1995.5 2.7 Manual 4x4 - Vermont Transplant - Back to CA

Love the bread trick!
I'm seeing a bit of play in the shaft where the driveshaft goes into the transfer case that will warrant observation in times to come

 

"a bit of play" I replaced the driveshaft yesterday, Dad it was getting quite noisy under 15 mph, but I've had a lot of vibration at all speeds ever since I bought the truck. It seemed to hit a "sweet spot" around 60mph where (recently) the truck felt like it was shaking itself to pieces (that's why I thought it was related to the clutch, it got WAY worse after the clutch blew).

anyway, I took it out on another shakedown ride this morning, and it's running and driving really really really well. I got it up to 70mph and there's just a little vibration at like 62, but I think I only noticed because I was looking for it, it's riding better than it has since I bought it.

I also think fixing the exhaust leak is actually helping to clean up the throttle body a little bit, or something. it's getting better with miles.

 

Love your build thread. I’m in a similar boat. Bought a regular cab from out west and brought it back to Vermont. I’ve been working it over the past 2 years. I just pulled the cluster apart yesterday to try to fix a wacky fuel gage.

keep it alive

 

you've got to be handy with bodywork to buy a 1st gen from the Northeast at this point, but the craigslist prices out west right now are at a PREMIUM. I'm glad I bought mine when I did

Not a speck of rot, the undercarriage still looks factory when I pressure wash it (I never drove it in VT in the winter), and obviously, it's just a super reliable drivetrain, I still absolutely love this thing. I'd say it's absolutely worth the investment, even at today's inflated prices. People try to pressure me to "upgrade" to something newer. I just laugh.

..newer seats and seatbelts.. now you're talkin'

 

I took the old truck to help my brother with an errand bout 45 minutes down the road. I have to say again, because it's gonna take awhile before I get used to how well the rig's runnin on the highway. Who knew you could drive one of these things without the dash rattling so loud you can't hear the engine?! AND you can actually see out the mirrors?! Boy, I'm starting to feel spoiled!



I think I need to adjust my priorities for the next few projects. Paint (which I've already started) is going to take a back seat for now, and A/C will move to the top of the list.



The valves are asking for adjustment, and now that I can hear them, I'll put a tweak peak under the valve cover on the list, too. That'll get done whenever I get to cleaning the throttle body.

 

I'm in the midst of diving into the research portion of fixing my Air Conditioning.

Based on the following advice, I'm probably going to just replace all my A/C components.

I think this is pretty sound advice all around, which is why I posted it before I dive into what I'm doing. The OP of that thread was in sort of the same boat I'm in. I have no idea how long my system has been open to the elements (at least 3 years), and my best guess says the components are probably not in good shape. After a little research, I don't see the point in trying to charge up the system on a prayer when I'll just have to get it drained and flushed professionally if/when something fails. Seems like it'll be more affordable to start fresh. I'm lucky my system was empty to begin with.

That said, I'm probably going to be doing the labor myself following this walkthrough.

Just trying to keep track of some part numbers for the project as I get into pricing it out, and I know I won't lose them here.

• The A/C line that broke on my rig is a "liquid line" that runs from my condenser to my drier. It was recalled because that happened so often, which is why I've kept striking out when I've looked for a replacement at the wreckers (the replacements look different). Toyota Part Number 8871604190 ($47.30)
• Compressor Component Kit - includes compressor, condenser, expansion valve, drier, o-ring kit, and oil ($251.79)
• Evaporator ($52.79)
• Autozone's Pressure Switch ($28.99)
• 2x Autozone's R134A 12oz - CA recipe, which is 50% more expensive than their normal stuff ($14.99)

Hypothetical Total - $410.85 (does not include shipping or tax)

It appears as though you can loan the manifold gauges and vacuum pump from Autozone.

All in all, I'm OK with that price tag for a brand new system. My sister just replaced the A/C compressor on her 2006 Ford Escape at a shop for $1200.

The cool part (pun intended) about this job is that I can dive into it right away and still use my truck as a daily driver. Doesn't seem like there are too many things on my to-do list like that.

More parts listed on post #29. AC replacement on post #44.

 

I regret not just loaning the tools from AutoZone initially so I say go for it. Not sure I would change the compressor if you don't need to, it isn't going to be damaged from a leak like the other components may be. Good luck!

 

Yeah, I was a bit confused as to how a compressor could get messed up because of dust, but I'll be replacing it anyway. Any bits of debris that I can get out of the system before I start putting new parts in is a priority. I'm sure there's a way to clean up the compressor really really well, but the new one is only $150, and I expect this system will be nearly OEM in terms of longevity, assuming I install it well.

I'm seriously considering replacing the lines, too. Their life expectancy is supposed to be pretty limited. Just haven't found a good source for new ones (Toyota prices are ugly). I figure as long as I clean them up well, they aren't going to foul up the rest of the system. No big deal if they're reused, they'll just be a weak point going forward.

 

Well, I can at least price out all the lines. GPD (my source for the components) also offers lines through rockauto, just not all of them.

Condenser to Drier not offered
Drier to Evaporator 1 not offered
Drier to Evaporator 2 ($8.53)
Evaporator to Compressor ($20.79) - this part did not fit
Compressor to Condenser ($18.26)
System Service Valve Kit ($3.64)

I've included the Condenser to Drier already in post #26, but there are two lines between the drier and the evaporator.. rockauto only has one. Drier to Evaporator 1 is going to have to be sourced from Toyota, I believe ($55.36).

Hypothetical Total: $410.85 + $106.58 = $517.43

Why are the driers so easy to find, but the lines going to and from them are only available from Toyota??

Anyway, this price is still pretty hospitable, and comes with a ton of peace of mind.

AC replacement on post #44.

 

I'm also going to start doing some seat mods.

My bench seat is pretty worn, and it is honestly terrible for every type of driving, too

I've seen a lot of guys do seat swaps, and I've definitely looked into it, but I think I'd prefer to keep the bench seat, and just mod it.

So, I've bought a

Universal Baja Inca Saddle Mexican Blanket Mini Truck Seat Cover

seat cover. That'll allow me to start cutting up the foam gradually, and basically doing whatever I want without changing the look too much

EDIT: 8/2/22 - to clean this up
I wanted to use Lexus seats for an air conditioned seat project, but my research led me to a whole lot of guys who couldn't figure them out. One guy had wired 12v directly to the fan, and it still wouldn't turn on. Seems I'd have needed to install an AC Amplifier, and who knows what that would've needed input from in the body harness. Anyway, I decided to keep looking. There had to be something more universal out there.

And finally, I tracked down the specific type of peltier module OEMs are using for AC in their seats. Not cheap! Each seat has 2, one for the butt, and one for the back. I'd definitely have to build my own housings for these. And there's a whole lot of kit that's still needed.

But... I also figured out that the leatherseats.com kit is using a Nissan part. This has led me to other models using similar setups, like some old Maximas (2009-2014). I think a cheap-ish commuter car like that should be a pretty good source for these modules, but when I price out the components on ebay I'm still around $375 for two seats, so I need to be patient and try to pick up the whole system (seats, loom, control panel, and anything else that's needed) out of a wreck. Wreckers are not the cheapest place to source seats, unfortunately, so I'll really be lucky to find what I'm looking for.

Anyway, it took me quite a few hours of research to get here, and I don't even think that was the hard part. Even if I strike gold on parts, I still have to integrate them. That could mean all kinds of things. My hope is that I can find a setup that'll want 12v and ground from the Tacoma, and that's it.

Further complicating the issue is that I want to reuse whatever seat foam and cover I end up with to upgrade the stock bench seat. That means seats with proper bolsters, and beige seat covers.



I haven't seen any ventilated seats with cloth covers yet, so I guess that means I'll have to learn how to sew leather to accomplish what's in my head right now.

 

EDIT: 8/2/22 - to clean this up
I have seen kits to convert manual seats to electric, and it definitely has me thinking about throwing motors from whatever seats I get into the bench seat and seeing what I can do.
I doubt I'll be able to have stuff like adjustable lumbar without modding the frame a lot, but who knows?

 

Dam it’s tempting to pull the bench seat. I probably would too if it weren’t for the a dog that’s usually rides shotgun. I’m excited to see how they look

 

I will hopefully post some updates shortly. I'm trying not to post every time my plans change, or else this would be the most irrelevant build thread on the internet.

That said, I pretty much hit a dead end on Lexus seats. Looks like they need quite a bit of input from the body harness.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is...-get-oem-heated-vented-seats-in-your-car.html

 

I got an OEM replacement washer fluid reservoir. It didn't fit in the original spot, so I moved everything up here where this unit is designed to go. Super easy job. Toyota left junctions for both the wiring and the water line here, and there are threaded holes on the inner fender, too. Essentially plug and play.


The washer nozzles were clogged, so I ordered a set of Honda Odyssey adjustable nozzles (

$17 76810-TK8-A01 Windshield Washer Nozzle Assembly

76810-TK8-A01). They popped right in. What an upgrade from stock!

 

http://www.car-part.com/

IDK if you ever used this site but it’s useful to find junkyard parts and can narrow down to location. I found some 1st Gen taco bucket seats in the area.

 

I used that site to find my bellhousing and my rear driveshaft. I always check there when I'm shopping around the used market, but wreckers out here are having to charge pretty high prices right now. They also aren't advertising pricing on that site anymore. I guess the cars they were buying for $1k at auction 2 years ago are now costing them closer to $4k, and the prices are changing too fast to try and keep up.

What that means to me is that the guys behind the counter can ALWAYS be bartered down, but they're starting at much higher prices.

I still look there a lot. The wreckers around here definitely have everything I'm looking for, it's really much different than living in VT 1st gen Tacomas are still really common out here! Even single cabs! But... as long as I'm not in a hurry, I'll try to find parts from someone who bought them years ago, and hasn't been paying attention to the used car market.

 

I'm prepping for my throttle body cleaning so I bought an OEM intake boot to replace the ripped one on my truck. That was actually cheaper than buying the replacement from Advance Auto Parts

Since I was ordering from the local dealership anyway, I went ahead and bought the A/C liquid lines that I had to get through them (mentioned in posts #26 and #29).

I guess that means my A/C system replacement project is really happening.

 

Yep, just placed my order on rockauto.

My brother in law reminded me that we're coming up on wildfire season here, and driving with my windows open might become downright hazardous, so..

 

How much were the ones you were looking at? Just out of curiosity. The cheapest set at any junkyard near me (like I said, most of them aren't advertising prices, so this is just what was online) is $270 for the pair.

 

I think $65-125. NH and NY though. So a bit of a drive