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ghost in the shell please help

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by icspbe, Aug 9, 2022.

  1. Aug 9, 2022 at 6:15 PM
    #21
    Dm93

    Dm93 Test Don't Guess

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    Except none of the things you are having problems with are on the CAN bus, the only thing's on there are the PCM, ABS Module, SRS (Airbag) module, Combination Meter (Instrument Cluster), Passenger Presence Module, and TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) Module.
    None of the body functions operate on the CAN bus on 2nd gens.
     
  2. Aug 9, 2022 at 6:19 PM
    #22
    VXEric

    VXEric Well-Known Member

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    Do you have the tow package? I've seen corrosion inside of the trailer plug cause weird issues between turn signals and brake lights before too.
     
    SR-71A and bigmw like this.
  3. Aug 9, 2022 at 7:49 PM
    #23
    icspbe

    icspbe [OP] Member

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    The more you know
     
  4. Aug 9, 2022 at 7:49 PM
    #24
    icspbe

    icspbe [OP] Member

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    Unfortunately not
     
  5. Aug 9, 2022 at 7:51 PM
    #25
    icspbe

    icspbe [OP] Member

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    I drove around for 7 hours today and the truck didn't have any of the aforementioned problems... SMH
     
  6. Aug 10, 2022 at 8:05 PM
    #26
    icspbe

    icspbe [OP] Member

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    Small update and another detail discovered...

    This whole rapid left blinker while pressing the brakes only happens when the DRL's or headlights are also currently on. Turn them off and the problem goes away.

    Otherwise didn't notice anything else new.
     
  7. Aug 10, 2022 at 8:09 PM
    #27
    Cudgel

    Cudgel “Tonka”

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    Reboot the ECU
     
  8. Aug 10, 2022 at 8:53 PM
    #28
    Waasheem

    Waasheem The catholic radio bear

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    I believe you you’ve further narrowed it down to headlights & wires or circuit to the front lights. Try unplugging one headlight, test, plug it back in, unplug the other headlight, test, unplug both, test. Unplug all bulbs to one front light, test, plug it back in, unplug all bulbs to the other front light, test. One of those tests, the problem may disappear. Now you’ve further narrowed it down to which side or both sides. If the problem never disappeared, you’ll need to start chasing wires, connectors, relays, fuses, switches. The previously posted wiring diagrams will guide you.

    Something I’ve seen, on the old style bulbs with the lead tit or tits on the end will melt and short. Or the area at the bottom of the bulb socket could have carbon build up or be cracked and shorting together or not making good contact to the bulb. Or a bulb was forced in 180 degrees wrong. Or a connector has a pin coming out of the back side, or a burnt spot. Or a bulb internally shorted, a broken filament on one side will sometimes touch the other side and act like a good bulb, or touch the other filament on a dual pin bulb and short.

    I still think you have a bad ground somewhere. Maybe not completely broken but not a good connection. I’ve seen lights do some wonky things due to a bad ground. Electricity likes to take the path of least resistance.
     
    BassAckwards and Dm93 like this.
  9. Aug 10, 2022 at 10:59 PM
    #29
    icspbe

    icspbe [OP] Member

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    I've checked every fuse that I could fathom being relevant in the cabin and under the hood... Unless it's a micro fracture, as mentioned, they all look totally fine.

    Also checked over the wiring for the blinkers, DRL's, and headlights... I'm really not sure, there's no rats nest and it all looks relatively clean...
     
  10. Aug 11, 2022 at 5:33 AM
    #30
    TenBeers

    TenBeers Well-Known Member

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    Several people have told you to check bulbs. The "fast flash" condition is intended to alert you that your truck thinks something is wrong with one of them. It doesn't matter if they appear to light up -- that is not a valid test. They are cheap, swap them out for fresh ones.
     
  11. Aug 11, 2022 at 5:28 PM
    #31
    Jerry Bear

    Jerry Bear Well-Known Member

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    OP:

    I saw you said the problem disappeared. Hopefully, you just had a bug or some liquid get somewhere it shouldn't be. Hopefully, it's dried up now and no longer making a connection so your problem will never return.

    But if it does, first do this:

    Here's a link to the the wiring diagram for the turn signals provided earlier by Dm93: https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachments/05-06-turn-signal-wiring-pdf.5121008/

    Swap the front left and right front turn lamps. See if the problem moves to the right side. If it does, replace the lamp. If the problem stays on the left side, swap the left and right rear turn lamps. If the problem moves to the right side, replace the lamp. If the problem stays on the left side, it's not the lamps.

    Then try this to troubleshoot the rear end ground wiring:

    Put the truck in reverse and verify both backup lights turn on. If either turn signal now hyperflashes, the problem is likely a bad ground of the rear taillight assembly that's hyperflashing. The stop, turn, tail, and backup lights all share the same ground wire from the taillight assembly. If the assembly has a bad, but not open, connection to ground, when the stop, tail, or backup light is on, not enough current will flow through the turn lamp. The flasher will interpret that as a bad turn lamp and will hyperflash that side to let you know.

    The left rear turn signal ground path is turn lamp socket to R5-3 to a splice to BD. R5 is the connector of the left taillight assembly. BD is a ground point where wire(s) connect to the truck body. To find the location of BD, see page 52 for V6 or page 53 for 4 cylinder of this Dm93 file: https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachm...round-points-connector-loactions-pdf.5121007/ Look at and around those points. There could also be a bad ground connection between the turn signal lamp and R5-3 on the left taillight assembly.

    To troubleshoot the front end ground wiring:

    Look at these places and the wires which connect them.

    The ground path for the left turn signal is F3-2 to 2A-35 to 2A-33 to a splice to EB. F3 is the lamp socket of the left front turn/DRL lamp. 2A is a junction block inside the fuse box under the hood. EB is a ground point where wire(s) connects to the truck body.

    For 2A, see pages 24 and 26 of this Dm93 file:
    https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachments/05-06-junction-connector-fuse-relay-locations-pdf.5121006/

    For EB, see page 52 for V6 or page 53 for 4 cylinder of this Dm93 file: https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachm...round-points-connector-loactions-pdf.5121007/

    If no ground problem found:

    If the above didn't help, check the entire left turn circuit for weirdness such as a water leak onto connectors or some sort of insect/rodent damage, or damaged wire(s)/wire insulation.
     
    Leomania and Dm93 like this.
  12. Aug 11, 2022 at 5:35 PM
    #32
    Jerry Bear

    Jerry Bear Well-Known Member

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    tint, topper, receiver hitch, trailer wiring, topper lighting, cruise control, intermittent wipers, backup camera, auto-dim mirror
    Everyone with a 2005 or 2006 Tacoma should download the files upload by Dm93 here and thank him for them. They include the turn signal wiring, air conditioner wiring, brake wiring, junction/fuse relay locations, and wire routing/ground points/connector locations. The last two show the locations of almost everything referenced in all of the wiring diagrams for the truck.
     
    Leomania and Dm93 like this.

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