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Diff skid recommendations

Discussion in 'Armor' started by TheCubicleDaydreamer, Oct 9, 2021.

  1. Oct 10, 2021 at 9:57 PM
    #21
    TWTaco

    TWTaco Well-Known Member

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    Here is the link to the BAMF diff skids.
    http://www.bayareametalfab.com/Rear-Diff-Skid-955-to-2017_p_74.html
     
  2. Oct 11, 2021 at 3:48 AM
    #22
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I’ve thought about doing that but wondered how you seal the bolt from leaking. Itty bitty crush washer?
     
  3. Oct 21, 2021 at 7:37 AM
    #23
    Buttskevin21

    Buttskevin21 Well-Known Member

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    Stock-ish
    Back when I had crawlers, I'd just put a dab of rtv on the bolt. That and it torqued would seal off just fine
     
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  4. Oct 29, 2021 at 10:39 AM
    #24
    patchesj

    patchesj Well-Known Member

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    Now that is how it should be done....

     
  5. Nov 10, 2021 at 11:37 PM
    #25
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    I had a diff diaper from boztec for a year and realized it was pointless and sold it. I did dent the back of the housing so I welded this on. Don’t know where I got it from I found it laying around my shop. 3/8” metal she thicc. Barnes 4wd also makes a weld on rear differential cover.
    056D68C7-1400-48A8-A7D3-B32C83EEEA6A.jpg
     
  6. Nov 23, 2021 at 8:32 AM
    #26
    Buttskevin21

    Buttskevin21 Well-Known Member

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    Stock-ish
    But it doesn't say Rci on it, therfore its not cool :rofl:
     
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  7. Nov 23, 2021 at 3:05 PM
    #27
    TheCubicleDaydreamer

    TheCubicleDaydreamer [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So silly question... would you want that to continue on the main portion of the housing? Would that create the likelihood to break any welds of the melon?
     
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  8. Nov 23, 2021 at 3:08 PM
    #28
    Buttskevin21

    Buttskevin21 Well-Known Member

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    Nada, that is plenty strong. The cover is plenty thick to weld too, and I dont think it could ever break off of the "main" housing
     
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  9. Nov 23, 2021 at 5:18 PM
    #29
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    What’s states below for sure. The skid is 3/8” thick and welded to about 1/8’ thick material of the back housing. It’s also tied in at the very bottom where the thickest part of the housing is with weld. If my welds break then shame on me, but I consider this skid plate to be an extension of the housing and one with it at this point. You want to make sure to weld this one with the diff drained as to not cook the fluid that’s in there.

     
  10. Nov 23, 2021 at 6:09 PM
    #30
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    I took a different approach and welded it full of fluid to help absorb the heat, and then changed the fluid afterwards. It was nice and dark lol
     
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  11. Nov 23, 2021 at 6:22 PM
    #31
    6 gearT444E

    6 gearT444E Certified Electron Pusher

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    well yeah that’ll work to, I had the diff out already to reseal the 3rd member. What I did notice is that even with the drain plug out and it completely finished draining, there are cavities of oil that don’t get drained I ended up cleaning out with old towels. Maybe it’s because I have the pumpkin tilted back to match the pinion angle caused this but either way, I was glad that I had it out otherwise that burnt oil would still be in there probably haha.
     
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  12. Nov 23, 2021 at 6:24 PM
    #32
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Luckily for me I can’t leave anything alone/always break stuff so I’ve changed my diff oil like 4 times within the past 2 years lol I think of it as a nice flush.
     
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