2008 clutch master cylinder hydraulic question

Hi, new here.

I spent this afternoon trying to replace my clutch master cylinder. Though tight I managed to get the old one out and got the new one hooked up to the line coming from the fluid reservoir (what I thought would be the toughest part). For whatever reason I cannot get the threads of the hydraulic line to catch in the new cylinder, is there any trick/am I missing something? Do people remove the pedal or something to make it more accessible? I’ve tried it both with and without the 2 mounting bolts.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/clutch-problems.631955/#post-22955269

 

Did you take the plastic shipping plugs out ?

 

I did.

 

I had a similar issue and if you don’t replace the flared end line, I had to file the flared end down until it would start threading in finally. More info here

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/threading-hard-line-into-clutch-master-cylinder.575528/

 

Update: I took the old cylinder to the hardware store and found a bolt that fit into it, along with a nut that fit the bolt. The bolt fit into the new MC but the nut did not fit onto the hydraulic line. I guess I need a new line, or could try filing it down some

 

I used a jewelers file. It took a really long time. Be patient. A little material at a time. Clean it really good before assembly. After it’s all done, check if it’s leaking.

I’m not sure how difficult it would be to replace the pipe. I imagine you’ll be thinking Toyota started with this pipe, then built the entire truck around it.

 

the file worked! I just cleaned up the tip a little bit with it, no longer than 10 min, then loosened the cylinder, was able to get both hands in there with the plastic side panel taken off, and got it started. Now however the pedal just snaps to the floor when pressed and stays there. I assume it’s because I need to fill the system with fluid? Are there any good videos?

 

Glad you got it on.

Yup. Bleeding it is a pain. I did the 2 man method. By hand pump the pedal up and down, hold down, open and close the bleeder, repeat. It took a long time before there was even any pedal resistance. I got brake fluid all over myself, in my ears and armpits.

 

Got it fixed! Bleeding was a pain, I ended up getting a vacuum bleeder from harbor freight for $25 whic definitely helped get it started, then bled the master by disconnecting the hydraulic line from the firewall on the engine side to bleed air out the high point. After that I did the 2 person method to bleed the slave normally. When I have a min I will attach pictures of how I opened up the area to get to the master to attach the hydraulics, the file i used, the vacuum bleeder I got, and where I disconnected the hose to bleed it by the firewall.

 

Hope these help anyone who needs it. Like I said, I’m new here but my pet peeve has been when the original poster doesn’t follow up with the results of how the repair went.