What else should I do while in there?

So just started the process of doing intake plenum gaskets, check/ adjust valve clearance, new valve cover gaskets and installing new injectors.
What else should I check/ replace while I have the valve covers and intake plenum off?
What are y’all’s opinions of clicking a torque wrench on the head bolts while they’re looking at me?
Thanks!

 

Don't touch the head bolts AT ALL. Unless you're going full send on new head gaskets and bolts.

Might as well do the spark plugs while you're in there if you haven't recently.

 

There are a few vacuum hoses which are pretty much only accessible once you have the intake manifold off. I posted the same thing with a diagram to another member recently.. I'll dig it up tomorrow.

I also did my fuel injectors while I had all that off. Pretty easy double whammy.

 

put a sc

 

I appreciate the info! I did leave out replacing plugs but yes I’ll do those as well. Great thought on replacing the 24 year old vacuum hoses the diagram would be awesome!
And I won’t touch the head bolts

 

Spark plug and wires, PCV valve, tessa tape for your wire harness that will probably disintegrate when you touch it. Oven cleaner for your valve covers. I think some people replace the knock sensor while they are there also.

 

I found my previous thread where I detailed out many of the items you can replace while you're in that area:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-can-i-do-anything-else.742997/#post-26452420

 

Fantastic info thanks everyone! So my list is as follows:
Schley cam tools (for shim replacement)
Motor west injectors & orings
All intake gaskets
Stone valve cover gaskets
Cam plugs
Various size vacuum lines from Amazon (should I go OEM for sharp angled lines?)
Knock sensor & pigtail
16 rubber washers for ?
PCV and grommet
Fuel rail washers
Spark plugs

$6 BKR5EKB-11 NGK Spark Plug Stock # 3967

BKR5EKB-11 and wires
Supplied lube for injector orings

Am I missing anything? Thanks again!

 

16 rubber washers = for valve covers

I think you're missing the spark plug tube gaskets, FPIG/RTV

Re vac lines. There is an OEM kit from yotashop, or you can pick them out individually (which is what I did) from an online warehouse (toyota parts deal)- however, most here would say that's expensive and unnecessary. Picking each individual line is cheaper than the yotashop kit, but still far more expensive than the under 40 bucks you'd spend getting silicone tube from Amazon. So your call.

 

Thanks! I’ll get most houses via Amazon that are obvious in location, the more contorted and hard to reach hoses I’ll source individually. Sweet!

 

You guys weren’t joking about the plastic casing/loom! Glad I have 5 rolls of Tessa tape

 

Fuel pressure regulator, depending on whether you're more "fix it before it breaks" or "ain't broke don't fix it." Afterwards you'll need to order some of the plastic connector plugs that, at least for me, disintegrate when you look at them.

 

Is what I circled the FPR? I’m all about it! Which connectors?

 

Yes. That's the FPR. A few months ago I was doing something similar and had two of the injector connectors break. They get brittle with age. I would recommend swapping out the heater hoses, but after what I went through getting them unstuck and then having to reshape the metal pipes from the heater core they connect to, I wouldn't do that to you.

 

Great stuff I appreciate it. Fortunately the injector connectors all disconnected with relative ease. Where is the Knock sensor on the 5VZ?

 

There should be two on the top of the engine (under the intake manifold), between the cylinder heads, under the water bypass pipe.

 

Thanks! One knock sensor per bank? I’d heard some people say these engines only sense knock once above 3k, is that a thing? I had my doubts because s quick stab of throttle at low revs yields the characteristic “tink” of a split second of ping before (I assume) it pulls timing.

 

Yes, one per bank. Not sure about the rest of your question. I'll have to defer to others.

 

Been there. Cut them next time

 

You don't need to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator unless you have a legit reason to believe it's bad. It's a relatively expensive item, so there is no reason to throw money at it.