Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro

Funny that, I'm pretty set on 255/85r16s next time. Not that I'm unhappy with the 285s, I'm just very convinced that the benefits of narrower tires vastly outweigh the drawbacks vs wider tires. I wanted them to start with but my build was in progress during the absolute worst of the supply chain struggles roughly a year ago though and any decent option in 255/85 was months out.

Hate to break it to you but there really aren't many if any 285/75r16s that aren't E rated. Airing down a few pounds on gravel helps tremendously.

 

Interesting… maybe I didn’t look hard enough. I just couldn’t take a chance of needing a cmc at the time. I’ve got mine set to 30/31 cold and that’s the best I’ve gotten and still feel comfortable driving (plus even wear).

 

Yuppp just looked, every single 285/85/16 tire on tire rack at least is load range E.

Really the only advantage of 285s is the waaaay larger tire selection. Contrary to popular intuition most of a tire’s floatation when aired down comes from the length of the tire squishing on the surface, not width. The extra floatation the width gives you is almost completely negated by the increased forward resistance. The lower rolling resistance and unsprung weight of 255s are much bigger advantages

 

Hey @hyrule_trd
I’m finally switching my constant load “C” springs to the performance “A” springs.
Looks like in addition to being a lower spring rate, the A spring is also a little longer.

How much did you change your preload when switching out springs? I’m hoping to keep the keep the same lift or a little higher but get a softer ride.

 

So I was dumb. I thought that I could move the nuts up higher to start with more preload to compensate for my skid and sliders. That was wrong, I ended up with way too much.
After several lowerings, while not very accurate, I’ve got about 1.75 threads showing on the drivers side and 1.5 on the passengers or from the spring seat sitting around 8.25” drivers side and 8.0” passenger side and had me at 2.5” lift. They have settled some and I’m thinking about raising them up a tad again. The tires rub a little again though the CV boots look like they’re at a good angle. These are old measurements and I’m not sure what they look like as of today. I’ll try and get out to measure again.

Depending where your lift is at now, you might just try using the difference in spring height and lower it that much as a starting point.

 

Yep. I was hesitant to add more preload on the longer springs figuring I’d get coil bind. I like the idea of removing the difference in coil height on the preload.
I can’t remember how much lift my stock was. My current lift (bottom of fender edge to ground is 935mm driver, 955mm passenger. I got lean. It’s the highest preload I could get and still have 60 mm of droop when off the ground.

 

Sounds like you actually checked lol. I failed to check that and it’s where I went wrong. I checked my drivers side and from spring seat to middle of the bolt is 8” and I’m at 23.5” from center of wheel

 

Well, the coil switch was aborted. I tried the method using the truck / lower control arm to compress the spring. Got the old spring off fine. But compressing the new spring was a PITA. Because the FCPs do not have positive pressure to push the shaft out, I had a hard time lining up the shaft through the hole to get the top nut in place. As I lifted the LCA, I had to have my other hand pulling the shock shaft to get it to line up. But as I cranked up the LCA further, the shaft would compress since it’s not pressurized.
I’ll just use some spring compressors to get it done.

I have a new set of Elka 2.5 coilovers that I bought in 2020 but I waited so long for them that I bought the Ironman FCPs instead. I popped on the Elkas in the meantime. Pretty nice!

The FCPs with constant load springs, 255/80/17 E tires and 35psi can be a little jarring on sharp edged bumps on the streets and highways. The front was pretty stiff such that if I pushed up and down on the front bumper, the truck barely moved.

The Elkas are way softer. The sharp edge bumps are a bit more muted. I can also flex the front when I push up & down on the bumper. I’m interested to see how they do offroad. Hopefully no brake dive or bottoming out. They're described as “light” offroad duty.

They also gave me 20mm more lift per side. I’m thinking they’ll settle with time like the FCPs did.

Edit: looks like after a day of driving, the Elka coilovers have settled close to what the IM FCPs had me at.

 

That was the toughest part and I’m sorry I didn’t even think about mentioning it. The first time I tried that method I failed… I read a lot more about the process and took it slow. I may have used a zip tie in there to help guide it.
it’s nice to hear about the comparison between them and the Elka though.

 

What’s up everyone. I just installed the Foam Cell pro kit on my truck with 2.5 up front and the heavy leaf pack in rear. Rear is seriously higher than the front. I like the height in rear and would like to keep it that way. Ride is a great right now but the truck looks like it’s about to pounce on Mt. Everest. Any thoughts on somehow making the front work with the current height of the rear? Ironman recommends pulling 3 and/or 5 from the leaf pack or try raising the front but possibility of stiffening ride. This is my first Tacoma, just reaching out to see any solutions to the issue.

 

Thats a nice looking truck! When you say heavy do you also have the heavier coils, the 820# set? If you do you could probably go up
.25” without too much stiffness. Maybe if you ask them nicely, you could swap out the 820 for the 727# springs and go to about 3” up front. If you have normal LT tires, not E rated, I don’t think it’ll be that stiff but don’t quote me on that.
Lastly, while you might like the back like that, you probably don’t have much down travel with it at that height. Might want to consider that too.

 

Thanks @hyrule_trd. I did go with the heavier coils up front. I’ll be upgrading tires soon to a set of 285/70/17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers from the roller skates on them now 265/65/17 soon. I might use the truck for light off roading but mainly doing work on truck for looks (Use my 04’ TJ to run stuff over) I’ll check the down travel once I have tools (currently living in my RV before I move to VA). In addition I’ll be adding a swing out bumper at some point and not sure how much that will affect the rear height. I appreciate the info/ recommendations.

 

FWIW I pulled 3 and 5 and the rear still sits higher .

 

How long of a centering pin did you end up using when you pulled both?

 

Just thought of something. My habitat Prinsu (the shorter rack) has about 100lb on top of it (light bar, 2 load boxes) and I have the twin compressor with the extra tank in the hood area.

Do these count for the heavy load springs, or I should be fine with the mediums?

 

I also pulled 3 & 5, I was able to use the factory centering pin. I played it safe and ordered aftermarket centering pins, but they're still sitting on the table... Let me know if you need/want em.

 

Thanks, IM reps recommended the same. How much higher than the front are you sitting at? My wife has to drive my truck 600 miles next week and I don’t have the resources (tools/garage) to take the leafs out right now. I’m hoping I can find a shop in my area that can do it before she has to take the truck.

 

Those would count for the front, but I'd still avoid the HD front coilovers. With a steel bumper, steel cable 10k winch, and sliders the HD are still a bit rough on mine.

 

Just what I needed to hear. Thank you sir.

 

FYI, I am another with the bolt that damaged the petrol tank. Been in contact with John at Ironman4x4 and they offered to either pay the dealer directly or reimburse me. I chose the latter.
First:
Thank you for this thread, I would not have known otherwise until maybe more damage.
Second, they have been top notch and super responsive. I have found their engagement noteworthy and that keeps me as customer.
Sent them the invoice after work was complete. They will be sending payment back for the work.