TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Might be best to, but I have had one in the engine bay before with no issues. It’s so small you could probably mount it inside the fuse box.

 

Widget Man ships fast. PWM controller and a PAC TR7 with a quarter for size comparison.

 

Whoa. That's freaking SMALL!

 

If you're gonna waste beer use the cheap stuff. Save the IPA's for drinking.

 

IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol.... haha drink UP!

 

Only if it's 100% alcohol because I don't drink anything weaker than that.

 

Here's a question for you boys:

I am wiring up a dash mounted digital voltmeter which is capable of displaying 12V and 24V independently on two separate readouts. The gauge has 3 pins in the back and the ground as you can imagine shares a common ground between both power sources. The batteries I will be rigging it to will be 12V and 24V actually.

My question: If I run a ground from the 24V which strings to the 12V main battery which will have the primary ground lead running to the gauge will that be an issue? Or should I just run two wires independent of each other all the way to the voltmeter common ground point like the diagram indicates?

The only reason I'd like to try and do it this way is to shorten the amount of wiring needed to run back to the common pin at the voltmeter itself. As the run well be semi long.

I have to add in there that my 12V battery is an alternator charged source and the 24V will not be.

Here's a photo of the way they want you to run the ground for reference:



This is the way I would like to try and run it:

 

I don’t see any issue with doing it like in the second pic. Especially since it’s just a gauge and not a high current consuming device.

 

That's what I was thinking. There is a terminal block by the gauge which has a third 12 volt battery hooked into it. I'm going to assume it shouldn't be an issue hooking into that as well and then using that as a hook up point for the gauge?

That would basically share a ground for all three batteries at that point.

 

Is the 24V battery going to be chassis ground?

 

Non chassis ground. Ground is provided direct by each battery.

 

I think the only time you’d want to run a power and ground lead to each individual battery is if you want the most accurate reading possible.

As an example, my Alpine radio has a voltage reading it pulls from OBD data. The data comes from the ECM, which as you know is in the passenger footwell. The reading the ECM sees is about 0.5 to 0.7 lower that what I measure at the battery.

Some of that difference could be the difference between my Fluke and the ECM as far as calibration/accuracy of the measurement. But some of it is definitely voltage drop. Every connection in the chain has a small amount of voltage drop that adds up. There’s the battery terminal itself, the ring terminal that connects to the fuse box under the hood, the fuse in the fuse box, the connector at the fuse box, and whatever connectors that are along the way to their final destination at the ECM.

If you want dead nuts accuracy, run the wires straight to each battery. If it’s not that critical and you just want a general health number, tap in at the closest place you can.

 

This is great info. I think I'm more concerned with general health readings more than super accurate numbers so I'll just tap in where I can to keep things a little more simple. Thanks for the info Tor and @loginfailed

 

Being that it won't share the ground, then like he said above, get both sources from that specific battery.

 

Here’s my project for the weekend. I’m ripping out all the electrical shit I’ve added under the dash over the last 5 years and starting over in the interest of simplicity and tidiness.

This whole thing started because my remote start key fob is starting to fall apart and won’t stay on my keychain. Voxx/Prestige has updated this alarm/remote start system over the years so I decided rather than just buying a new remote, I’ll just clean her up real nice with a new model.

I’m going in, boys.

 

This is a task that’s on my list as well. Look forward to the details.

 

Good luck. It sucks when you add one accessory at a time over years. Makes wiring look like it was done by a 12 year old. Nice to go in and clean it all up sometimes. I did mine when I did the cage since the entire interior was out and added a painless fuse panel. And since then I’ve changed/ added a few accessories so mine is starting to look rat nesty again

 

I'm going to be ordering parts next week to do the cam gears and service the supercharger… Anyone have an answer for me?

I assume it's just this: https://superchargersonline.com/pro...ota-trd-magnsuon-4-0l-tacoma-fj-supercharger/

 

I did car audio and security in my younger days for about 12 years. I’m fairly neat with my wiring because of that, but like y’all say, we add one thing at a time and it just always tends to get a bit out of control!

Here’s the mess I pulled out. It looks worse on the floor than it did in the truck, obviously. But I was scratching my head looking at some of the routing decisions I made at the time, lol.

 

I filed the IC orange seal in the bed, but that IC cover seal is what i needed.

Too bad can just find a source for the long length of o ring material for the IC cover