Sub recommendation/advice needed

Yeah i figured if the subs dont work atleast i end up with a 350 dollar box lol. It is coming off a 2010 and into my 2012 so i hope that isnt a cause for issue. Might try to contact some audio shops around the area to see if theyre willing to test them for me.

Thanks that helps a lot actually haha

 

Im gonna pull the trigger. Also, I had a few more questions if you dont mind.What are your thoughts on the JL audio JD400/4? Would that work with my setup? With 400 dollar price difference is it that much worse than the XD400/4v2? I am planning on running C1 or C2 components in the front and C2-650x for the rear with the dual w3 10's in the back and the JD1000/1 to power the subs. Does everything check out? Im not tryna cheap out but I dont wanna pay for overkill either. Lastly, is there anything important I need to know, like is there some sort of special wiring I should be on the lookout for? haha. I appreciate all the help.

 

Wiring…woof!

Kidding. First off, the JD400/4 will work just fine. Your crossover settings, and band pass will all be in the head unit, and I don’t think you’re entering any SQ competitions, are you?

Okay, wiring. Everyone is going to have their own opinions, so here’s mine. 1/0 copper power wire from battery to fuse block in the truck. 1/0 copper ground from battery to body and to frame. Fused fuseblock, with correct amp fuses to each amp. 4ga copper power wire to each amp. 4ga copper ground to a GOOD common ground. All power and ground connections should be solid and grounds to bare metal. For speaker wire, 16ga to the doors, 12ga to the subs.

Hope that helps, and sorry.

 

Oh I forgot im probably gonna upgrade the head unit too. Not looking for a touchscreen but it looks like my options are slim without it. Im guessing it should still be good right?

Wow. That's a lot of information. I think ima have to study up a bit lol.

 

Yes, touchscreen is fine. Better if you subscribe to Apple Music, Spotify, Tidal etc. You can use the screen with those to control playback through Apple CarPlay or Android Auto. When shopping for a headunit, get the features you want, and include 4V preout and front/rear/sub outputs.

 

I've had several subwoofers over the last 15 years. Have installed dozens of sound systems for myself and others.

Last year installed a single Kicker CompR 12" for my Land Cruiser. Paired with an alpine 500w RMS amp. This thing hits so freaking hard. I've had 2 kicker 12's, L7 15, Kenwood, Rockford Fosgate subs. Nothing compares to my current set up. It is ridiculous.

Sub: Kicker 43CWR124
Amp: Alpine MRV-M500
Box: Skar SK1X12V

 

Picked up these dual jl audio w3 10” subs and an enclosure this past weekend from a fellow tw member. The audio shop i took it to plugged it into a multimeter and said everything checked out. Also I did a physical inspection and everything looks good, other than this tiny ding/pit on the surround of one of the subs. I did some googling and it said it shouldnt be much of a concern. Either way, cant wait to get this build started! Hopefully everything can be installed by this summer since this is a graduation gift to myself

 

Hijacking this thread again! Just an update--I graduated college and im getting everything installed later today. Picked out the JL C2's for the door speakers, 2 JL W3 10's for the subs, JL JD1000/1 to power the subs, JL JD400/4 to power the speakers, and the pioneer DEH-X8800BHS single din head unit. The guy at the audio shop mentioned that the W3's might not have enough airspace and tried to sell me the JL 10" stealth box for a steal, but I figured I should at least hear how these things sounded before buying a new sub.

 

Got everything installed—it bumps very hard. Thank you guys for the help !!