code 1408 L/R wheel speed sensor options???

My ABS, Brake, & traction control lights came on. A buddy has a machine he hooked up & found code 1408. Left rear wheel speed sensor problem. I've crawled under & looked at everything I can see & all wires, connectors, etc. looks good. Replacing the sensor looks pretty simple if all goes good. Just wondering a couple of things. What's the odds if I just replace the sensor, that will fix my problem, get the lights to go off?? Dealer price $250, Advanced Auto price $139, ebay price $9.75, I don't want to spend $150 on something I could fix for $9.75. Will I need to get the lights reset after repairs or will the lights go off if everything is fixed & working properly? Any help or suggestions appreciated.

 

50/50 - I would be nice if you had a scanner that could monitor independent wheel sensors. Then look at the speed sensor data. This would help give us a clue.

I’d pull the sensor and inspect it.
If it’s coated in oil/grease. The chance it’s the sensor starts getting lower.

 

I know nothing about scanners & monitors, just know a buddy hooked up something that said code 1408 & that meant there was something wrong in L/R, could be sensor, could be wire, could be connector, could be in computer. Is there a scanner or monitor that will tell exactly what the problem is? I's thinking to order the $10 one & while I had t apart plug this new cheap one in to see if maybe would work. just see what happened. If something has got to be reset with a computer after it's fixed, I won't know if it's fixed till I find somebody that can reset it. For me, this new stuff is a dang pain in the butt.

 

You can erase the codes yourself.
It’s just not “easy”. You need to jump pins on the OBD Connector.

See here - https://www.tacomaworld.com/posts/24755625

 

I would not recommend using a cheap Ebay sensor, it may work but probably won't.

 

There's no computer that will tell you exactly what's wrong. The ABS module expects that all the wiring is OK, the tone ring is not chipped or cracked, the pickup magnet in the sensor is good, etc.

Setting a trouble code is only the computer's attempt at self diagnosis.

If you want to be sure before you throw parts at it you're going to need some tools. A proper scan tool that can look at ABS data, or a lab scope

 

lab scopes, scan tools, That sounds like a lot of expensive stuff. I ordered a new ebay (I know, not recommended) sensor. I got the old one out & it measured 319 ohm. the new one read 649 ohm., seemed this may be the problem. Go the new one in, inspected all wires & connectors as best as I could find, & saw no sign of any problems with them. ABS, BRAKE, & traction control lights still on, drove it apps 30 mi., lights still on, disconnected batt for appx. 30 min. lights still on. Personally I'm not comfortable trying to jump those little connectors & pumping the brake pedal, as described in post #4. Hoping for something that just sounds a little more reasonable. All ideas appreciated, whether I use them or not.

 

Get a scan tool that can read and erase the ABS codes, otherwise you stick to the paper clip method. Those lights won’t clear unless manual operator intervention occurs to reset the light, even if it problem has been fixed.

just because the wire “looks good” doesn’t mean it is. I had an internal short on my wire where the jacket looked fine on the outside but I was losing voltage right at the sensor connector. This can be checked with a simple voltmeter. If your axle seal is on its way out, that area where the tone ring rotates may be full of grease. How did the old sensor looked when removed?

Edit: you did replace the correct side? Left means driver.

 

Thanks, correct, drivers side rear & the old one, of course dirty on the outside, the inside looked brand new dry & shiny just like the new one. I do understand it could still be a wire or connector that looks good or possibly one somewhere you can't even see. I had found 2 places that told how to ck the sensors, one said it should read between 450 & 2200 ohm & the other said from 500 to 2500 ohm. Really feeling, by my old one being 319 ohm., good chance it is fixed. A little confused by post #4 instructions. it says with his jump wire method, there will be code ###'s flashing but doesn't say where they will be located or what they mean. What if my jump wire hits the wrong contact in that little plug? He says touch pins #4 & #13, what if I accidently hit the wrong pin??? Kind'f afraid I could easily screw up the whole computer things & I know that stuff is really EXPENSIVE. If I get to town, will most mechanics have the tools to reset the ABS lights or will one be pretty hard to find? I "AM NOT" not going to a Toyota dealer, that is out, I'll just drive it with the lights on. I appreciate your time.

 

I don't know what the ohm reading should be, I've never seen toyota give a specification for that so I'd be lying if I told you I knew what was acceptable or not. I've always just checked for voltage at the connector, and if I had that I would check the wave form using my scan tool. The tools these days are cheap, I have this one and it's more than paid for itself. If you are nervous about shorting the wrong pin, used a switched jumper. The codes are the frequency of the ABS light blinking on the gauge cluster.

$119 FOXWELL NT630 Plus OBD2 Scanner Diagnostic Tool, 2024 ABS Scan Tool Bleeding Brake SRS Scanner Car Code Reader Bidirectional Scanner with Airbag Light Reset SAS Oil Light

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSMJJK9?ie=UTF8

 

Rock Auto sells them cheap! Installed one for a 2016 Tacoma and functioned just fine.

 

Thanks T444E, I can unplug & check to see if leads show between 7.5V & 12 V, should be pretty straight forward.... I punched on that Foxwell scan tool & was completely lost, EOBD, SAS, not a clue what that is, ABS & AIRBAG I knew what it was till I saw it said Brake Bleed Scan Tool, Just can't imagine this thing bleeding the brakes. I recognize it's My fault cause I've just refused to try & learn all this new electronic stuff, Too late in life, heck I can barely remember the old stuff. I'll ck. the V & see what's there. Thanks.

 

Hey Superdave, are you saying your warning lights went off by themselves???? or did you get a scan tool to turn them off?

 

first and foremost before buying a speed sensor and replacing it, i would suggest in removing the sensor to clean out any grease/debris that may be on it. You'll be surprised at how much is/will have accumulated on it. After reinstalling the sensor and if the cleaning does the trick, the ligt will turnoff/ reset itself after a very short test drive, or you can manually reset it yourself with a jumper wire.

all you need is a 10mm box end wrench or socket to remove the sensor, a pocket sized screwdriver is also recommended to undo the connector harness at the speed sensor. I would also suggest spray WD-40 on the connector prior to removal.

you can easily check for ABS codes or clear the ABS light yourself by using a jumper wire and deciphering the blinking ABS light on the dash..








https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-bad-rear-wheel-bearing.561813/#post-18396971

 

The code reader specified left front speed sensor/abs sensor was faulty. The wire was actually torn. Part was like $35. Plug and play installed the new one, code gone.