Footwell Lights That Don’t Suck

Yes - connects to the passenger side light. I'll let you know how my install goes.

 

There are no wires branching from the overhead console switch (Door, OFF, ON) to the dash.
@kmorgan3 has had the intercept harness for the overhead console (R44) for some time now. He might want to assemble a 2.0 and 3.0 version of it for you and others.
One would have what is required for your taste. But still a pair of wires need to be routed from the overhead (console removal) down by driver's pillar (no disconnecting harness there), secured along the way by your preferred method. Finishing at the module (optional).

 

Got mine installed today, probably took me around 45 minutes, 15 of that was multiple failed attempts to get the wire to drop down along side the dash and then another 15 trying to get everything crammed back in the A pillar and get the pin lined up properly. They look awesome though so it was worth the time and effort.

 

I use a super long, heavy duty plastic zip tie as a fish wire for projects like this. Works great. Strong enough yet plastic won’t hurt any wire insulation or scratch up anything.

 

Installed my rear footwell kit from VLEDs and they add a nice addition to the fronts. The wife loves them. Keep up the good work. I ran the wires down beside the center console on the passenger side and then over to drivers side seat. Wire is nicely hid and out of the way. Plenty of room to move seat FWD/BWD.
Now what will be next?

 

Oh we have a laundry list of stuff coming…

 

Finally got my set installed, one of the LEDs was skewed, doesn’t appear to affect function tho . Anyone have a hell of a time getting their LED to stick to this plastic? I scrubbed the hell out of my plastic with alcohol and lint free wipes and she just didn’t wanna stick. I had to switch to my own grey

$6 3m vhb 100x200mm~ (4" X8") Double Sided Foam Adhesive Sheet Tape 5952 Automotive Mounting Industrial Grade Very High Bond 5952 (1 Sheets 100x200mm)

3m vhb, even those had trouble. Also stuck my pwm to the side of my meso fuse cover haha.

 

Yeah I had a little bit of trouble getting mine to stick. I also used some 3m I had and it seemed to work out just fine.

 

Like using the hood latch to trigger an under hood light? The center screen on the gauge cluster tells me when the hood is open, so there must be a sensor that we can borrow the signal from.

 

Hmmmm….. you don’t say?

I have a set of Matt Gecko under hood lights I haven’t gotten around to. Is this going to obsolete these before I even get them installed?

 

There is a little tiny tab on the latch that makes contact and likely closes the circuit for the hood open display. I didn't bother with that for my light activation but instead, replaced one of the 4 rubber hood bumpers attached to the front crossmember, with one of these grounding plunger switches. I ran power for the light to my accessory Power Tray so it's fused appropriately, and then ran the ground to the newly installed plunger switch. I used 1 Harbor Freight Rock Light mounted in the front end of the hood in the center and it throws great light throughout the engine bay. Cheap and easy.

XtremeAmazing Universal Auto Car Trunk Door Alarm Light Hood Jamb Pin Switch Bonnet Pack of 4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B086P36KB3?ie=UTF8

 

You just need a simple pin switch for that one; no need to get overly complicated.

 

Those switches have been unreliable for me in the past. Likely due to corrosion.

 

BTW...the footwell lights are badass! I finally got them installed right after replacing my ECU.

 

Everything need to be overly complicated.

 

OEM alarm mod for tailgate and rear camper door - anyone try it?

 

Damn I must have gotten a faulty wire harness. Did the install and everything lights up but when I started the truck I got an error message that my lane departure system is malfunctioning. Took the a-pillar off again and fiddled with the harness and could get it to go away. Either I put too much of a bend in it when stuffing it back in the a-pillar or it has a loose connection. Just wiggling it gets the malfunction to come on and go away. Pressing the connector in tightly makes it go away but when I let go the malfunction warning comes on again. Put the stock connectors back together and all is fine. Awaiting a call back from Guild where I purchased them from. Hopefully get a replacement harness quickly. They did look good while I had them hooked up.

 

There’s probably a socket contact (female side) that pulled out from being bent or other. You can remove tape from the harness and press the contacts into place from the wire side. Gently grab each wire and press it into the back of the connector. Chances are you’ll hear one of them “click” back into place if it came loose. Or we can just replace it — no biggy.