Front axle between diff and right front wheel 1st CV assy?

The black squarish tube is where the problem is. It seems like it should be sealed into the part to its left but it is not connected and is just banging around. The black tube rotates with the wheel.

Does anyone know how much of the front axle I would need to replace?

FYI, this 2015 4.0L V6 4WD seemed to be "sticking" in 4WD after I tried to disengage, that seems like a common issue.

 

Hate to be that guy, but have you tried tightening the 4 bolts that hold it to the clamshell?

Also, if it's that loose, it's probably been leaking gear oil.

 

Thanks for the advice SP, it turns out that I was fed bad info from someone. Please see updated post.

 

The thing to the left should be the axle tube. If the “black thing” which is part of the CV, is loose and banging around. You need to remove the CV and inspect it and the bearing the axle rides in.

 

Thank you so much TnShooter, I will do that.

 

There is about 1/8" or so of up and down play in that shaft typically. At least slightly more so then one would expect. There is a common upgrade to the bearing on the drivers side (only the driver side) called an "ECGS bushing" the common test to see if it's a problem is to drive down the highway, if the vibration and noise goes away with you engage 4wd then the bushing is a likely culprit.

That "black squarish thing" is a part of the CV shaft. You typically replace the entire thing. New ones are $75-150 aftermarket. Very common wear part.

$72 Cardone 66-5235 New CV Constant Velocity Drive Axle Shaft

https://www.amazon.com/Cardone-66-5235-New-CV-Axle/dp/B002JT0UPA

This is roughly normal https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WN5svIWn2s

 

ZColorado, thanks so much for this advice. Yea, the black thing I now know if the CV joint assy. I managed to remove the passenger side assy but pulled the spider? bearing out of the black housing. That part of the CV just isn't coming out for us. I'm going to try and remove the whole axle now. Thanks so much for the links and video.

 

Need a few more pics.

 

I use a pry bar between the axle tube and black part of the axle. Yes, you bend the metal dust shield doing it this way. But it can easily be bent back. In your case, it doesn’t matter. The axle boot has been pulled off. I’d replace the axle at this point.

When prying it out. Hold up on the black part of the axle to keep the weight off of it. You want the axle to come straight out.

If that doesn’t work you can try the BFH method. I’ve never had to use this method. But others have.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/cv-axle-removal.595817/#post-25612532

 

The snap ring that retains the shaft is tricky to get to seat all the way so you can remove the shaft. It's all internal and impossible to see.

My trick is try some good meavy/medium heavy wacks or whatever with a prybar, punch or whatever then rotate the shaft 1/4 turn and keep trying. You need the snap ring gap to be at the bottom so it will fold in when pulled. it usually takes me a few full rotations before it comes out if it's tricky.

Thats really hard to describe until you see the snap ring on the end of the shaft.

Edit: here is a picture - An interesting removal technique
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dHQDIml4CyM

 

If stock CV the inner metal "can" has spots to use a heavy punch or piece of wood and a hammer to tap/hit them out (aftermarkets mainly do not). You have to pull the wheel off and unbolt the CV and lots of info on site showing that procedure.
ECGS video:
https://youtu.be/BOvoM5irtEc?list=PLaX0YktJvGQuk-Xge30aZX-EXwvlKNUVK
Drivers side has a roller bearing that is sloppy and ECGS bushing replacement solves that - did mine and most of the play gone.
Easy to do with their special tools listed on the site. Do the seals too while CVs out.
Pass side has a larger regular type bearing in the extended black tube so does not have the same issue, but again if CV out replace the axle seal.
OEM axles are costly and mostly not available so look at the NAPA new ones about $120 each and both sides same part #NCV944082.
Then drain and refill the diff also at this point.

 

Thank you guys so much, after having wrestled with this for a few days and having tried all that was suggested (including having someone stronger than me try to beat it out using the flats, and prying) it doesn't seem to want to come out. I understand a lot more of what is needed and have moved on to removing the entire front drive train.
When I removed the carrier/diff tube from the diff, only a Tbs of rusty water came out, I'm going to replace the entire thing, wheel-to-wheel.
If I could offer one bit of advice, I didn't need to remove either tie rod, just the 2 lower ball joint bolts to get both CVs out.

 

oh man that does not look great tbh

 

Was there any fluid in the differential?
You definitely had water intrusion at some point.

 

After I got it off the truck and set down, I tipped it over and some oily, rusty liquid leaked out of the driver side gear (pictured above). The carrier/diff tube side only released about of tablespoon of visible water.
I hunted arond for aftermarket, junk yard, etc and just went to the local Toyota dealer for replacement parts for the entire front drive train. Buy once cry once or so they say...

 

Wow, I bet that was expensive?
Did you take a look at ECGS?

I’m not sure what shape yours would be considered?
But if it was a good rebuildable core, you might save some money.

But buying new OEM is bad, at least you know it’s OE and good.

Sorry to see it thought, I know how unforeseen expenses can be.
No fun, no fun at all. And to beat it all I don’t like working on mechanical stuff.
I’d rather cut lawn, tress and landscape than turn a wrench.
I just do it because I don’t want to pay someone else to do it.

 

Looks like OEM is 41110-35A11 ~$1,700 from online dealers. So the dealer probably charged $2500

ECGS is $1300 with the core charge

 

I’ll say grab a manual transfer case, a non add diff and some beers. Enjoy!

 

@ZColorado, yep, that's how much it was and I'm ok with that. Thing is, we couldn't get it past the front frame rail and had to grind off about 1/2" of the rim where the 2 clamshells came together. I'll put the CV axles in tonight and take it for a spin.
Update: The factory front diff had the threaded hole for the diff & ADD breather tubes assembly in the wrong place. The hard pipe section and mounting bracket would NOT fit on the diff. I ended pulling the breather tubes off the hard pipe section and ran them directly to the breather nipples on the diff & ADD. Luckily there were clamps halfway up the drvr side wheel well (engine compartment) that I was able to attach them to. I don't plan on taking this truck into deep water so I think I'm good.