Oil Pan Gasket??

Getting ready to replace the oil pan on my 1998 taco 4x4 with the 3.4, the threads are stripped and have been previously tapped to oversized threads already so it's warranted at this point. Planning to Undo the hubs, remove cv axles, drop the front diff and then oil pan. Have been looking all over online for a "oil pan gasket" but from what I'm reading, there is no true "gasket", it's a gasket paste? Another member has recommended I use "FIPG oil pan gasket", a gasket paste, Amazon part #B000EDDTV0
Any suggestions/tips from members who have also replaced their pan appreciated.
Mainly, is this the correct gasket and if so, how many tubes to get the job done? Thanks

$16 Toyota Genuine Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0

 

Thats good stuff and I think that you can get by with one but get two anyways. Make sure that you flatten the pan bolt surfaces before you start.

 

Thanks for your reply. Is that the only gasket needed? I was able to find a physical "gasket" on rock auto for $4. Thinking install the rock auto gasket and add the paste over top? Here's the link for the rock auto gasket, different from the FIPG paste gasket

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=447476&cc=1317633&pt=5436&jsn=1379

 

In my opinion don’t do a gasket and sealer, if originally it had sealer, do just sealer. most sealers are silicone based and somewhat slippery until dry so as the pan gets tightened down it allows the gasket to get squeezed out of place. just make sure the pan and block are squeaky clean before you apply the sealer, brake cleaner works good.

 

I have used this on a 2nd gen. There is a short time frame before the FIPK sets up. Before you smear the FIPK on the flange, besure you have everything ready to set the oil pan. I put the FIPK on the pan, bolted it to the engine. I just lightly snugged the bolts. I waited about an hour, for the FIPK to set, then I came backed and torqued the bolts. Letting the FIPK set up, before torquing the bolts, will help prevent you squeezing it all out.

This stuff is much more aggressive than silicone. When it gets a bond, it is hard to break loose.

 

One is plenty.

OP, here's the fsm pages

 

Y'all are the best! Appreciate all the comments/tips, seems to have answered the questions I had.

 

You can actually use just the gasket and leave the "paste" out of it. Make sure that the oil pan is sufficiently flattened with all of the "forced bends" removed by previous torquing. Install the gasket with the determined amount of torque. I have seen oil pans with the gasket dressed with rtv and not dressed with anything. If you want the added assurance of dressing the gasket you can use a quality rev product and go thin on the gasket.

 

In my experience premade gaskets fail quickly. I use this stuff now:

$7 Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, Sensor Safe And Non-Corrosive, For High Flex And Oil Resistant Applications 3 oz

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/

Apply around every hole and on full lip, align carefully, hand tighten bolts, come back in an hour and fully tighten.

 

Being that resealing the pan is a time consuming project, why not just go with what Toyota recommends?