TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

292 hp / 316 tq on a Dynapack.
Considering the radiator system requires steady airflow, heat soak is a major concern. You can see a 46 hp Delta between the 1st and 2nd run. Didn't think to check with a thermo gun. My AC compressor stopped working after the sc install and wondering if I should wire up the AC switch to ramp up the fan as well. I think I finally need speed holes in the bumper and maybe zzp water pump.

 

Look at all that low rpm torque!

 

That is huge. Wow. Thanks for showing. Be good to copy that to the F/I dyno thread, with the point explained.

 

Yes really happy with the response down low. It was my first time on a Dynapack. The tuner tech said it reads about 10% higher than Dynojet. I was hoping to hit 350 ft-lb but true drivetrain loss with 216lb of wheel and tire on the rollers would show I'm much lower. Oh well. Car is fun af to drive

 

What y’all think of these? Anyone running them

 

ARH makes some very high quality headers. Those look to be for the dual VVTi 1GR.

 

The run was back to back and the fan air was hitting my bumper bash plate and directing the air elsewhere. For a couple years I said it wasn't an issue but clearly it is

 

Says it fits 2010-2015 tacoma. ? Ya I’m
Confused.

 

Maybe they meant Fj. Didn’t early FJ lack dual vvti? Also is there a GX 460 without the 4.6 V8?

 

So far yesterday if I turned my AC on with the coolant up to temp (efan on) it immediately started working, even on the setting just above max cool.

 

Only the Prado which is the gx in other countries. That whole ad is wrong tho. The 4.0L for everything but the Tacoma got the dual vvti in 2010

 

Ton of shops have the Tacoma listed incorrectly. Recently told the guys at JBA that. They shipped me 4Runner headers as it was listed as fitting a Tacoma. I doubt they would fit and are listed wrong

 

I'm looking at the valve body upgrade next. The kit on the front page is like a gasket and spring for like $55. But what about the transgo shift kit at $190 or the Sonnax zip kit at $250? Anyone have experience/thoughts on those?

 

The transgo and sonnax are more of a rebuild where the ratiotek is a shift kit. I think @Lucario Runner did both the ratio and transgo recently.

 

@mightytacoman noted the differences but will say his write-up was a valuable tool. If you take your time the kits not too hard to install. Just takes time and can get messy dropping the pan. I picked up a large concrete pan from HD for $12 to catch any extra fluid when I dropped the pan.

 

Finally going to pick up a new trans cooler setup. Whats folks take on with or without a fan? with fan feedback I saw was better to have a puller setup upfront rather than a pusher set up to benefit the natural flow.

I like the idea of a fan on the cooler to help slow and stopped movement when it's warmed up. That is where I have been seeing the most issues. Have it kick on at 195 to help.

I was looking at these:

Regular:

$185 Derale 52506 25 Row Core Stacked Plate Cooler Kit , Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XOQZWG?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Fan Setup: (this can be reversed to a puller fan from push fan but not sure if we have enough room for it.

$220 Derale 13750 Atomic-Cool Remote Cooler , Black

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CIY6VE?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

with inline t-stat

$33 Derale 13021 -6AN x -6AN In-Line Fluid Thermostat

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-13021...c01c4c67e83&pd_rd_wg=qK4W3&pd_rd_i=B000CJ062Q

 

Also got my solid motor and trans mounts installed! Overall not too bad but that driver side was a big PIA. Did it without removing any extra parts. Main was dropping the diff a couple of inches. Could get the torque wrench in on the frame side so they are good and tight but the block was torque to spec on all sides. not taking a chance on that.

 

Was looking into a cooler thermostat, found the durolast one linked on page 1:
https://www.autozone.com/cooling-he...alast-kit-thermostat-63460/577311_656099_1640

It's a 160 degree for a 4runner I guess? any problems with the angle of the housing being different than the straight Tacoma one?
Also wondering if i really would see the benefit of such a low temp one -- not really planning on a ton of mods -- trd s/c with cam gears, a few of the free upgrade tricks on page 1, but no smaller pulley or crazy stuff (maybe a 2.8" pulley in the future if I feel I need more power)... such a thing as too low an engine temp?
Maybe better with a 170 degree one? Also being mindful that my truck is long travel and will see hot temps / long runs in the desert so I'd like all the cooling I can get.

 

The urd 170deg thermostat showed ~185deg on my ultragauge.

The autorad 160deg thermo reads ~175deg on my same ultragauge under the same conditions.

I also preferred the autorad due to the one piece design and no need for an adapter sandwich plate.

 

The Mishimoto 160 is a one-piece design as well. no need to put or sandwich anything/direct bolt-on.