New England B.S. Thread

https://chng.it/cVPG7rcRNd

If anyone is bored can you sign this haha

 

Happening in East Prov too. There was a golf course shenanigans a while back, now they’re building townhouses in what was a deserted sand pit.

I’m all for the woods but being not-from-the-area it’s insane what people “fight” to keep from getting leveled, it’ll be like a 1/4 acre lot, privately owned, and filled with litter and people lose their collective minds down here when it gets cleared and a house put on it.

Anyway. Keeping the farmland up seems worthwhile instead of the banana nut bread cases down here fighting to keep a golf course as a golf course that was a private membership and almost everyone involved, owners and all members, were not residents.

 

Yeah this is a pretty big piece of property. Part of it has community gardens which I think is pretty cool. It would be nice if they could preserve some of it

 

That sounds shenanigans. Yeah everything down here has been privately owned and a total dumpster fire of a property. Latest one being what I THOUGHT was a superfund site is now a potential 400-unit housing development.

In the defense of the angry mob, the developer said the homes would be in the 450-900k ranges. So, yeah that’s angering some people where the housing market pre-bananaland was 250-350/400k range, maybe toward 500k for the same thing they’re trying to sell for 900. There aren’t many 1mil + properties in East Providence, so there’s some grump about that.

But, ultimately we’re 10 minutes from a relatively major US city, and then a center point to commute via NY and Boston. And it’s on “water” (it’s a feeble attempt at water).

ANYWAY I’m clearly bored at work.

 

Anybody rebuilt a driveshaft for one of our trucks? I had the truck in for my state inspection this morning and the tech let me know that the u-joint at the tc end of my driveshaft has a little play in it, nothing to worry about yet, but something to keep an eye on. So, I'm looking at rebuilding, since a 1-piece isn't in the cards for a DCLB from what I've read. What are the recommended universals and carrier bearing (sounds like Toyota doesn't use a standard size spicer)? Should I consider drilling and tapping the slip joint for a zerk fitting while I have it out of the truck?

 

I just replaced my u-joints and carrier bearing. I was getting increasingly annoying vibrations when I passed 25mph, which was a result of too much play (nearly 1/2" or so) in the carrier bearing. I think the u-joints were okay but once the shaft is out you might as well replace them.
U-joints (greasable): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5922228&cc=1431544&pt=2392&jsn=29
Carrier: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6365691&jsn=10899&jsn=10899

 

I rebuilt my 2007's driveline (couple times actually). I'd strongly recommend using Toyota parts. I initially went with a Dorman carrier and Moog u-joints because the Dorman had a great warranty and Moog's were 1/4 the price of the Spicer stuff. I replaced the Dorman carrier 2 more times within about 5k miles and finally went back to a Toyota carrier. The Dorman solved the driveline vibrations I was having but the bearing itself was obviously garbage so I went back to Toyota and lived with the vibrations. I went with Moog universals initially, but 2/3 didn't fit. I shaved them a bit to make them even fit the opening. I eventually bought Spicer u-joints and they fit right up. On my 2007, I'm pretty sure Toyota was using Spicer parts, I don't know if that changed for your model year or not. I did not tap the slip joint but I did lube it up. I didn't off road it so it wasn't a huge deal for me, might be different for you and your use. Rebuilding itself isn't really overly difficult, mark the drive shaft so everything stays phased together and you'll need a u-joint press or a good bench vice. Then, it's just brute force, a little bit of the metallic massage (BFH) and maybe some penetrating oil to help work them free if this is the first time swapping them.

 

2 new acquisitions in one picture!

 

@mach1man001 nice Fuel!

 

Thanks!

 

A new bike and you finally got a Tacoma! It's about time, Rob!

 

I attempted to change the ujoints in mine a few months ago but ended up cracking the area where the c clip goes on one of the joints. Ended up having to buy a whole new drive shaft from Toyota.

 

Dislike!

 

It sucked. I was using Moog Ujoints. The first one went in fine. The second one caused the crack when pressing it in. Stay away from Moog Ujoints. Another sucky thing is the new driveshaft has non greaseable Ujoints.

 

That was the issue I had with Moog as well. I didn't press them hard enough to crack anything, but they wouldn't fit. I removed 2 of the caps and ground down the cross a little bit so I could get them to actually fit. I eventually went with Spicer u-joints and they fit right up.

 

Thanks for the tips everyone. I ordered up a set of Dana/

$25 Spicer 51330X Spicer 5-1330X U-Joint Kit 1330/SPL25 Series (OSR)

Spicer 51330X u-joints (they're non-greaseable, but HD, the SD versions are greaseable but not 'recommended' for offroad, towing, or 'extreme conditions'), and a Dana/Spicer carrier bearing. I've got a press kit that includes the adapters for universals, so I think I should be good to go. Now to go hit those prop shaft bolts with some penetrating oil for the next couple of weeks before I have a chance to get it into the garage.

 

I hate that many of them are non-greasable now. On my 250, the u joints at the front hubs are greasable, and that's it. All the rest are sealed. I'm not buying for a second that not having the ability to force out water and dirt is somehow better in the long run.

With a hydraulic press, be careful pressing the new ones in or you could end up in a situation like Turd Ferguson where you crack the driveline. That's why I like using a vice, there's only so much pressure you can put on things so there's a low risk of breakage.

 

Yeah, I'm skeptical, but we'll see how they hold up. I'll be using a ball joint press with adapters, not a hydraulic press, but as I'll probably be going ape on it with an impact tool, that's still good cautionary advice. Thanks!

 

It WILL extend the life of the part, under typical service.
Most things with a zerk, are NOT greased properly. Over greased.. then, seal fails... etc.
It's fine if one is consistent with maintenance....