Please help with understanding OBDII live scan results

Oh, & now I am tilting as to why a fuel injector may contribute, yet a FPR wouldn't. The FSM kept listing the two together as possibly the source of whatever issue was being tested for.

 

I personally think it’s more likely to be a throttle body/ IAC issue.
I the video, your fuel trims start drop/changing right at about the time the engine is up to “normal” temp. (180ish) degree. When the the truck goes to CL, it will use the A/F sensors to calculate trims. Which is what it looks like your truck does.
I don’t know why your scanner says you are in OL.

But with the history of cleaning the intake, removing the throttle body, and knowing the 1st Gen have had issues with a worn throttle body. That’s probably where I’d look first.

 

Its stating I'm stuck in CL, not OL. It stays in CL from startup, through coasting, etc. & I do now get that if you had to pick one or the other, CL would be better, just would be nice to have it do what its supposed to....
I can't figure out how to get the scanner to do a graph like it's supposed to. It will only spit out a very long list I can transfer to a spreadsheet. Anyway, if I posted a ride with highway speeds, etc, you'd see that the idle is up to 1200 when I stop (put it in park). Maybe it's normal for the idle to be higher after being driven at highway speeds even on a "healthy" truck.

 

Oh, & I was planning on pulling the throttle body a couple/few days ago or longer?, just caught up in some junk I'm dealing with.... So yes, I am heeding the advice of those who have recommended I take another looksee. I will post some pics of the throttle body butterfly....

 

Yeah. It should be OL when cold.
And CL when warm.

If anything, I don’t think it being in CL at start would wouldn’t result in a High Idle.

 

I don’t have time to take the throttle body off now since I have an appt tomorrow a.m., so thought for fun I’d put the PCV through a more thorough, I guess I’ll call it, test. Keeping it in the position it would be whilst on the truck, I used a hand held vacuum & hooked it up to the bottom, (the opening going into the valve cover.) Even though my doing it manually seemed as though it was closed, the vacuum did not hold. I did check 1st that the attached hoses held vacuum. It seems what is happening is the stopper is not fully seating by such a minute bit that by manually (not using a pump) checking it, it seems ok.
99.9999% sure I know the answer, so I’m askin’ cuz of the .0001…. Absolutely no air should pass through the bottom end, correct?

 

I’ve never used a vacuum gauge to test a PCV.
I blow through them.

Here is the correct procedure for the 5VZ
http://www.markofshame.com/fsm/03_Tacoma/Repair_Manual/03tacoma/ec5vzfe/pcvsy/insp.pdf

 

the ~-8% overall fuel trim could be in just 1 cylinder which could result in that 1 cylinder causing the rest of the cylinders to go negative fuel trim. this could cause knocking and high idle.

 

Thank you. For some reason I did not think of checking the manual. Guess we can't think of everything though.

 

So I decided to check the camshaft position sensor. On the 200k setting, it reads 1.1.
Supposed to be 835-1,400. Funny (or not) because I had missed it when reassembling a while back. Noticed it & connected it & it made no difference in performance. At the time I did not know what it was for. Very difficult to find on diagrams (the electrical connector position). I took a pic & asked on here & got no response. Finally it occurred to me to check Tim’s belt vid. He called it the crankshaft sensor, however on my truck, the wire colors matched the camshaft sensor. I read on TW you could drive without it, so that, along with it being shot, would explain why it made no dif plugged in or not.

 

Finally removed the throttle body.



This is what it would be like with the TPS adjuster nut tightened, although as pictured, leaves no play on the tps side. Not sure if that’s ok. My guess is there’s some play for a reason?