What to know for 100K maintenance.

Yeah I wouldn't ask anyone to endorse reckless behavior. However I find I learn the most knowing what conditions things break. More of a theoretical curiosity I guess.

I think your last question was how much brake shoe is left/has worn away... I haven't measured to confirm but the service report says 5mm in the rear. See attached.

 

Mostly done, fairly painless procedure actually.

Need to make fine adjustment to shoe spacing. I think only 3 of 4 brakes fully engage, the ebrake maxes out with little tension. I


drum came off originally with a single deadblow
didn't need specialty tools, needle nose pliers a bit of finesse got the retaining springs off
warm water, spray nine and nylon bristles cleaned all parts, pat dry
cylinder swap was a breeze
graphite anti-seize shoe points of contact(6)
reassemble, ebrake cable, 3 inward springs, flat ball joint linkage, adjust outward spring till drum is tight
crack bleed nipple, attach hose & bottle, pump brake till no bubble come out
remove drum, respace shoes till they are tight

At this point I figured all is good, but wheel still moves from manual force while ebrake is pulled. Think it's due to shoe spacing but I have yet to confirm the cylinder actually moves when brake is engaged. Did i miss anything?

 

sounds about right, e-brake will self adjust after couple backing ups and wheel is going to become tight to move.

 

another thing to remember, using e-brake in the winter is not recommended as per Toyota manual.

It's there, can't recall exact page, but will be somewhere around parking brake chapter.

 

Good to know but this is engrained in my muscle memory. I've been pulling the ebrake on my last three standard cars year round and never had an issue. I think I'll have to get burned by this before taking heed lol.

 

NOPE. I've made a mistake.

Turns out the new cylinder doesn't move at all. Reading around that they are supposed to move ~3mm(1/8"). But with my hands on them and someone else pushing the pedal then pulling the ebrake I can't feel anything with my hands on the shoes.

I don't want to claim it's the new part but I did buy a second one to keep around as a spare. If I bleed again and no movement from the first cylinder than I'll try the second.

If the second one doesn't work it's back to the drawing board for root cause.

 

You have a TRD OR. Rear brakes need to be flushed/bled with the key in the "ON" position to get the electric brake booster going, to move enough fluid. Warning: there's no outward travel stop for the wheel cylinder pistons. If you pump the brakes with the drum off, the pistons could move out of the wheel cylinder:



In 2016, I tried adjusting the parking brake by feel and couldn't get it right after 6-7 tries. Then I followed the service manual and got it right the first time:

1. Provisionally install the lugnuts (to retain the drum).
2. Remove the hole plug, and turn the adjuster to expand the shoe until the drum locks.
3. Use one screwdriver to push the little leaf spring away from the adjuster wheel. Using a 2nd screwdriver, release the adjuster 15 notches.

 

This is super helpful.

I feared this. Since swapping out the original problematic cylinder I have been very careful not to apply brakes without drums in place. After everything is installed and fully functional I want to do a post mortem on the stock cylinder because I definitely over extended it's range and popped a seal.

Yeah I picked this up in different threads.