‘16-newer Transfer Cases

So I did the ECGS clamshell bushing back in May when I did my HH's and CMC...ECGS recommends using 85/140 non-synthetic.

As I mentioned I bought 2 gallons of 75-90 when I did the front and rear diff's and have about ~40%+ of a gallon left. At that time I used Ravenol (gotta give the ravenol credit for being 1L, having a spour straw integrated into the lid/top) for the T-case.

 

Ah! Good stuff. I got to get around to the ECGS bushing. Stock suspension and mine has a slight vibe at times (steady or oscillating) since around 4,000mi.


The Ravenol bottle was killer and has worked great for me for 30k now. Do you happen to find any VOA info on the Redline LF?


I have a lot left over from when I did the first swap.

 

The bushing is worth the hassle (but I can't really talk since I paid a local TW member for that and my HH install and CMC.), but I'd rather nip it in the bud now vs. when it likely explodes!

Honestly haven't done any VOA research, I know that when I was looking at T-case oil options last go around it was RP, Ravenol or OE that I believe were listed as LF75W equivalent. I discovered through various threads and general comments outside of T-case gear oil specific threads that Redline recently got email confirmation from redline and the labels now reflect OEM Compatible with Toyota LF75W (part #

$89 08885-81080 TOYOTA Genuine Transfer Case Gear Oil LF 75W 1 Litre 08885-81080

08885-81080).

Side note...now with the ECGS bushing, I'm considering using the 85-140w non synthetic in the front and rear diffs, too damn many diff oil options/opinions...hurts the head sometimes.

 

https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-lv-70w75w
Last line in the screenshot is pretty specific if you ask me

 

Do you need the 85/140 if you didn’t do a gear swap and only installed the ECGS bushing?
I just installed mine and swapped out the t-case fluid with OEM.

 

I agree. Just have not been motivated to grab the part and tools. But then, part of my dream is the Free Hub Mod. Hahaha!


Yes. The RL compatibility was in this thread. I think RP is a multi grade and had some other questions regardless what their website says?


Oh yeah. I am not sure why they recommend 140 weight. I haven't bothered to dig about that at all.

 

Need... Don't think it's worded that way, more like ECGS recommends 85/140 non synthetic on the stats or install page for the bushing.

 

All the info regarding Dino VS synthetic and Lucas oil is in a download pdf on their website. Here is a screenshot of the the 3rd page of the pdf:


I don't agree with them unless you are fording deep water all the time and your axles are sucking water. When I was in fleet maintenance 20yrs ago almost everyone was switching to synthetics, all the studies and testing indicated synthetics were a win win in every category.

 

At 65k, I just swapped to the Toyota LF fluid after using Ravenol since 7k. Hilariously, the Ravenol came out looking like new engine oil and not much darker than the new LF stuff going in. No swarf or anything was seen. That is using the T case daily for 2Lo duties and a decent amount of wheeling. Of course, the 2LM is not hard on the T case.

My opinion is that doing the diff and transmission at 7k was the absolutely right thing to do, and I should still be running the factory fill in the T case. I am not even going to think about the T case until 150k or more.

 

Anyone use Motul?

 

I have over 175k mi on my 2017 and at first I used royal purple synthetic gear lube after I removed factory fluid. I didn't care for the deep purple looking fluid . When next time came to change I went straight to amzoil and never went to anything else . One of my recent changes this year I had roughly 23k mi on transfer case the amzoil and it still has decent gold look to it . Now I have amzoil front and rear diff also . Good stuff . I let time slip on me and put 53k mi on a change interval opppsy , I will not let that happen again I'm gonna try for 35k miles next time . I should probably check my maintenance log lol .