Aftermarket fuel pump

I think my 3.4L 2wd will need a fuel pump eventually. Original at 302k. I'm getting some high speed minor surging uphill. Where the load goes down as the road gradually flattens out in spots at steady 55mph speed, it will do a brief acceleration on its own. I've replaced, cleaned or serviced so many other things, and had mechanics look at it, that I feel like I eliminated the engine, transmission, air intake, EGR, and fuel filter as the causes. Maybe I'm wrong, or it's an electrical issue? At this rate of worsening I still have a while. Startup crank time seems normal still. I'll let the mechanic do the work when it's time.

OEM pump $483, MasterPro $89, Import Direct $103. Is there a PSI or flow rate I should be aware of? I'm ok with a cheap one not having the life of OEM, as long as it smooths the fuel delivery out, if that's the issue.

 

Denso is a good brand

 

Ok, I'll see if the mechanic can do Denso. I heard Denso might even be who makes the OEM one?

 

Denso makes a lot of stuff for Toyota, even if they aren't the OE fuel pump supplier it's still a good brand to go with. I wouldn't trust an $89 fuel pump to be honest

 

I just looked up the Denso and apparently it can be had for around $90 lol... Disregard the end of my last comment.

Crazy that the OEM one is so much more than that.

 

Yeah, crazy cheap now that I look around at other stores.

$82 Denso 951-0001 Fuel Pump

Denso 951-0001 is the one. Labor is gonna be triple that or so.

 

I just replaced my fuel pump myself with

$82 Denso 951-0001 Fuel Pump

the Denso model for $74 (the price at the time I'm writing this). I also replaced

$12 Delphi FS0093 Fuel Pump Strainer

the strainer and

$22 Spectra Premium Spectra Fuel Pump Tank Seal LO74

tank seal.

 

Good to know! Is it important to replace the strainer and tank seal when doing this? Also will draining fuel be necessary, or only a couple gallons in? I haven't seen exactly where the pump is in the tank. I'm pretty sure I'll have the mechanic do this one, but I want as little opportunity for screw ups as possible.

 

Yeah you either drop the tank or remove the bed, either way works. I've heard that removing the bed is easier, just 6 bolts and 2 people to lift it. Pump should be right on top, its not inside the tank like it is on 2nd gens. If you remove the bed then no need to drain the whole tank, if dropping the tank then you probably want it close to empty.

 

Well like I said, I just did all this. I dropped the tank instead of removing the bed, which I do not recommend. It's a labor-intensive PITA to do it this way.

Because I like to fix things completely and correctly the first time, I replaced the strainer and seal. I hope for another 100-150K miles before I have to do this again.

I siphoned off lotsa gas with a straight hose (not curled up - very important). Once the tank was off the vehicle, I drained the rest and wiped away some remaining loose small debris in the tank with a rag.