95 Tacoma 5VZFE Long / Hard Start

So so so.. hello again
I have been googling and forum browsing for about two weeks and haven’t found a great answer.
I was hoping someone on here has had the same problem as me and can tell me if this is in fact an injector related issue or if I’d be better off running through my check list further.
Truck runs absolutely mint when it started, no idle surge, no bogging, no lack of power, no poor response.

It takes 2-6 key turns to start

If it sits for 24 hours almost always starts first crank

Doesn’t matter if it’s warm or cold it’ll take a couple cranks to go, however if it’s “hot” just run into the store and back usually goes rate up.

so far I changed the fuel filter, checked battery and alternator (both quite new) the truck cranks fast and hard anyways, I pulled cylinder 1 spark plug out and it was a little wet with gas, the opposing side was not wet at all however.

I have no checked the grounds
The EFI relay or Fuel Pump relay
Haven’t checked injectors (not sure where to start there)
Or fuel pressure regulator

Originally I was going to attach to videos but it would normally me. Truck cranks strong and find just sputters while everything is turning until it comes to life. The second issue I noticed associated with this is there is a “hissing” or “bleeding pressure” noise coming from the engine and become much louder when I open the throttle body flap.

any help or insight is appreciated I don’t wanna start throwing money at things that may or may not solve my issue before I hopefully get some better input.

thanks in advance

 

Had something similar to the symptoms you described along with a missfire if the truck sat for 2-6hrs that would not move when I changed coil pack positions ended up being injector 5 sticking and the rest just being out of spec.

 

Sorry this might be a dumb question but could you clarify what you mean by changed the coil pack position?

 

Moving the coil pack is often use to chase a misfire. By doing so, the misfire will generate a code on a different cylinder because you physically moved it to a different cylinder.

 

ah gotcha, thank you.
unfortunately I don’t think I’m chasing a misfire. Once the truck does manage to start it runs perfectly, no surge, idles up and then down correctly when engine warms up, responds to throttle smoothly and I don’t get any cut or delay in acceleration when moving even up to highways speeds

 

I would venture to say you have a poor spraying injector(s) or leaking injector after shutting it off. Typically, if you have a efi relay that is going out, it usually will shut the car off while driving at any speed. If its a heat related efi relay, you usually wait there for a long period of time to allow the relay to cool down before it will start the vehicle.

Shutting it off while you run into the store for a few minutes and it won't crank, that usually is caused by a flooding cylinder (injector issue). Craving is multiple times will clear the flood and allow the vehicle to start, just like a small engine such as a chain saw or weed wacker. This is a good time to remove all the injectors and send them in for service.

 

I had this problem with my 95 3.4 about 6 or 7 years ago. It ended up being the crank position sensor. It was weird...It would take forever to start but once started it ran fine. I know...not the typical symptom's of a bad CPS but never the less it was.

 

thank you I was hoping it wasn’t an injector but most others I spoke to about it had roughly the same thing to say. I will likely be purchasing some re-man OEM’s ones and send my OEM’s off for rebuild. I’ll update the thread if this was the ticker. I appreciate the thorough right up

 

I was thinking the same thing. I wouldn’t say it’s a fuel problem since it’s on initial start up and runs fine after it’s started. Our motors don’t get primed with turn key, I think it’s tacomas in general. Sounds like a sensor problem.

 

we got two for the crank position sensor. The sensor is $78 from my local auto parts which is much cheaper then a set of injectors so I shall do that first. If it doesn’t solve it then we’ll make on. Should have this done Sunday afternoon, I’ll make sure I update, thank you folks

 

Another thing I’ve learned, sensors are the one thing I won’t go aftermarket on ever. Go oem and you won’t have to make two trips I promise you.

 

my truck also still kinda does this and ive already changed everything but the coils (I did swap them around) and cam sensors. the crank sensor is supposed to signal the pump and injectors to turn on. i would have done this already had I found a good video/write up on how to do it. i'll keep an eye on your results.

 

Its somewhat simple to do. There is one bolt and one plug. Its a bit tight in there... but I had no problem changing mine.

 

One of my local Toyota techs has OEM injectors and a sensor for a decent price so I’ll start with the sensor see if that solved it and update as I go.
thanks again guys this has been driving me insane!

 

Godspeed @Griffin6. We all won’t sleep until we know!

 

sub'd for outcome as I've had random multi-crank starts but other times starts sooner

 

Hey guys sorry I meant to tackle this issue today. I blew my axle seal and was wrestling that for the better half of the day. I plan on getting the injectors swapped over and reviewing my work from today. I will update asap

 

Be sure to check your axle breather if you blew a rear axle seal.

If it's restricted, it can cause excess pressure that can blow out a weak axle seal.

 

a flaky cam position sensor can cause the long crank hot condition. It is my understanding that the cam position sensor is used only during cranking for cam/crank correlation, after she is running it is all crankshaft position sensor input.

 

Thanks dude. I do have the breather mod, ran it up with my gas cap that still moves freely but I’ll be checking my fitting connector to my diff. the failure on the seal was pretty major 0-100 no slow leak