Question about fox shocks and deaver leafs

Hello TacomaWorld! I’m new to the 4x4 scene and would appreciate some advice on a predicament I have involving a/m parts and how compatible they are with each other. I am in the process of doing everything necessary to fit 35’s, I am a body tech and am not scared of taking a hammer and a welder to a new truck. However, suspension work is not my strong suit.

The parts I ordered are:
fox tacoma coilovers 2.5 series with R/R, 0-3” lift (

$1,604 880-02-418 Coilover and Upper Control Arm Kit

880-02-418) for the front, total chaos UCA’s, DRT fab cab mount relocation kit, 2” deaver U402 stage 3 leaf springs (dev-u402), archive garage hammer hangers with cross bar (staying soa), wheeler’s superbumps in front and rear, and fox toyota ‘tundra’ 2.5 series (9.4”) with r/r, 0-1.5” lift (883-26-006).

I have yet to figure out what to do with the exposed air intake once the fender liners come out- but thats not my main concern. I can resort to a snorkel if nothing else. But the rear shocks are what have me concerned. They say its only a 0-1.5” lift, while the deavers are gonna put me up 2”s. Now wouldn’t that mean my shocks are going to overextend by half an inch when fully flexed/floating? I’ve done some offroading in the truck and its plenty capable as is, but I have noticed the rear wheels will occasionally stay suspended in the air. I could’ve gone long travel (and probably should’ve at this point) but i’m not trying to turn this into a wheeler, just a reliable road tripper that I can take offroad when I want to go camping. Will the half inch too short be an issue for when my rear wheels inevitably start to float? If so, are there other routes to go (limit straps, or something?) or should I try to return these for shocks that are meant for a 2-3” lift? Thanks a bunch in advance, really appreciate anyone’s 2 cents.

Ethan

 

First you will probably get more than 2” from a Deaver stage 3 unless carrying 800lbs or more constant load, I’m getting 2.5” from stage 2 with 400lbs. Shocks topping out from droop is not as hard on them as bottoming out from compression which extended bumps will prevent. I’d scrap the 35s plan unless you plan to regear to 529s, even then your “reliable road tripper” is going to be pretty dependent on alot of gas stations on your route because it’s likely that 12-14 mpg will be optimistic. 35s look cool, but that’s a lot of work and undoubtedly reduces reliability to some degree due to the added unsprung weight (components will wear faster).

 

The Tundra shocks are 0-1.5" on a Tundra but 1.5"-3" on a Tacoma

 

Great! Thank you for that information. Just what I wanted to hear, lol.

 

Can you cancel what you ordered? Read up on what www.jdfabrication.com offers or give them a call and talk to Harry.

 

I have a RTT, bed rack supporting the RTT, and a high clearance rear bumper with a swing out arm. So thats a bit of weight already, about 600lbs. Then when i’m all loaded up with camping gear add an extra 200 ish lbs. The deaver stage 3’s are for 700-1000lb., so I think i’m good there. Yeah, the mpg is gonna suck.. so i do plan to regear at some point. Your point about stopping at gas stations every few hours is gonna be inconvenient, i agree. I haven’t looked to see if there are any larger fuel tank replacements, i might need to do something of the sort. Or maybe go EV conversion once that hits the market. But anyways, thanks for your response.

 

Cancelling everything i ordered is not something i’m interested in doing. I’m pretty confident in the research i’ve done with the parts i ordered. My only concern was the tundra shocks. Thanks!

 

Are you ordering the Tundra Fox from AccuTune offroad? That's where I originally saw the information.

 

Any bolt in rear setup with the stock shock location will almost always have the shock as the limiting factor. For the most part unless you are jumping the truck, the shocks can take it fine without limit straps.

 

I didnt order directly from accutune, but it is the same part # from their site. So i’d assume since they’re offering it, it’d work for my application?

 

what components wear faster with larger tires, and is there proof of this happening?

 

this is the truth.

 

For the most part everything is fine with bigger tires, its the hard wheeling that wears things out. Im at 45k and have worn out the stock inner tie rods and lca bushings, otherwise everything else is either fine or has been upgraded.

 

Brake pads, power steering pump /rack, tie rod ends, u joints etc. everything gets more wear. They are all replaceable, it’s just the cost of doing business for larger tires. If someone is willing to do the work required to fit 35s they are typically going to be working on their truck and will be able to handle the slight increase in service. It looks like Opie did his research and understands what he’s getting into, but many that come on here don’t and are surprised when they have to replace things or make additional mods to get it to work.

 

I believe you'll need different lower bushings for the tundra shocks to fit the tacoma. I had them on my last tacoma but bought through Accutune and that's something they just do for those shocks along with valving to the application. I would assume the stock Fox valving on the Tundra will be stiff on the Tacoma and add higher load rated 35's the ride might a little jarring. Can always send them in later to get valved if needed.

 

I've done some more research since making my post- you are correct about the lower bushings being incorrect for my application. theres a collar that needs to be ground down on the bushing by an 1/8th inch for it to fit in the mounting location. So thats easy enough.. but I havent a clue on how shocks are valved, or any of the tuning process. the shocks do have the DSC where you can stiffen/dampen the shock though. hopefully that can help if it's too stiff lol.