Looking at a 2007 SR5 with 176k miles

I'll be looking at a 2007 today for my nephew who is turning 16, its priced at $6500, one owner, based off talking with him he seems meticulous, did his own maintenance (or none at all) but for the price its hard to ignore.

I saw a small 3500lb-ish RV in the back and I have a sneaking suspicion he used the 4runner to tow it, would anyone be concerned about the trans if so? Other than sagging springs, shocks, any way to tell if it was abused significantly for towing?

Any other things i should look out for? He did mention to me the 4x4 button is "sticking" is that a pretty simple swap?

Thanks all--I'm coming from a 3rd gen tacoma so im used to the maintenance and thos types but never had a 4th gen 4runner

 

check for leaks

have owner start cold engine ............watch for smoke out exhaust

trans should enter any gear smoothly...............then take for a nominal ride

should still shift & engage from a stop smoothly

check color of trans fluid on dipstick...............some have dipstik some dont

sticky 4x4 button could just need contact cleaner................yet easily replaced if necessary

take at least $1k off top to cover any rehab/repairs

towing does not equate to abuse if done right

 

Try 4WD, engage it and drive in a tight circle to see if it does anything odd.

Check for rust!

How many miles? V6 or V8?

 

v6 176k

 

Price seems decent. Check the usual stuff, tires/brakes/etc. Would try to negotiate it down a bit.

 

Definitely bringing ramps to drive it up to inspect the carriage.

 

Bring: Ramps, flashlight, inspection mirror or boroscope and a scan tool.

-Check all fluids for level, colour, and smell ("burned" oil = bad)
-Look for any leaks/drips
-Corrosion on frame & critical components
-Check 4WD Hi/Lo engagement and release
-Check the cabin air filter (is it clean, dirty, wet, mouldy)
-Raise front wheels, check for ball joint, tie-rod, and U/LCA wear & damage
-Check CV boots
-Examine wiring harnesses, cavities and under engine cover for signs of furry friends.
-Use the scan tool to check for codes, and then on test drive: Monitor fuel trims, cam & crank correlation, MAF, TPS, and evap systems. Make sure you get the system into closed loop and do a good 5-10 mile drive

Above all, take your time, and if anything looks suspect, simply walk away. When I go with someone to look at a used vehicle, it typically takes me about 90 minutes to do an inspection and test drive.

 

Great suggestion on the scan tool, is there one you recommend? Plan to pick one up before i head out

 

Also if it has XREAS check the canister if possible and look at the closely suspension if somehow it's original to see if it still has the fluid

 

I would buy the best one you can afford. The key things to ensure are that it has live-data and freeze-frame capabilities. One with bidirectional controls is handy, but not maybe not critical. Launch and Autel are the main players in the 'shade-tree mechanic' line.

 

It's a sport, so yes it has Xreas, is there a way to check fluid in the canister? or only check for leaks

 

Basically check for leaks, make sure the lines still run into the shocks and have the hydraulic fluid lines threaded into the tubes themselves. If it's still there and doesn't bounce around like crazy then it's probably functional and will inevitably need to be replaced.