Rear Seat Delete Decks

Does that mean you removed the stock plastic vent completely?

 

Also found this post where someone DID have good results with foam. It would seem you would want to use foam that is more "breathable." https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cab-vent.423899/#post-12118714

I'm also beginning to wonder if there isn't a more modern valve that could be installed as an alternative. If so, we could seal up the existing one with a metal plate, sound damper, the works. Do these accomplish the same thing?

$20 Control Devices - CR25-100 -CR25 CR Series Brass Pressure Relief Valve, 0-100 psi Adjustable Pressure Range, 1/4" Male NPT

https://www.amazon.com/Control-Devi...pressure+release+valve&qid=1650286728&sr=8-13

 

I mean, I put the MOLLE rack in, lived with it for awhile, then just put a big ABS panel behind it with stand-offs. Between that and the sound deadening mat and foam, it's back to pre-backseat panel removal levels.

 

I doubt that. You would have to break up the plastic vent assembly OR to remove it requires removing the bed. Without the bed in place the vent just unclips and can easily be pushed out.

Edit: spelling and clarity.

 

any chance you have some pics? I'm having difficulty imagining the layers involved and how it all goes together. Thanks!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...en-tacoma-today.6499/page-11393#post-26717876

 

Thanks @elricfate. I also dug back through the "What have you done..." thread to some of your older posts and think I'm getting a better picture now. The 1/4" HDPE board is between your deadener/insulation and the Molle rack. This creates a sound barrier.

So did you leave the duct open or did some kind of treatment on/around it as well?
Does the HDPE board have a cutout for the duct or is it totally in front of it? Mine sticks out a good couple of inches (2013 access cab) so putting the board in front of it would leave quite a gap between the back wall of the cab and the board. Add in the length of the spacers needed to keep the molle rack away from the board and you'll have 3-5" between the frame wall and rack front. That's too much for my tastes, me thinks.

PS - I did the door slam test today and saw the flap open/close when I did. So all good there. Also took a look at the rear seat panel I took out and saw that it's basically just felt and plastic. My next approach may be to fabricate a sound-insulated hood with just enough gap at the back wall to allow air pressure to flow. I have a 3D printer and can borrow some of that felt and use the deadener I have left over...

 

If you go a little further back, in a handful of threads (I think even this one) - you can see pictures of the back wall and MOLLE install. I pulled the jump seats and rear panel, put down butyl sound deadening, then put down a layer of closed foam sound deadening over the top of it. I covered the outside of the vent and down into the inside a little. I tried running with foam blocks in the vent for a while, got tired of it not doing much, and decided to go for the backer board instead. There is no cut out for the vent, it is behind the backer board so that road sound is forced to bounce off the back of the board first, obstructed, before moving into the cabin. It's like an acoustic maze.

In terms of stand offs, it's not much worse than when it wasn't backed by the HDPE board, it's a spare 2" more, so it hasn't lost any function and I can easily put stuff through the MOLLE panel without fighting it.

 

Did you remove the cab vent for the installation of your Molle panel?

 

I think the link to the PDF is broken. Would you be able to update it? Also where can you "pay"?

 

Try this:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U-PcrJ_OwF7ajm5OwOLf95KALH6COhga/view?usp=sharing

 

What did you cover the back wall with? That looks clean.

 

This was a fun one. Thanks OP and all the others. Really liked the look of goose gear and the versatility of the 60/40 split, so tried to copy their design. My most useful mod so far and the dog approves too. Also the first time using a pocket hole jig and router and now I'm hooked.





Got to reuse the back piece from the "Double Cab Folding Dog Platform" mod that served me well for a year.





Made some joiner brackets to lock the pieces together with scrap aluminum and rivnuts.



The single seat can go back in if needed.





Wet dog tested.

 

Hey TW,
Here’s a 60% delete I just finished that functions just like the factory seats and uses all the same mounting holes - 5 bolts revert to stock in about 10 min.


Platform is 1/2 Baltic Birch topped w knock-off Sea Dek. Bottom is edged in steel for long term durability.

Seat back folds flat. Rear cubby remains as I’ve always found it useful. 6 tie down points and some cam straps finish it off.

Not a huge increase in road noise, but I’ll probably go back and add some deadening in the future.

 

I'm 2nd gen but here's mine. Just finished yesterday.

 

ah yes, a fellow woodworker, came out great! Not sure if it’s the craftsmen or the Woodpecker tools that made it possible. either way, looks sick.

 

Ha yeah thanks. The Woodpecker tools do help for sure.

 

Very nice and well done. I'mg going to to re-do my hastily built deck and I like what you did.