SR/SR5 OEM LED headlight harness V2

For the latest, please go here: SR to OEM LED Conversion Harnesses V2 (Most current thread Dec 2023) | Tacoma World Nothing too big has changed, but it is the most up to date thread and install instructions.


I figured it might be less confusing to have these listed separately. If you’d like to see the history, here is the V1 thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/sr-sr5-oem-led-headlight-conversion-harnesses.720866/

So on to the new and improved!

These harnesses allow the SR/SR5 trucks to use the OEM LED headlights. It is all plug and play, no wires to repin or splice. Each side does have a relay to mount, but they are easily mounted to the side by each headlight.
Using these harnesses, the DRL will function with the stalk switch. The behavior is is almost like they came from the factory. Here is why I say almost: to achieve this, I had to build in some logic. Because of that, there is a short delay (just under 1 second, I have refined the programming process so that time is consistent, and controllable down to the 1/10th of a second) from where you turn the DRL on, to when they actually come on. They still shut off immediately, it is just a delay when turning on. There is also a very quick flash of amber as soon as the stalk switch is set to DRL from off (or from low beams back to park). So you will see a very quick amber flash, then less than a second later, full brightness white DRL. The turn signals do not cause this, just turn on the DRLs. That is one disadvantage over the V1. But… the advantage over V1 is functions that cause the turn signal to blink (like keyless entry and remote start) no longer flash white first.
It should also be noted that the DRL will dim when the low beams are switched on, unlike a lot of the other wiring solutions.
These still seem to require resistors in some cases, so I am just going to include them. As such, I will be asking $175 for the set, shipped ($10 more to Canada)


Please feel free to reach out with any questions.

 

Now, how to install these.
I tried making them as streamlined and simple as possible. The first thing I would recommend is testing everything out before anything. Just set your headlights on the engine, unplug the old ones, and plug these in. You can also try to determine if you will need resistors at this point as well. Try it without them, switching the turn signal on for a couple of seconds, then off, then on, repeat… if you get a hyperflash, you need the resistor. If you dont, you may later. So keep that in mind. Resistors can be added easy enough after the install. They just plug in, and you already have them as that they are included.

So, now that you’ve determined everything works, let’s get these installed. If you are going to use the resistors, I find it easier to mount those first. They need to be mounted to metal, and clear of any wiring or tubing, or anything that heat could damage. There is a nice flat spot on each side of the truck I find ideal for this.
Drivers side:

Passengers side (kind of hidden behind the washer fluid reservoir)
[picture pending. Thought I had one]

After that, I would mount the relay. There is a bag of hardware included for this. There are two spots I found that work well for it as well. You will need an 8mm socket or wrench (and maybe a 10mm as well). To begin, take the winged screw and put the small washer on it. You will insert it from behind the bottom hole here:

Now, take the large washer, then the spacer and put them on the screw.

you can then put the relay on it, followed by the medium washer, and finally the lock nut. Using your finger to hold the screw, tighten it down.

The passengers side is the same thing, same location

There is a small hole in the brace just below this. You can secure the timer to it with a zip tie if you want (it is recommended that it gets secured)


The alternate method (for guys with big fingers) is to mount it to the cross brace above the headlights. You can bend the relay mount back 90°. Then feed the screw up through it, small washer, spacer, large washer. Feed up through the hole, medium washer and lock nut.


Now that it is mounted, you just need to hook the wires up. These can usually only go one way, with the exception of the low and high beams. The low beam (green) has a red or blue wire. That will match with the red or blue wire on the harness. The high beam will have a white wire with a black stripe (both sides), a white wire (drivers side), and a yellow wire (passengers side). Those just need to match the colors on the plug marked high. The 3 pin connector just plugs into the 3 pin connector on the harness.

There is one plug left from the old headlights (it went to the side marker). This just gets capped. There are 2 light grey caps included for this.

 

Trouble shooting guide coming soon….

 

Do you have any videos of the flashing this harness does over V1? I’d like to see if I’d like this version over my V1 harness.

 

I don’t, but I can make one.

 

Not the comparison video yet, but here is the V2 in action.
https://youtu.be/2qPpib1d4XA

 

Ok, finally got it. The light on the left is a switch back with a VLED controller. The one on the right is the new design using a delay timer. You can see the switchback flashes white on the first pulse. I should note, I have an aftermarket alarm, so you will see the parking lights flash as well. If you truck only flashes the turn signals, you will only see the amber flash.
https://youtube.com/shorts/vwmv5LMUpeM?feature=share

 

Johnny, would you please add clear purchase instructions to your first post? You may get some traffic from outside of TW so if DM is required it might be best to spell that out as a necessary step?

Doug I specifically may be contacting you.

 

Geez, you want me to do something that would actually make sense?!
Sorry. This post was started as a placeholder really. Now that I have nailed down the design to something I am happy with, and have tested, retested, tested again, and tested some more, I will do something with it. So give me a couple days.
Until that, feel free to shoot me a DM. That usually gets the best response.

Now…. Who’s Doug?

 

Doug Venmo’d me and I redirected to you via this thread.

 

Oh, ok. Hi Doug!

 

Finally got some news for those interested. Now that I have refined the design, and the new building process, these should move a little quicker. Thanks to all for your patience!

 

@Puppypunter random inquiry, I feel like this has been answered but I can't remember. Can these be wired to flash non sequential?

 

No, the sequential part is internal.

 

OK, PMs have been sent for Batch 0. I will have them shipped out by Friday. Batch 1 will ship shortly after, by the 29th. I appreciate everyone's patience, and hope to make it worth the wait!

@Morningbeers it wont let me start a conversation with you. Not sure if you're banned? I'll hold your place for 2 weeks, so shoot me a PM if you can?

 

On to batch 1! PMs have been sent

 

Still have a couple ready to ship. A lot of no-shows on the last batch. Also, I should note, if anyone is really hardcore and wants these to replicate the stock function without the delay or brief amber flash, I have figured out how to do that. It isn't really user friendly (it can be done totally plug and play, but there is a lot more plugging, running an ignition controlled power source, running cables through the firewall, mounting a relay, running the DRL wire to each head light, and probably a few steps I am forgetting) and requires you to have the ability to disable DRL via the settings in the head unit. I haven't really priced that option (parts are a little less, but time goes up as they aren't very easy to build), but it will replicate the DRL functionality exactly (parking brake functionality optional), and does it using nothing but old school electromechanical devices (a few relays, diodes, and fuses). I am going to build a proof of concept, but don't think I will build anything beyond that unless someone wanted to commission one. It is more of one of those stupid things I wanted to prove that I could, but question why I should

 

I'm in if you have any kits left.

 

Another "in" if you have a v2 kit for grabs