I have used a OEM engine block heater to get it warm (2-3 hours) before starting at home. Anyway this could be a contributor?

    Help!! 35 years of owning Toyota trucks and none have ever leaked.
     
  20. Jan 30, 2023 at 2:36 PM
    #20
    na8rboy

    na8rboy 18 DCLB Sport Cement

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    Is the Aluminum one you bought OEM, or aftermarket?
     
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