Wedge camper build questions...

Hey y'all! Long time listener, first time caller at TW. I'm lookin at spending my Summer living out of my 2011 long bed and I'm thinking about building a wedge style camper like this one below:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/how-to-diy-wedge-camper.604686/

Sort of based off of the wedge design that you see from GFC and other companies.

Here's my thoughts: I want to make it as cost effective as possible, so rather than using 8020 extrusion I was thinking about going all steel and basically building a lumber rack frame with square tubing, along with some other cuts to the design. My buddy who agreed to help me with the welding threw out the idea of using aluminum tubing, since we wouldn't have to powder coat it to protect it from rusting overtime like with steel. The idea is that we'd save the same money on powder coating that we spend on the aluminum. The thing is that we're not engineers and don't want to royally f this up, so to any engineer and Tacoma folks out there, here are my questions!

- Can we make aluminum tubing work for a build like this, and what size tubing would be the go to?
- What things should we look out for with a build like this?
- Any effective alternatives to protecting the steel that aren't as effective as powder coating?
- any recommendations for helping to keep the costs relatively low but still have a relatively strong build?
- If YOU had to pick a type of material to use for this (without emptying wallets) what route would you go and why?

 

@Ripcord is on here, whose thread you link.

As for your questions, here are my armchair engineer responses:

• Aluminum tubing would work fine. It has a lower fatigue life, but most people with these campers are probably unlikely to see failures. Do you know how to TIG weld aluminum?
• Proper priming & painting will be fine in lieu of powdercoating. You could also explore other coatings like blueing and such.
• To keep costs low in these times of supply shortages and high prices, shopping around and piecing together your supplies will likely have you spending summer 2025 in your truck, not this year. Good luck saving money right now.
• For cheapest materials, building your own panels from corrugated cardboard and fiberglass is going to be the cheapest.

My dad was doing some tests with 8020 samples and about to build his own, but I found him a second-hand Leentu camper for $3000 delivered from 4 hours away. I recommend picking up a used camper and not bother buying your own.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPzYKhpnaWY/

 

Thanks ripcord! Yep my friend does know how to TIG… do you have a recommendation for what size tubing you think would work out for aluminum?

 

• Can we make aluminum tubing work for a build like this, and what size tubing would be the go to?
  • Is it possible? yes. Is it better for DIY? I think not.
  • The catch with aluminum is that its strength is typically very sensitive to heat treatment. When you weld it, you loose heat treated properties near the welds. This requires either over building or heat treatment after welding. Most aluminum tubing I have seen is 6XXX series - this is not good for welding and then using on a vehicle.
  • Aluminum also does corrode readily, but the oxide layer is more stable so it doesn't disintegrate very fast. Depending on the alloy and application this can still lead to premature failures (probably on the order of many years for a camper)
• Any effective alternatives to protecting the steel that aren't as effective as powder coating? (I assume you mean less expensive than powder coat)
  • Powder coating probably isn't as expensive as you think it is. I'd guess about $200. I think steel and powder coat will be cheaper than aluminum. And it will be faster, easier, and longer lasting. It's probably a good value. Also consider that powder coat would be a small fraction of the total build cost - don't get stopped up here.
  • The best, cheap alternative is rattle can spray paint. Start with clean steel, do good prep/clean, rattle can primer, rattle can top coat. You may get scratches or wear over time, but you can just touch up as needed. Quick estimate here: you might use 3-5 cans of primer and 3-5 cans of top coat. That's maybe $75 in paint and $20-30 in misc (plastic and tape). And it will take a long time to paint. You need several coats and you need to move the thing around to paint all the sides. Count on it taking several days - much more effort than you would guess unless you've done it before.
• any recommendations for helping to keep the costs relatively low but still have a relatively strong build?
  • Cheapest: buy a used high rise camper shell, build a wood bed with storage underneath. Get out and enjoy sooner.
  • Cheaper, still a project: build your own shell, high roof, skip the folding wedge and tent.
  • Almost there: camper shell and RTT (I would rather have bed inside camper shell and skip RTT)
• Consider buying, using, reselling something. If this is for a summer, then you're reselling pretty quick. You aren't on the hook for the whole purchase price, just the difference from your resell price. You could buy used and sell for close to what you bought.
• If you enjoy building and want to take it on as a hobby: keep it simple. Add up costs (sometimes in detail) and compare options before making decisions. You can't hit a target (in this case low cost) without carefully tracking it. You can start with the Ripcord spreadsheet as an example, but that's a very refined final product not a work in progress. Also try some faster, cruder explorations to help scope ideas before you spend too much time on them.
  • EX of exploring costs: sketch out the frame, count up the approximate length of frame tube, look at cost per foot of material options. Go fast and easy here: it's approximately 6' long by 5' wide and 2' high so the main frame is 4X6' and 3X5' and 4x2'= 47 feet round it to 50 feet. You can figure out Al versus Steel costs in less than 20 minutes this way.
  • EX of saving cost: side doors require lots of extra hardware (cost) and build time. You could use fixed panels instead. I would use
    $8 3M VHB 100x200mm~ (4" X8") Double Sided Foam Adhesive Sheet Tape 5952 Automotive Mounting Industrial Grade Very High Bond 5952 (1 Sheets 100x200mm)
    3M VHB tape to semi-permanently seal aluminum sheet metal panels on the sides and front. (note, Ripcord design relies on the seals to conform to the frame. You would either need to use flat sides or slightly bend the aluminum sheet to conform to the frame). Go to the Ripcord spread sheet and add up gas trusts, hinges, bolts, latches, etc to get an idea of how much you could save here. (do this in your head or by using a temporary cell with a sum of relevant items, don't spend time on a fancy new spread sheet to get to your answer)

• If YOU had to pick a type of material to use for this (without emptying wallets) what route would you go and why?

• The Ripcord design is a great (advanced) DIY. I would stick close to that.
  • I would keep the steel lower frame.
  • reduce doors as noted above
  • 8020 is pretty expensive and heavy. It's great for bolting things together, especially if you are figuring some of it out as you go (you can slide in more hardware or move hardware locations as you go). I would consider rectangular aluminum tube and drill and insert riv-nuts where you need mounting points. It should end up lighter and cheaper than 8020, but it will take a little more work. I'd do corner joints with DIY steel brackets and rivets.
    • If you're ok with being a little heavier, you could use steel for the lower bed frame also. Ripcord design has a steel top to the lower frame and the full length aluminum frame over it. There is redundant material at the top sides (steel and Al). You could make the steel frame taller (to clear the cab) and use steel tubes along the full length of the bed bottom (avoid having two tubes together). This reduced redundant material, replaces Al with steel, and removes hardware to connect the two structures.
  • I think the wedge could be joined to the frame using VHB tape instead of all that hardware and gasket. A little cheaper and probably much easier. Maybe keep a couple "chicken" bolts in there.
  • Drill and bolt through bed rails instead of making fancy brackets to attach camper
  • use an existing sleeping pad or get a foam pad instead of the fancy air mattress. small cost savings, but these add up.
  • In general, complexity is expensive. There are a lot of little pieces here and they add up. Another example that could save time and money is simplifying the tent - reduce doors/windows.