Bilstein 6112

Is this a common problem with everyone running on 5/6?

 

This common with most strut and spring setups. My OME front suspension did the same thing on my old truck a decade ago. I believe it’s caused by too high of spring rate, not enough rebound valving and being lifted to the point that you have little to no down travel causing the shock to top out constantly. I’m no expert though.

 

It is on my truck but this also happended on my OME (old man emu) lift.

Seems to be a byproduct of not enough rebound dampening. I'm sure there was a trade off when designing the 6112s, less dampening=less pack down on successive bumps but harsher top out on drop off
Or something similar

 

Anyone find out the exact difference between 2nd gen and 3rd gen? I just called bilstein and they said the spring rate and valving is different. Told me they don’t rebuild them but to call down south Motorsport and ask them.

 

In an overall broad sense, the 2nd gen ones have 5 clips, and can give up to 2.5 inches with no weight and 600lb springs, the 3rd gen ones have 6 clips and give up to 2 inches of lift with no weight and 600 lb springs. People have put 2nd gen ones on a 3rd gen and visa versa. Overall, you should still stick with 2nd gen ones for the second gen just to dial in the lift you want with the weight you have.

 

hmmm I’m on a set of 3rd gen 6112 and I’m on the top setting with a 1/4” spacer on the drivers side. Lol. Ops

I just found these locally for $500 with 15k miles on them. Once they wear out, I will get something for the 2nd gen for sure.
they ride fine, just a little to firm for my liking.

 

looking at your rig, knowing that it looks like the only weight that you have on the front end, in only a small amount anyway is your sliders, with no bumper, winch, or aftermarket skid plates, with the springs set at the top setting it still might be a little bit firm due to the preload that you have on your springs being at the top setting. Even if you lowered it down to the fifth or even fourth setting with the 600 pound springs, it might give you a more comfortable ride and you may lose maybe 1/2 an inch in the front. you could do this until you have the ability to get 2nd gen ones. Once you start adding more weight like an aftermarket bumper, a skid plate trio, wench etc., then you can switch out for the bilstein 650 lb springs but you should be fine for now.

 

Getting excited, this came is yesterday. already installed 5160's in the rear. I already have Icon AAL ready for install.

During install, I am thinking of doing U-Bolt flip. Anything else recommended? This will be my first "lift" 2020 TRD Sport

 

Stupid question but from the looks of it, is your spring clips offset for the lean? It looks, in the picture, like you have the one on the left set on the fifth (or so) clip and the one on the right set on the sixth clip. Am I correct in seeing that? If so, obviously remember that the one on the sixth clip will go on the driver side. Other than that, you may want to think about aftermarket upper control arms due to the settings that you currently have on your truck springs. It will bring you very close to the limit of the lift for your factory upper control arms and also give you more articulation as well as more adjustability to put on larger tires with more castor for the alignment. They are not 100% necessary, but highly recommended. Some people go with JBA, some go with SPC, some go with Dirt King with the Delta Joints. Pretty much anyone of those three will work good for you. I personally have the JBA and have never had an issue in the past 3 1/2 years. Doing the U-Bolt Flip kit is very nice to have but not necessarily 100% needed but it also depends upon what you are going to be doing with the truck especially if you are going to be wheeling with it fairly aggressively or if it is just a daily driver with some mild "fire trails." I highly recommend, if you do go with the flip kit, the ones from Archive garage (@ARCHIVE )are absolutely top-notch and it comes with everything that you need. they are extremely comfortable while also maintaining significant support. Do you have the ECGS front driver side bushing to replace your needle bearing? Did you also get the carrier bearing drop from ARB (Not the front diff drop, you will not need that) to help out with possible driveline vibrations?

 

Good info, thank you. It is set to 5/4 clips. I did not get the ECGS or carrier bearing drop. I am going for 2" lift. I will look into that. Great info!

The reason for the U-Bolt flip thinking is, I will be there anyway doing the AAL.

Hoping this isn't going to be too complicated.

 

I've got around 800mi on my lift now and I don't see a need for limit straps, yet. I do have icon tubular uca's with the Delta joint though. The Delta joint does allow more articulation than sealed ball joints. I did use the wheelers superbumps also. No thumps and no spring contact with the shock so far. Again, my goal was close to 3" of lift and maintain a good ride. Very happy with the ride. Hope this helps.

 

After doing more research I better understand how the suspension works. Regardless of 6112 or any other shock, ultimately we would want limit straps to prevent over-extension and thus potential shock damage when wheeling. They are basically cheap insurance to protect your shocks and other stuff like ball joints at full droop.

Daily driving it probably doesn't matter unless you have some monster potholes, commute through unmaintained forest roads, or do sweet jumps like the Dukes of Hazard trying to escape Boss Hog.

Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to put on limit straps a bit down the road when I get a welder and it isn't completely frozen outside. Cheers.

 

It would not, (hurt), for all of us to have limit straps. The question was whether or not they are needed. Over-extension, and shock damage are key factors. At full extension I am not making any spring contact with my shock. That's why I didn't use limit straps, I along with two off-road shops I do business with don't see them as (needed). Hope this helps.

 

I appreciate your feedback but I have my answer now. The only true answer is that NEED for limit straps is determined by USAGE. Mall crawling? Not really necessary. Wheeling? Yes, necessary if you don't want to risk damage. Alternately don't run straps and live with the risk. People should make their own choice based on risk tolerance and use case.

I'm going to upgrade in near future to an aftermarket UCA and extended length 2.5 coilovers. Straps will be cheap insurance to protect the new parts. I'd be foolish not to start thinking about them with those type of upgrades in mind.

Back on topic because this is a 6112 thread: For me the 6112's have been great and I don't see many better options for our vehicles for the money. 10/10 would buy again if I only had the stock suspension, it's a no-brainer.

 

Most people that are using, and need, limit straps are running long travel suspension setups. Most, like me, are running extended travel suspensions. Very smart people who do this for a living have determined, after full extension inspection that my setup doesn't need limit straps regardless of use. That being said, it wouldn't hurt to run them if a person chose to. Hope this helps.

 

650lb coils going in Monday get back a little lift from full skids , sliders.

 

Keep us posted on your after numbers hub to fender!

 

I will for sure. Right now on 32’s hub to fender 22 1/4” / ground to fender 37 1/4” or a little under

 

Hey Guys - Just got done installing 6112/5100 combo yesterday, I did 4/5 setting with a 3/8 spacer front and 1.5 inch single AAL and a 1/2 inch block on rear. Before and after hub to flare measurements below:

DF 20.5 to 22.75
PF 21 to 23
DR 21.5 to 23.5
PR 22 to 23.75

 

Looks really good. How's your ride?