What Have You Done To Your 2nd Gen Tacoma Today?

Installed a Hooke Road roof rack today. After reading through this thread I decided to grab one on prime day.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/hooke-road-roof-rack-ubox-offroad-com.598910/

 

A little baffling there's overspray as the rest of the truck not being painted should've been masked.

 

Wash ,spray detailed ,then ceramic spray wax . Cleaned up the glass with 0000 steel wool and Rain-X

 

Never heard of

cleaning glass with steel wool. Does it leave any kind of scratches at all?

 

Picked up my bumper at the freight dock on Wednesday. I'll probably install early next week.

 

I had centering rings installed for my aftermarket rims. Now the shake in my steering wheel is gone when I accelerate but I get a shake in the steering wheel when I break. Does this sound like a caliper? I had the breaks changed a year ago so I don’t think it’s rotors. What do you guys think? Are calipers an expensive job?

 

Calipers are generally around $100 per side. Then you need to do an extensive bleeding. Before spending that money I would have the rotors checked for warpage. Be a whole lot cheaper to get them turned. Generally speaking calipers don't cause a vibration. In my many years of experience, owning over 50 vehicles, calipers either work or they don't. When they go bad they will either seize up and lock up the brakes or seize up and not brake at all. If you have access to a dial indicator I would pull the front wheels and check the runout on the face of each rotor. It only takes a few hard braking incidents, or overtightening/improper tightening sequence of wheels, to warp a rotor. 0.015" of runout on a rotor can cause a noticeable vibration. One other thing to consider is the age of your brake fluid. If you haven't changed that fluid it can be contaminated which can also affect your brake system performance.

 

If your front end shakes when you brake are your rotors warped? Rotors can warp at any time depending on how hot you get them or if you didn't put heat in them properly on install. Take them to an autoshop that will turn them down on a lathe and see if they are warped.

 

Since I drove the truck without centering rings do you think that can warp a rotor?

 

No. Your hubs without centering rings still would maintain brake contact in the same area of the rotor. That would only affect the wheels rotating out of round to the spindle and not affect the brakes themselves. Without centering rings, if the wheel bore is too big, would be a similar feel as if the wheels were slightly shaped like an egg. The wheel studs and lug nuts would still maintain something close to being centric.

 

Ok thanks. I wasn’t sure if I did damage. I’ll take it in and have the rotors looked at.

 

No . Has to be 0000 steel wool only .Finest available meaning made with thinnest strands of steel wool .

 

Just ordered a new Mountain Hatch tailgate to replace my V1 original model I bought in 2019. I went out today and with the tailgate down in the sun the MH buckled and two of the lower attachment points actually snapped through the cover as it buckled. It's taken a bunch of abuse and never had a problem with it until now. New one on the way and the old one will be cut into cutting boards for continued use.

https://mountainhatch.org/collections/dodge/products/mountain-hatch-for-2005-2022-toyota-tacoma

 

I have been toying with the idea of doing this also. It was the first mod I bought for my truck back in 2018. 2 of the bolt holes on the sides have cracked and broken off but I haven't had any buckling issues. I have a topper though so it isn't in the sun very much. I also have a piece of carpet from my drawers I cut to fit the space then just put some Velcro on the tailgate to make an even softer place to sit. I love my Mountain Hatch and will for sure get another one when I need it.

 

They may've been broken already as I have a RSI topper on mine and I had the back open for some time while drying out the bed after a wash. The sun up here in Maine usually isn't that harsh, but it's been open before in Florida summer heat without that happening. After it had cooled it settled back down to be flush/flat. Crazy Maine weather. I blame lobsters.

 

After 7 years and 95k miles the KO2s are finally getting changed. New tires are Hercules terra trac x venture
275/70/17

 

Got a few things done today.

Got my Trasheroo mounted on the tailgate.



And polished my headlights with a Cerakote product I discovered from a YouTube video.

$17 CERAKOTE® Ceramic Trim Coat Kit - Quick Plastic Trim Restorer - Ceramic Coating Black Trim Restoration to Last Over 200 Washes – A Ceramic Coating, Not a Dressing

https://www.amazon.com/CERAKOTE-Cer...eadlight+restoration+kit,automotive,57&sr=1-3

 

I finally installed her rock sliders.

 

I think we all know this thread will never end because we all keep adding more and more lol

I finally finished the interior frame for my camper shell, installed the upTop alpha rack, reinstalled my RTT, and replaced the screens on the camper shell windows. Oh and I hosed mr Burgundy down too!

 

Two comment about your set up. If you wheel hard or do lots of dirt roads… the camper shell will be fine with the tent on it, even without the bracing. The issue will be the bedsides.

First go buy or make some high quality bed stiffeners. Otherwise you will start seeing bed separation near the tailgate

Also from personal experience, I ran my RTT on the camper shell for a while. What I found was that the camper shell was fine. No issues at all. But the weight of the two ended up starting to crush the bed sides. I have multiple sheet metal tears on my bed sides now. I finally took of the shell and mounted the RTT to a bed rack that ties to the frame vía the bed bolts. I would consider tying those shell supports to the frame.

Over time with that weight up there, your bed sides will start separating the bed sides and/or crushing them.