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Diff swap

Discussion in 'North West' started by PNdub_Taco, Jan 26, 2022.

  1. Jan 26, 2022 at 11:51 AM
    #1
    PNdub_Taco

    PNdub_Taco [OP] Member

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    First Name:
    Chris
    Socal/Washington State
    Vehicle:
    2011 Regular Cab Tacoma 4cyl 5spd 4x4
    Howdy,

    Anyone on here ever swap out there 3rd member and front clamshell on a 2nd gen Tacoma 4x4?
    I just picked up a 2011 Regular cab 4x4 5spd with the 4banger and I’m getting it re-geared by east coast gear supply and they handle the gear swap n all that, then ship you the diffs, then basically all you gotta do is swap out the old, and swap in the new.

    I’m kinda limited on tools n space , so if anyone has experience in doing this and is down to lend a hand, and show me the ropes I’d really appreciate it. Can kick you down some cash and provide beer of course! Im in kitsap county btw.

    Please lmk. Thanks!
     
  2. Jan 27, 2022 at 11:00 AM
    #2
    mountaincrawler

    mountaincrawler Well-Known Member

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    Hillsboro, OR
    Vehicle:
    2010 4x4 OR MT
    3" Lift, 35s, 4.88s, Front eLocker, Steel Bumpers, Sliders, URD Clutch Details 3" Lift (AllPro Leafs with Walker Evans 2.5" shocks & Walker Evans 2.5" Non Res Coilovers) Total Chaos UCAs 35" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 17x9 Fuel Offroad Shok D664 4.88 Yukon Diff Gears (ECGS 3rd member) Harrop Elocker (front) Pelfreybilt Front Bumper w/ center hoop Pelfreybilt High Clearance Rear Bumper Pelfreybilt IFS Skid Plate Pelfreybilt Weld On Sliders URD Stage 2 Clutch and Flywheel Relentless Cab Mount Chop Plates ARB Air Compressor AllPro U-Bolt Flip Kit Amp Research BedXtender HD MAX Relentless Bed Rail DUAL Quick Fist Mounts Sport Grille OEM Roof Rack Marshall Offroad Fabrication Bed Bars TEPUI Explorer Series Kukenam 3 Roof Top Tent
    I did this same swap a couple of years ago with a buddy. Pretty straight forward. Unfortunately I am unable to help but ECGS has a good write up on removing the front clamshell and a video on removing the rear 3rd member.
    https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/p-23663-techarticles.html

    There's a lot of good information on the forum here as well; like this one.
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...d-installation-of-e-locker-3rd-member.193828/

    Doesn't require much in the way of special tools. You'll need the 35mm socket for the front axle nuts. Getting the front clamshell in and out with the ADD tube attached is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle and you have to be careful to not damage the breather.

    Having someone to help is definitely nice but familiarizing yourself with the process is good and might make you feel better about doing it, with or without someone's help.
     
  3. Jan 27, 2022 at 7:55 PM
    #3
    Shadowhunter

    Shadowhunter Well-Known Member

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    Birdsview Washington
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    13’ DCSB MT Sport
    Front and Rear Locked, 35’s, Chevy 63” swap, Fox Suspension and a bunch of other shit too long to list.
    You don’t have to take the 35mm nut off the CV. Take off the brake caliper, remove the speed sensor and wiring. Then un bolt the bottom two bolts on the spindle and it will swing out of the way enough when you pop the Cvs out with a pry bar to pull the diff and stab it back in. You will need a 10mm or 12mm Allen to remove the stud from the back mount on the front diff and remove the fill and drain plugs. You will need a buddy to put it back up and in. It’s a bastard. The rear is pretty easy the only special tool you will need is a good 10mm line wrench to pop the brake line off the wheel cylinder. Watch a couple YouTube videos on the front diff and watch the angle the front diff goes in it’s kinda a hook shot.
     
    TimberTiger likes this.
  4. Jan 27, 2022 at 8:06 PM
    #4
    Dalandser

    Dalandser ¡Me Gustan Las Tacos-mas!

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    Downey
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    Empty Wallet Mod
    Autozone and other parts stores loan axle nut sockets for free - no need to buy one if you don’t have one. Then again it makes sense to get one if you plan on wheeling hard enough to break an axle.
     
  5. Jan 28, 2022 at 7:09 AM
    #5
    mountaincrawler

    mountaincrawler Well-Known Member

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    Hillsboro, OR
    Vehicle:
    2010 4x4 OR MT
    3" Lift, 35s, 4.88s, Front eLocker, Steel Bumpers, Sliders, URD Clutch Details 3" Lift (AllPro Leafs with Walker Evans 2.5" shocks & Walker Evans 2.5" Non Res Coilovers) Total Chaos UCAs 35" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 17x9 Fuel Offroad Shok D664 4.88 Yukon Diff Gears (ECGS 3rd member) Harrop Elocker (front) Pelfreybilt Front Bumper w/ center hoop Pelfreybilt High Clearance Rear Bumper Pelfreybilt IFS Skid Plate Pelfreybilt Weld On Sliders URD Stage 2 Clutch and Flywheel Relentless Cab Mount Chop Plates ARB Air Compressor AllPro U-Bolt Flip Kit Amp Research BedXtender HD MAX Relentless Bed Rail DUAL Quick Fist Mounts Sport Grille OEM Roof Rack Marshall Offroad Fabrication Bed Bars TEPUI Explorer Series Kukenam 3 Roof Top Tent
    Agreed, you will want to have the 35mm socket regardless if you're going to have one of these trucks. Becoming adept at removing the CV will pay dividends.

    I was able to do the rear without disconnecting the brakes, per the thread I linked. It didn't necessarily feel great lol but you can just get away with it if you're really trying to avoid having to bleed the brakes when you're done.
     
  6. Jan 28, 2022 at 10:19 AM
    #6
    TimberTiger

    TimberTiger Get Western! ... ig @tcave87

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    Arlington, Wa
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    2014 DCSB Trd off road , 2002 Ext Cab Trd
    2014 DCSB: nitro 4.30 gears, Eaton/Harrop front locker, Bilstein 6112's w/ 650#, Camburg ball joint UCA's, Marlin cam tab gussets, Wheelers superbumps, Deaver U402 stage 2 leaves, bilstein b110's, u bolt flip, Archive hammer hangers, ADV weld co hybrid sliders, ADV weld co bed rack or Leer 180 w/ windoors, full RCI skids, SCS stealth 6, 35x10.5 kenda RT, ATH fab HC rear bumper, US offroad stealth front winch bumper, Smittybuilt x20 10k winch, ARB simpson III rtt, plenty of dents and scratches Now Sold 2002 TRD ext cab: 06 TRD Tundra coils, tundra 5100s, wheelers HD 3 leaf AAL, rear 5100s, ARB front bumper, SkidRow front skid, Leer commercial cap with windoors, 285/75r16 Kelly Safari TSR

    This is exactly what i did too. In the rear i was able to unbolt the hard brake lines from the axle and carefully pull the axle shafts out far enough to get the diff out without having to undo the brake lines and bleed brakes after. If you have ATRAC the brakes practically bleed themselves though which is nice.
     

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