Woolwax application questions

So I live in the rust belt (AKA way upstate NY) where salt is always on the road in the winter and will be applying Woolwax from the spray cans, Last year I applied Fluidfilm but that smell is pretty bad and Wool wax is thicker I understand... Anyway I have a couple of questions in the hopes that I do this right....

1 How clean should the undercarriage be?? AND how long after I clean it should I let it dry if I do wash it?

2 What should I NOT SPRAY with woolwax (I have heard rubber parts and of course the exhaust) anything else?

3 Next year Can I use my Airless sprayer (

$227 Graco Magnum 257025 Project Painter Plus Paint Sprayer, Multicolor

Graco Magnum 257025 Project Painter Plus Paint Sprayer)
to apply if I buy the gallon size?

4 Any other tips?? (I understand I should use goggles, respirator, and warm the woolwax up in some hot water prior to using)

THANKS!

 

I always just make sure the undercarriage is relatively clean. I pressure wash it as good as I can. Doesn't have to be perfect but you don't want any clumps of mud or dirt or anything like that.

When I spray, the only thing I avoid is the exhaust and brakes, and even then a little overspray on the exhaust isn't a big deal. I don't think it will burn, it just smokes and smells bad for a little while. I hadn't avoided any rubber, and all my rubber is in good condition still.

I've used been using fluid film which is pretty much the same thing. I use the spray gun that woolwax sells, but it requires a compressor. I haven't tried it but I think an airless sprayer would be able to do it. My concern would be cleaning it out of the sprayer after.

 

I agree with this.. and cleaning out the sprayer may involve running some acetone or something similar in it for a few sprays. Then run water through it. Should be okay I'd think

 

I will apply fluid film in the coming weeks before it gets too cold. Will be my first time applying fluid film before a winter. I live in the northeast so i would like to ask you a question about fluid film.

When I got the truck in April, although the winter was already over the first thing I did was apply fluid film the next day. Now that winter is coming up I will do it again. During that time span from April until now, obviously there is a dirty appearance and this has become a dirty, sandy, and muddy congealed like wax coating. I was wondering do you pressure wash the frame and other components completely clean?

My understanding is every year when you apply fluid film you aren't supposed to wash off anything(maybe my understanding of wrong?), and after let's say 5 years or so you'll have an impenetrable 5 thick layers of dust, dirt and other grime... and this is what actually prevents the rust... By having those thick layers of product that have been accumulating crap for years.

Is this wrong or would you recommend me completely washing everything with a degreaser like Purple Power and adding a fresh new coat of fluid film before every winter?

 

This does not answer you’re question but maybe your within driving distance of @jpereira2 He is having a few days of it in MA, see here if you missed it. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fall-2021-woolwax-fluid-film-se-ma-multiple-days.733235/

 

I do use a "degreaser" to clean the frame, I'll normally either use dish soap or a strip wash. It really doesn't remove as much of the fluid film as you would think. That stuff is really tough to get off. Even after pressure washing the frame, there is definitely still a layer of fluid film. You can see where there is still fluid film because there is a layer of dirt stuck do it, and if you touch it it feels greasy.

I've noticed that unprotected parts of the frame like the bottom of the frame rails seem to get most the fluid film washed off just over time with normal washes and driving. So I don't feel too bad about removing a little fluid film with a wash.

I definitely don't go out of my way to remove the old fluid film. I think you would have to actually scrub the frame by hand to get it all off. I personally just want to remove as much dirt as I can off the frame before I re-coat and lock it all in for the winter.

Once I've coated the frame in the fall I don't do another real wash until the spring when I'm confident they won't put any more salt down. That way I keep as much as much fluid film on the truck as possible all winter. If it snows and I don't think there will be any more for a while, I might rinse the frame without soap. Just go get any salt off.

This will be my trucks 3rd winter and the frame is still in really good shape. I had one small bubble in the paint caused by rust on the outer side of the frame I noticed when putting on sliders this year. I touched it up with some rust reformer. Other than that the only spots with any rust where places where I had scratched the paint off the frame. Pretty good for an Ohio truck.

 

I was curious about the instructions provided by Wool-Wax. Here is what their site said https://www.kellsportproducts.com/FAQ_ep_42-1.html


Can Woolwax® be applied with an airless spray system?
Yes. We do not recommend airless systems for do-it-yourselfers because of the dangers of the very high pressure (2000-3000 psi). That being said, many of our high volume undercoaters do use airless sprayers and the feedback is that they work extremely well with airless spray systems. The recommended tip size for Woolwax® is tip # 213.

 

I did see this but is 2+ hours away…. Well worth the price though and wish it were closer…

 

Resurrecting this thread to ask: what happens if you accidentally get Woolwax on the brakes? Will they not work anymore (because slippery) or is the idea that the fluid will corrode the rubber parts?

I will not be removing the wheels (as some recommend) because I don't have jack stands and also I'm old and can't be bothered. I've also seen plenty of woolwax how-to videos where people aren't even putting trash bags around the brake area, just not spraying on the brakes. What's the risk?

 

I use to tow through upstate ny into canada during the winter snowmobling. The fluid flim i used would be gone, washed away in a couple months. Idk if woolwax is any better, but imo i'd be using the longest lasting stuff out there.

 

Very little risk of hitting the brakes. You’d darn near have to point the spray directly at them to get it on the discs. Just use a bit of caution in that area and you’ll be fine. I sprayed a lot of it on the backside of the brakes to get all the metal components covered and I didn’t get any on the discs.

 

Thanks, this is exactly what I needed to know.

 

If you did some brake cleaner would probably make short work of wool wax.

 

You might to consider this before pulling the trigger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NE1_EiZIVHs&t=7s

 

When reapplying annually, am I safe to assume I basically need to just touch up areas that are showing signs of wear or should I do the whole truck again? Bought my truck in April and coated it right away. Since then most parts look like the day I sprayed it, so it seems unnecessary to respray those areas. Only area that showed signs of wear is my cat protector (makes sense since it's in line with where the tires would turn).

 

If you did a good job of getting all the hidden areas, you’re good to go. When I look into all the enclosed areas, the WoolWax looks brand new in there. I just hit the areas that have worn off. No need to waste money/product.

 

I just did my F150 for the first time and when I retreat next year I'm only applying where it washed off.

 

When you spray inside the doors, how do you not fowl the window mechanism? Im worried my windows will roll down and get smeared.

 

you want to get the lower edges, and low to mid panel, no need to go higher. you are not trying to get up high enough to get the belt moulding, and belt weatherstrip. if it gets on the window track, motor, regulator, it is just lube, and corrosion protection. Ski