What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

What are your highs now? After I changed my water pump and thermostat mine gets pretty high. As high as 215 going up mountain grades in the summer heat

 

My 3rd set of seats installed. Finally found what works.
Cipher racing reclining economy seats (Actually very comfirtable but side bolsters are a real pain to get over and seats are very tall, Corbeau Sports (returned) and now BAJA XRS. They are however too wide so I had to remove plastic b pillar covers.
But they are damn confirmable. So I made adjustments to make these fit. customer service is amazing!

 

it wasn’t the factory radiator for my application. I have a 3.4/Auto trans… super tall radiator from factory that hangs below the frame rails. I installed a factory sized radiator for the 2.4L/manual trans… smaller size in height and in core thickness. Just wanted to try a radiator that wouldn’t hang below the frame but the 2.4L didn’t pan out.

 

192F. The jiggle valve should be at 6:00 on these trucks, not the traditional 12:00.

 

My buddy cut that off and said that helps….lol but I’m pretty sure I put it at 6. Might need to check

 

Might want to try replacing your radiator if it is high mileage.

They get gunked up, especially the lower half. The fins get crap in them and the air can't flow thru. I think I've seen your truck caked in mud, I guarantee the radiator still has mud on it and the lack of good airflow is contributing to your cooling issues.

It is possible to clean up but you really need to pull it to do it right. And you can't use high pressure water as it'll just deform the fins.

 

It’s at 105k now. I’ve been considering replacing it. Always get lost on the way the best option is.

 

Since I just did my TB and WP the temps have been better than with the Champion radiator. I was seeing 198-204 constantly while now I'm seeing 188-194ish, new thermostat and back to a RockAuto radiator. So I'm assuming it was the non-OEM thermostat installed at 12 instead of 6

 

Your shop did a very good job and gave you some really clean work.

How is drive train noise now? Quieting that down has been one of my biggest reasons for wanting to go MLV on the cab floor and deadening in general. My exhaust is much quieter now after my side exit and resonator, but the motor and wind noise now is the biggest thing I deal with when I do 75-80. Mostly cause my rpms are around 36-3700 at 80 mph with my gearing.

@Blackdawg beat me to it but 2.5's are pretty damn tough to run outside the frame even with an axle swap. My buddy is running an FJ80 FF rear and 35's and still needed to french them into the frame a bit. In the end he ended up almost rebuilding a pocket into the frame. Granted not everyone wants 35's but for those of us that do it's something to consider when going outside.

 

This is the oem toyota 170 corolla i recommend

 

i think the 2.5s wouldn't be thay bad with 33s. 35s i would probably need to notch out the bottom corner of frame. you can definitely get it close enough when vertical but when flexed the shock would smash into the frame. these as 12" stroke with skyjacker leafs so im not exactly pulling crazy travel numbers. i do fully cycle the 12s though. will soon be replaced with chevy 63s so il see about getting some 14" kings to match my front.

 

@cynicalrider The wind noise have gone WAY down. I drive mine on the interstate to work in the mornings and it's soooo much quieter now. I can't speak for the engine noise as of yet because the exhaust is just too loud when i'm on the skinny pedal, but when I'm just coasting on the interstate around 75-80 mph... no wind noise; it's great. The other upside is it made my stereo sound a lot better too. I have aftermarket door speakers and tweeters with a small sub behind the read seat and before the sound deadening, I couldn't really tell a difference between the new speakers and the blown stock speakers lol. I'll update about the engine noise after I sort out the exhaust, but I have a feeling that it will be comparable to the wind noise. So far though, the deadening is super worth it. If i had to do it again, i'd probably skip the MLV and just double up on the floor tiles in certain spots and then put a layer of closed cell foam over that. The MLV was just frustrating to get it to lay right.


I'm definitely in the "Future 35s" club so inboard shock mounts it is.

 

Definitely more than just the bottom corner. Of course this is on a 2003 and running 4.5" BS wheels, no spacers on a FF FJ80 rear. May not need to go as extreme with 3.5" BS wheels but I bet it's still a good chunk.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/threads/godzilla-2-0.2423298/post-38791410

Good to know, I know if I want to do it, I want to do it RIGHT and all at once like you did, so dropping headliner and all that. Just been low on my overall priority list. I can imagine the MLV being a pain to let it lay right but TBH that might be nice to smooth out my vinyl flooring.

As far as the inboard shocks go, the 10's feel great and I am not sure I am out riding them, but I am thinking I might be able to go to 12's if I let them hang a little lower. Either way unless your pack is actually cycling more then 10's which I know my Dakars are not, it's not worth trying to squeeze the biggest shock in yet. Mine are damn near vertical left to right, and just laid back a bit from the side. Also tried to push it as close to the outside of the axle as I could for being within the frame rails.

Untitled by Michael Halat, on Flickr
Shock relocation by Michael Halat, on Flickr

 

Man I'm so sorry. I'm in Houston and stayed here through Ike and Harvey so I have an idea what that's like.

 

im running 2.3"bs. also my shocks are mounted off the front of axle and run forward a few inches so they arent directly in line with the top of the tire. I strongly believe a 2.5 could be used without a frame notch on the setup i have.

 

I'd love to see it, so def not discouraging you haha. I've always wanted to go outboard myself so i'd be interested to see how it goes.

 

Open to suggestions!

 

If you can get the key cylinder out you can block it open with a flat head screw driver until you get a new cylinder.

might have to drill it if you can’t turn the key to ACC though

 

Double cab frame for sale!!! Needed in the rustbelt!!!

 

Beefy ass re-tubbed drive shaft with .34 wall

EDIT: .134 not .34 tubing