TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Supertech make inconel valves. I say we ask for some exhaust valves in this style.

 

Yes please. With pictures.

 

Yes, mine was hanging over the pulley about 1/8”. I went with a longer bolt (I think the one that came with the roush) and a washer to space it properly. Now mines right on the edge, but it’s been solid for me with the stock tensioner pulley

 

Intake 105.85 overall 98.4 to the bottom of the keeper groove
Exhaust 110.4 overall 102.68 to groove

Ti in the middle, exhaust on right.

 

Well, I got this email.

 

FYI, I had to replace my IC Lid and asked Magnuson and here are the sizes. I paid too much for ones from Toyota and SCOL. (Note the SCOL one was a unglued cord and ~.97" in diameter and Toyota one was a glued o-ring and ~.11" possibly 3/32 vs 3mm but glued was much easier to keep in groove and I pinched 2 cords possibly b/c they were small and moved)

my tip for removing I/C - undo bolts on lid and remove > mark front she that fits in notch on lid > place back in s/c and use hand tool to loosen 12mm bolt > remove unit and finish removal > align with mark for reassembly and be careful not to move with prongs in place. I reassembled upside down and optional use dab of sealant or contact cement to keep them in place. May not be bad to lid dab of silicone or Coolant on oring for that slight lateral movement that could happen during assembly

• 2 x size 208 9452K187 (I went with same size Viton ones but lots of size options)
• Lid Seal - 3/32" N-Buna cord 36.5" https://www.mcmaster.com/9407K11/
• McMaster also does custom made o-rings - a 3/32" made o-ring is ~$9 https://www.mcmaster.com/1169N12

 

So I need to rev mine out to 7000 Rpms in the spring and see what she makes on the dyno? Planning on putting the 3.73 rear ended in it and then getting it dynoed. Hoping for a t56 swap by then but we will see money wise how that goes.

 

I'm a bit confused... I have some minor weeping around my lid and plan to replace everything when I pull apart to change the nose oil and check the spark plugs... What are the quantities of each needed to replace? Do you have 98 spare of those first o-rings in that 100-pack?

 

I remembered incorrectly, the choices are +1mm or +1.5mm intake and +1 exhaust.

 

Just need one of the big orings or a piece of cord and 2x the 208's but you only need the 208's if you are replacing the lid. They are hidden under the Intercooler. If anyone needs a 208 I'll have some extras in the 25 pack just shoot me a pm. I'm buying the premade o-rings so wont have one for couple weeks.

 

This is good to know. I wanted to buy a couple spares when I step up the intercooler lid bolts to m8

 

I really wanna try to see if the new dual vvti magnuson charger will fit on the single vvti motor. By looking at it, it seems like it would fit. Only Probly would be the pulley cuz it runs off the Normal belt. So something would have to be made to step out the pulley a little bit. Anyone have any thoughts on this. Or anyone tried?

 

With enough time and money anything is possible.

 

Start reading… https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0...Runner_Roller_Rocker_Low_Res.pdf?v=1614723402

It is interesting… As far as the block, bolts/studs and such haven't changed it looks like it's just bolt on like the MP90... You'd just want to get the supercharger kit without the handheld tuner since that obviously wouldn't be the right tune for our ECUs.

It looks like the thermostat is different where you remove the actual thermostat from the plastic housing and install it into a metal replacement that reroutes the coolant hose for clearance.

 

The intake manifold port layout is different. You’ll need to have a new lower intake manifold plenum cnc’d or a plenum adapter to account for the difference in port location and shape. I believe the mounting locations are slightly different as well.

Then you’d have to work out the plumbing (not hard) and belt routing (potentially a bit of work) but it’s doable.

I’d just go ProCharger or turbo and that’s coming from someone with a strong preference towards positive displacement blowers for an application like the Tacoma.

 

need some tool advice- ive never owned a 1/2" drive that fit correctly to release tension on the s/c tensioner. every one either had a bulky head that gave me fits on the fan blades or had interference issues with space for other parts. ive borrowed them in past uses but tired of that. good length is important as ill be doing this myself. im not afraid to spend money on a quality tool. but i will have a custom one made if the answer is a 400$ matco.

 

i generally just use a breaker bar. and the only one i have is a 3/8 that i put an adapter on

 

my g

my fan center ring always gets caught on the head. tried a breaker but could never get correct clock timing. maybe a 1/2" ractchet with a bent lever bar?
my tq wrecnh can do it but its a bastard to get on and off.

 

Dude the GearWrench one is amazing. It used to be only $50, not sure what it’s worth today.

 

I've got one that looks like this. Cheap and works great and have it stashed in cubby under rear seat at all times.