Drive line Backlash is killing me

Hey all, on mobile so forgive the formatting.

Been having some drive line slop for a while but thought nothing of it, it's a lifted truck with 200k miles it's gonna have some give but recently it started getting worse

So I got under the truck and took the following video https://youtu.be/ixojm9wQBZs

It's situated under the rear driveshaft hanger and I start the truck, put it in gear at idle, and let the clutch (Manual Trans) out slowly...you can see the clunk! Very conscerned.

So I started wiggling things, the driveshaft hanger is loose but that's not the bit worrythe worry is a metallic sound coming from the transmission I hear while working the driveshaft back and forth with my hands...

Here is a video with sound of that... It sounds like loose change on an ash tray... That sound is inside my transmission housing.
https://youtu.be/_8A15RivtQU

At this point I'm at a loss, not much of a transmission guy, but if anyone has guesses let me have them! I'll be pulling it apart this weekend so stay tuned lol.

 

And if anyone has good opinions on a new driveshaft hanger coupling let me know, I do at least need to replace that. Thanks all!

 

I have a 2nd gen and purchased this carrier support. Driveshaft Support Carrier Bearing IEDLS 211590-1XS. Link: iedls.com/Online_Store/3/12. It does take some modifications to the hanger.
However, I got tired of messing with the driveshaft and carrier bearings and purchased a Tom Woods Driveshaft. Link: https://4xshaft.com/
Tom Woods are reasonably priced.

 

I think what you're calling "the hanger" is the carrier bearing. The carrier bearing is supposed to have some play to it. It's a rubber isolated bearing- over time the rubber breaks down.

Toyota Parts:
carrier bearing:

$142 37230-35130 Toyota Clutch Bearing - 37230-35130

37230-35130
Staking Nut: 90080-17239

The OEM bearing is not cheap. I got a parts store replacement and had to replace that within two years. Went with OEM the second time.

There is a very specific process for reinstalling/torquing the nut. Find yourself a digital copy of the FSM and look that up. You have to torque the nut to a specific number to seat the bearing, then back that off, and retorque to the nut spec (around 50 ft lbs).

And- As you'll be separating the intermediate shaft (front section) from the propeller shaft to replace the carrier bearing, you need to make very good match marks. You'll be real bummed if you get that back together incorrectly. Don't forget about the slip yoke- you'll want to mark that as well incase it separates while you're moving the shaft around.

 

double cardan going bad ?


U Joint Replacement Questions | Tacoma World


And there's always the nuclear option....

2004 Toyota Tacoma Drive Shaft - Toyota Tacoma Driveline - Free Shipping (wholesaleimportparts.com)

HOWEVER they say its not for LIFTED truckssss......

 

Splendid! The carrier bearing will be replaced for sure...

Anyone got ideas about the clunking from the transmission? I wonder... Thing is it looks all good and then it pops forward a little, idk what space it could be settling into unless there's maybe a severe backlash take-up somewhere in there.

 

I don't hear a clunking from the transmission in your videos.

You're going to have to inspect the u joints once you pull the drive shaft. At the same time, inspect the output bearing on the transmission and input bearing on the pnion. Once you get the drive shaft squared away, then you can worry about what's on either end of it.

 

Also when they replaced my engine .....the slip joint now had too much exposure....
I had to put in a rear drive line spacer and slide line forward....

Before the fix .....my carrier bearing was slid all the way back like yours.....

 

Do you ever grease the driveshaft zerks ? That Ujoint looks mighty dry and there's no grease flung on surrounding metal.

 

Ujoints look toasted as well. I'd just replace all of them.

 

Yeah a V6 lifted 4x4 vehicle plays havoc on drivelines......better take care of them.....
only the trd's were designed for lift......with a carrier spacer...

 

They all run the same driveline. Trd makes no difference.

 

Yeah that carrier bearing looks to have a lot of play.

Spicer makes the OEM carrier bearing for these trucks and you can get it through them for a lot cheaper. Has the identical TOYOTA stamp and p/n stamped into the bushing material. I got mine on Amazon awhile back for around $70, been running it for over a year



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1st-gen-genuine-oem-carrier-bearing-for-79.583219/

and yeah you should get a new stake nut for it, got mine from the dealer for a few dollars.