OEM oil filters vs aftermarket?

Tony- in general I would agree with you but I’ve been reading a few posts lately on how filters and their caps have been the cause of some struggles and issues. I’m actually surprised by the number of people complaining and having issues so, for this reason alone, relocation could be an answer for those demonstrating their challenges. But, if they struggle with the OEM setup I don’t think they’d be successful in making this conversion themselves, lol.

 

Supposedly works for the third gen 2TR-FE 4 cylinder, a bit longer than the recommended

$52 90915-YZZD1 Oil Filter 1 Case (QTY 10)

90915-YZZD1. Like I said you V6 guys don’t know anyone else exists haha. We get the honest to goodness spin-on canister filter none of that plastic crap.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/90915-yzzd1-vs-90915-yzzd3.276022/
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/90915-yzzd1-vs-90915-yzzd3.276022/

 

Nope. I have had three vehicles with cartridges and never struggled. Made a poll thread here:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/diy-oil-change-poll-stock-nylon-cartridge-filter.688074/

The overwhelming outcome is that shop techs are overtightening it. When folks start doing their own oil changes after ToyotaCare and set the torque as printed on the cartridge, there are no issues.

I can remove mine with a standard 3/8in ratchet and one hand.


In the end, there just isn't anything else to complain about. After Toyota released some needed TSBs, the 3rd Gen is doing well enough that all there is to complain about are oil changes.


2nd Gen'ers need to preserve their Tacos if they don't like what we have and stay in their lane, as incorrect input (posting bad part numbers) and their opinions of our Taco just doesn't matter here.

 

Tony- I’d agree with you if you were right, but you aren’t. A poster yesterday admitted it was he who tightened his filter canister and was asking how to get it off. I’d be surprised if you didn’t read it. That thread surprised me at how many people admitted their struggles.

I don’t doubt you have no problems. Prior to yesterday I would have said nobody has any problems but people have come out admitting this. Still those having troubles are likely 5% of people but that’s still surprising to me.

 

OEM all the way

 

I am not wrong if people are not using torque wrenches.

 

I was making a joke, dippy doo. Get off your high horse.

 

Just venture a guess on how many diy-ers are using a torque wrench? Hell, I bet most don’t even know how to use them correctly but they don’t even have them. I for one, do not believe you need to torque the canister to be successful. Just a smidge over hand tight and call it a day. Hand tight alone is likely sufficient.

 

Okay asshole.

 

Enough said, woke!

 

Then, I'm not wrong. 18ft-lb (25N-m) is hand tight.

 

You must have blew right by my post saying that 2nd gen part number should work for a 3rd gen 2TR-FE 4 cylinder lol. Maybe I should say V6 owners should stay in their lane and quit posting the wrong part numbers if they don’t clarify that it’s for the V6?

Please proceed with saying V6 is the predominant 3rd gen engine therefore no need to address the 2TR-FE lol.

 

Right on, dippy do.

 

FU tony

 

I added 2 posts here. Both specify the information I provided is for the V6. See posts 16 and 39.
See, we do know you exist

 

Awesome good job! You are a rarity though!

 

How many oil changes are you up to now where you haven't had to break the housing off, Tony? Point you're trying to make is some seem to have issues but the vast majority of us are not. I've done both of my changes (not dealer). My cannister was actually under torqued from the factory as it broke loose while undoing the cannister drain plug.

With as many things as 3rg gen owners complain about, if this was a truly persistent issue seen across the board you'd be seeing way more well... complaining.

Baxter system looks cool and hopefully holds up well for anyone that goes that route.

 

I did the 5k, 40k, 50k, and 60k oil changes. My dealer did a free 30k beyond ToyotaCare for purchasing it there. At just over 65k now. 40k took a wee bit more effort than the others, but nothing that a 1/2in drive ratchet would struggle with. Between 50k and 60k, I did a 4k trip down the coast to the border, then over to Tempe for about a week, and up the inland route home. Cartridge came off easily. Just one data point, but enough for me to say that heat cycling ain't the issue. My rear drums did cook the coating, so there was certainly heat involved. Both screwing around on fun roads, and:



Further:

We bought our long gone 2001 Volvo V70 with just shy of 40k. Traded it at 140k. 10 OCIs on that cartridge which was shaped like a canister without the helpful flutes. Never an issue.


About 20k on my long gone Ural that had a cartridge-type also. 2k (recommended for dino), then 3k synthetic OCIs. The only issue there was leakage past the threads when the CHTs got high. A bit of Permatex thread sealant was all that was needed.



I think it is persistent enough around here, which was the reason for my poll thread. Sadly, TW never learns.

 

Is $7.34 per quarts of Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-20 a good deal? I’ve been comparison shopping and seems to be a pretty good price for a good oil Curious to hear what others think and would be awesome to get feedback form anyone who has run Ultra P Pennzoil in the past. Thanks for the help