Long Travel BS Thread

Run the straps over the axle tube close to the shock mounts. How I always do mine.

I towed with a Ram 1500 single cab short bed for years with no issues. Air bags helped stop the sway.

As far as trailer brakes, turn them up and pinch the things on the brake controller going as idle. You should be able to feel the trailer slowing the truck down and almost come to a stop.

and the down shifting is normal. 1500 did it and 2500 does it hard when the engine brake and tow/haul mode is on. It’s using the engine to help slow you down

my Ram 1500

And my new 2500 Cummins I picked up over the summer. Tows way better.

 

I was planning to go over the axle tube, but there wasn’t enough room without hitting the tire if I went to the d ring. I may have to weld new d rings closer to the center since the angle is so steep. Really hoping there’s a better answer, but the top links seemed to work well unless I’m missing something safety wise.

the truck didn’t come with a brake controller, but I have one on order and will use Forscan to activate it on the computer end. I was under the impression if you have a seven pin connector and no brake controller you’d have brakes, just no ability to change the strength.

 

Place the front straps around the inner part of the a arms and you can add a pull down strap in the rear to compress the suspension and hold the truck down... these mods will keep the truck/trailer really stable especially at 90+ mph

 

I had the fronts like that initially, but watched the slack develop hitting bumps going down the driveway and quickly changed that. Worked fine for the dirt bikes, but scary as shit when the trucks suspension compresses

 

For the front, that trailer anchor isn’t suitable in my opinion. Too much leverage on it. I use these stake pocket D rings and they work great.

VULCAN Silver Stake Pocket D-Ring Assembly - 4 Pack

$73 VULCAN Silver Stake Pocket D-Ring Assembly - 4 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PCWD7FZ?_encoding=UTF8


Rear, I would get some D rings welded on straight back and go around the axle tube and hook to those. I guess for the front you could weld some D rings on too while you’re in there instead of the stake pockets.

As Harry said, front LCA pocket. If you weld the D rings on the side/use the stake pocket D rings, that angles the front straps outward and the lines won’t go slack at all over bumps.

Weight distribution wise it does look nose heavy considering how light your rear end is.

As far as the brakes, the controller will let you up the gain and you’ll feel them working. The way to set gain is get up to 15-20 mph and activate the trailer brakes from the brake controller. Find the point where the tires lock up and then back off the gain a bit.

 

I’m saying you need to move the front straps from where they are by the Uniball to the meaty part of the lower arm and then have them pull towards the corner of the trailer. Additionally you can add a pull down strap in the rear

 

You could also try putting the truck on backwards. That’ll let you get it further forward while keeping weight over the axles.

 

I had it like that initially. Seems like closer to the tire would be better so no slack develops when the suspension compresses?

 

Totally didn’t think about that…

 

I’m looking into new d rings and a WD hitch to get some weight off the rear. Not sure if I’ll be ready for AOP in two weeks.

 

Shit that might solve a lot of the problems actually…

 

Horrible idea, you won’t have the tongue weight needed and the trailer will be wagging like a dog. The only thing I’d put on a trailer backwards is a rear engine buggy

 

If the weight is distributed on the trailer how it is now it should give me better tie down options for the rear axle at least. Probably shittier aerodynamics. I don’t know. I feel rushed to get it going for the trip three hours away with my family in the truck too and I’m not confident in it yet. May have to take some time with it.

 

It’s worth giving it a shot. And depending just how much you want to go down the rabbit hole, there are scales you can use to measure tongue weight. It should be ~10%-13% of your load, so in your case like 700 lbs. Could be handy to see it backwards truck is viable and just dialing everything in in general.

Sherline LM 2000 - Trailer Tongue Weight Scale 2000lb

$149 Sherline LM 2000 - Trailer Tongue Weight Scale 2000lb

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007REK28M

 

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CbS_SEBJ3A-/

 

The more I look at it loading it backwards and keeping the same weight distribution on the trailer would likely put the rear axle over the front of the trailer. Just guessing that the center of mass is around the bell housing and rotating 180 degrees about that point.

 

with no brake controller the trailer brakes won’t do anything.

 

Yeah the more I dig into it that seems to be correct. I was under the impression I just had on/off with no variability, but that doesn’t seem to be the case. Truck stops it pretty damn good without them now that I know, but I was not very impressed when I thought I was having both axles brake, too

I’ve got an OEM brake controller coming and can program it with Forscan pretty easily.

 

thought I read something else for a second

 

Yeah I took a double look first time I saw it too haha since it’s freeware/community tech shit I’m guessing it was on purpose.