Oil Filter Housing STUCK... need help!

Torque wrenches are not generally meant for loosening fasteners; that's why most really good ones only tighten, and yes, using it to free a stuck fastener, even if it's well below the maximum rating can throw it out of calibration.

 

I know what they’re meant for. The concept that they’re somehow incapable of loosening a plastic filter housing without damage is absurd, but as I said before, do whatever you’re comfortable with.

If your torque wrench can’t handle oil filter housings, it’s probably a better breaker bar than a torque wrench to begin with.

 

i just did my oil change, that sht is way over torqued.

 

hah, I'm not looking forward to the next time I have to do mine...

 

It's likely just someone over torquing at last oil change.

 

You're 100% right. Changed my oil last weekend and it was just as tight as I had left it on my last oil change. So definitely was overtorqued the first time.

 

Just did my first oil and filter. Dealer did the first two before that. I’m told the torque spec for the housing is 18 ft lb (pretty light).

Started with a quality filter wrench, with 2” extension, on 3/8” drive. Wouldn’t budge.

Switched to a 24” cheater bar. Wouldn’t budge. Got the wife to help pull on the cheater. Twisted the 3/8” Craftsman 2” extension in half.

Grabbed a 1/2” 450 ft lb impact driver and pounded with that for two minutes. Came loose.

Put everything back together and went for a short drive. Oil everywhere.

Disassembled and inspected. Found a crack in the housing along the single tab opposite the three tab side. Nice.

Got a new housing and reinstalled to 18 ft lb. Dealer will never change my oil again. Not a fun day.

 

Have not had that problem yet, only 1 oil change so far. I’ve read that the plastic housing expands far more than the aluminum base, did mine at ambient temperature of 70 degrees with just enough engine warm up to get it on the ramps.
Just my two cents worth.

 

I’m having this issue myself this evening. I bought a cheap $10 socket that is designed just for this. It broke 2 of the little plastic tabs on the filter housing (so far). I see a much higher quality socket online, (looks machined) I’m going to order that, though this won’t help me tonight. Think I’m going to do oil changes myself from now on, I assume the dealer over-torqued it. Wish me luck…

 

Part 2!
First, this may be a long post, I apologize. So, this may draw some ire from the purists, but, whatever works! I tried the breaker bar. I think I bought a (2) inferior socket. It is basically molded sheet metal. Whenever I’d apply torque, the socket would push away from the nut (filter housing) and it would slip.
I borrowed an impact wrench, but, my compressor does 2.6 CFM, so it wouldn’t budge.
I considered trying channel locks, but I hesitated, as I didn’t want to negate the possibility of enlisting professional help by destroying the socket integrity (I had already bought a replacement housing, based on how this was all going).
Ultimately, after two days and much frustration, channel locks removed the oil filter housing like slicing through warm butter.
I’ve heard that the dealer may have over-torqued the housing, I’ve heard that this is just a flaw in the design. Either way, buy yourself a spare housing ($60 +\—) just in case. Don’t take a day off work. Just clamp those channel locks around the 14-sided ‘nut’ and be done with it. truth be told, I think my old housing is still serviceable, and I’ll hang onto it just because.
I would say save channel locks for a last resort. I’d also say that after HOURS of frustration, channel locks removed the oil filter housing with one easy turn.
Just my experience.
I’m considering a Baxter Performance adapter that allows a spin-on filter. Need to investigate if it will clear my CBI skid plate. More to follow

Good luck! I still love my 2017 Tacoma TRD OFF-ROAD!​

 

Good luck. Obviously your current housing is trash.

Pure hell job for such a simple thing. I’d like five minutes with the “tech” that did mine.

Careful with that old housing. I didn’t break off any tabs, but there was a hairline crack next to one, didn’t know it, reinstalled, and oil everywhere.

Also, when installed with torque consistent with every spin on filter I’ve ever used, there have been no leaks and removal is easy.

 

Thanks for the tips! I ordered an aftermarket metal replacement (the threads are still hard plastic I think). I am definitely going to do oil changes and rotations myself from here on out!

 

Tool

 

I did mine on Sunday and had to use an impact drill to remove the housing. Drove around the block and was hemorrhaging oil. By this time it was too dark to tell where it was coming from and then you add the skid plate to the mix and it was just a mess.

I placed a pan under the truck and will hope to tackle it on Saturday because of course 12 hour days. Anyway, I recommend trying breaker bars before going to impact. I ordered the aluminum housing, the oil drain plug, the filter drain plug, and every other recommended add on to make the next oil change easier.

i just hope I didn’t damage anything other than the housing with the impact drill. I’ll keep you posted.

 

Since the dealer was going to take over a week to change my oil, I decided to do it myself for the first time. My filter housing was stuck and this thread was helpful.

The best advice is to use the socket on the special tool to loosen a stuck housing. I started with the 3/8 extension in the tool and it cracked the tool using a cheater bar. I put a socket on the tool - after it was cracked - and the filter housing came right off.

Difference was night and day.

 

I have a cap style filter wrench. Used it once and decided it was/is a pos after seeing broken Finns on the plastic canister. Bought an aluminum canister and wrench pictured here. Remember to use the longest lever-arm wrench you have - makes it way easier than those small rachets. No more problems.

 

Just ran into this myself. Stapp Interstate did the first two oil changes, never letting them touch a vehicle again. Sounds like I'm running to Home Depot to pick up a 24mm socket (1/2"). What a nightmare.

 

Having done probably thousands of oil changes in a workshop environment n my life this was my first on my truck.

What the hell were Toyota thinking of with this design of filter housing…Dumb.

Thankfully I had the filter tool and after nearly shearing my 3/8 extension used 1/2” gear. The last Toyota tech must have waaay over torqued it. Hopefully it’ll be an easier oil change in 5k miles, time will tell…

 

Ran into this issue of an over-torqued oil filter housing. I'd damn near broke my 3/8" breaker bar trying to use it with the motivx oil wrench. Thank you to all who'd suggested the 1/2" breaker bar with the 24 mm socket. It saved me today lol

 

Old thread but ran into this same issue, I've been doing my oil changes myself no problem but happened to score a free oil change from the dealer and cashed it in. Broke my 3/8 extension trying to get it off, I'm wondering if the over tightening comes from not using a torque wrench on the filter drain plug (trying to give them the benefit of the doubt). Called the dealer and told them, now it's free oil change #2 and heading to get a 1/2" breaker bar and 24mm socket