5VZFE Turbo

No map. If I can get it running ok I think I can tune it from there. I have been on the Haltech knowledge site every day for months. Who knows this is my first try at this.

 

Dude, I would highly recommend having Gabe from SNP tune your truck remotely. He is the expert on these trucks and the haltech in the U.S. It will save you a ton of time and frustration.

 

Thanks for that. I have talked to him already, just havent actually set up an appointment with him.

 

It’s a pretty complicated process to get all the stars lined up for a perfect tune for these engines to do it correctly.
I would have Gabe Salazar do it.hes an
Expert in this field both turbo
And supercharged.
He did a fantastic job for me

 

I will give him a shout today if I have time. I should be ready to start this thing in the next day or two. Still dealing with the small things. I am about 85% complete. Need to wire in an IAT sensor, widebands, and finish the exhaust and vacuum lines. Turbo and intercooler all plumbed in.

 

Nice,
Remember everything has to be perfectly setup before your tune,
Just the smallest thing not setup will effect your tune and send it south.

including the smallest vacuum leak anywhere!
Any electrical issues including a weak ground strap,
Camshaft and crankshaft sensors,
I had to replace my crankshaft sensor just because it wasn’t at 100 percent.

 

Where is your Fuel pressure line routed? It needs to be rising rate for turbo. Take the left (rear) cap off the little vacuum port on top of the throttle body. Run a line from here to top of fuel pressure regulator. This will increase fuel pressure with boost.

Also looks like driver valve cover vent is left open. That should be sent to a catch can. The passenger Pcv looks to be still hooked up. Un hook it and cap intake manifold. Send this valve cover to the catch can as well. You want the least amount of crank case pressure.

Otherwise looks good!

 

FPR is now routed to throttle body. I have a catch can that will be installed tomorrow, with a setup like the one pictured here

 

Jon,
Did you do anything with the crank valley vent on yours? Looks like it goes to the IAC valve, not sure why.

 

There isn't a Crank vent on these engines (atleast 96 and up Tacoma). Maybe your T100 is different.

On the back of the engine there are (2) heater core lines, (2) throttle body lines <you can tap link into these for turbo coolant lines>, and the (2) little nipples are where the IACV dumps into. These go into the intake runners right next to the injectors.

If you do have a crank vent, send it to the catch can.

 

Thanks Jon. My confusion was with the air hose between the IAC and intake. I am still not 100% sure what that does, but it isn’t what I thought it was.

 

Is it something in one of my pictures or yours? Circle it and repost it.

 

These two pipes that go to a tee and then to the IAC. I thought it was a valley vent at first until I traced it to the throttle body.

 

Those go to the slits you see in each injector hole, its for some sort of air assisted focusing of the injector pintle. I think if you cap the nipples you can forget about it as long as your injectors have the right seals or you use injectors that don't need the slits at all.

 

That actually makes sense. To relieve any pressure build up around the injector well. Learn something new every day.

 

Wondering if there needs to be a check valve on that hose now. I havent been able to get this to run yet with the standalone so no idea if the manifold pressure with have any effect on that.

 

Is that 90* barb on the valve cover to the left of your circles not the crank vent?

 

With the intake off are you going to run ARP for the heads?
Head gaskets are a soft spot?


What is special about ARP bolts?


The process starts with wire coils and ends with fasteners, nuts and bolts that are superior to what is widely considered aircraft quality. ARP's fasteners are built to withstand serious racing and have higher tensile strengths and can survive higher stresses than most aircraft fasteners will ever see.

 

The things that go to the slits? Yeah should either have a check valve on that or in the Haltech setting you can program it to close the IAC valve under boost and it'll cut those off.

 

Ok cool. I did see that function in the software