2000 TRD OFFROAD MT (Black Betty aka Black Hole aka Tamiya Bruiser II) Rebuild Thread

You'll hate the 880s on your setup, unless you add preload via the 5100s.

Even then, go 881s at least.

 

Don’t keep this truck. It’s obviously been rallied and not what you want.

Get the proper Fabtech front shocks. Find some cheap OEM springs. You should use a Wheelers upper mounts over OEM (much Cheaper)

Replace ball joints and seals like you are.

Get some new tires on it.

Clean it up, and then sell it. Hope to get 10-11k for it.

I wouldn’t trust any part of these trucks offroad with 35’s little more 37’s. Small ball joints, tooth pick steering links 7.5” low pinion front diff.

 

Bro, you asked for opinions, that’s what you’re going to get. If you don’t like that then that’s not on us.

That truck doesn’t have a straight body panel on it, and a bent front shock, no sway bar. That doesn’t happen by somebody babying it its whole garage kept life.

I think I gave you pretty good advice actually.

I’ve built over 7 Toyotas, and multiple Jeeps/ Buggies, I know how this game works. Start with what is closed to what you want. I say that because it sounds like you know what you pretty much want.

I’m coming from a 3rd gen as well.

 

Bro, go drive all your trucks an jeeps.

I specifically said in the first post im not just looking for opinions in general. I will ask specific questions.

You are way off base. This trucks body and frame are strait. OEM panels all around. This truck has not had bodywork... beyond what is obvious... its covered on scratches and minor dents and dings but I'm not looking for a show truck. The frame and body are solid.

This truck has thousands of dollars of nice parts on it and its low miles to boot.

 

Here is some info for you. I apologize for being fiesty.

The replacement front struts you need are FTS70001S. That is the correct part number, many places for some reason list it as rear.

$166 Fabtech FTS70001S 6" Rear Shock for Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/Fabtech-FTS70001S-Front-Toyota-Tacoma/dp/B001GESA74?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Here is the instruction manual for your lift. Quick read, looks like some of the frame is cut to install it, so it may be more work than just removing the kit.

Link fixed*
https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/instructions/fabtech/FAB-K7003-installation-guide.pdf

 

Finding information on these springs is taking more time than I'd like. I have ordered everything, except springs, I need to start tearing into the truck.

I need the spring rate and uncompressed length of both the factory and the replacement. The specs on the replacement is easy enough to find. I need a specification on the factory spring for my truck. Something from Toyota. All the info I can find is anecdotal.

Does anyone have this? Just stating it's 540lb/in and 14" is not good enough. I need a verifiable reference.

 

Nobody? ... ... Bueller? ... Bueller? ... ... ... Bueller? ...

Does the FSM have this info? Generally FSMs give specs for when to take things out of service. So perhaps it may give specs on the springs...

I ordered a paper FSM on Amazon. I like getting the paper all greasy while I'm working. I also am not looking to download the .pdf (I know there are many .pdf copies floating around here somewhere.) Call me weird, but I'm weird.

I was hoping to get started tearing the truck apart next weekend buuuut.... I still have not completed a prior project that is holding me up... Installing baseboards... Not as much fun as working on a vehicle but it needs to be done. Hopefully in 2 weeks I'll have some pics to post...

 

Well, it's because the specs are posted pretty much everywhere.

As for an FSM, those are available in multiple areas (including a few threads on this forum) for download.

One zip folder on here has each 'section' broken down into separate, smaller PDF's. But no, the FSM is for servicing and will not have the specific rates/lengths of the stock coils.

 

Just realized you already found and posted the specs; what is it you're asking?

 

I was looking for confirmation from a reliable source i.e. Toyota.

I like to be sure... Don't want to get the wrong springs...

 

Also, FSMs generally have go - no go specifications for many parts. All FSMs are not created equal. I have not had the pleasure of thumbing through a Toyota FSM. I would expect it to be pretty comprehensive.

 

The info I have found on spring rates and lengths are also in conflict. If stock are 540lb/in and 14"; the 880s are 500lb/in and 14.37"; and the 881s are 500lb/in and 14.76, the OME springs cannot possibly provide the lift they claim. Something does not add up...

 

Wait, so your concern is...you are afraid to buy coils, from a manufacturer that has successfully sold a countless number of suspension components for many different vehicle types worldwide because you're paper comparison of OEM vs OME doesn't add up?

Yes I know how coils are measured; "x" amount weight equals "x" amount of compression.

If the question truly boils down to "what OME coils should I buy", many vendors have charts (including ARB/OME itself) based on added-weight-over-stock.

What will you do based on the added variable a Bilstein 5100 shock offers (for the front)?

There's one version that offers 4 levels of ride height, and a more current one that offers 3 levels of ride height.

 

Hmmm... Yes, these charts sound like the right direction.

And Yes, I like to completely understand the ramifications of modifications I make to my vehicles. I will admit, I have stayed away from suspension specification in the past. But I would like to delve in further so I can better make decisions on what is needed in the future.

The dampers will have no effect on ride height. With the caveat that moving the spring perch on the tube will.

Your springs and dampers have everything to do with how your vehicle behaves both on the pavement and on the rocks. Spring selection should not be taken lightly. Nor should dampers. I do not have much choice with the dampers in my specific case.

I have read alot of "ride is too stiff" "ride is too soft" (folks pairing Billy Stein and Mr. Emu) im just trying to get in there where I want to be. There is alot of nuance to this and the math will give you the correct answers. I will always prefer to look at numbers when they are available. One major issue with the math is your kind of screwed if you start off with the wrong numbers. Sourcing good specs can be quite difficult at times.

 

So this ARB chart specifically calls out the heavy load spring as a 2" lift. I'd guess I have more than 200lb on the front of my truck so I would not see that much lift. It also states;

So, I'm just assuming... the Nitrocharger struts must give added lift over stock as well...

Just alot of assumptions here...

 

Ok. Just ordered a set of OME 2880s. I called ARB and discussed options with them and got specs on their springs. See mah maths below.


So basically the difference between the 2880 and the 2881 is ~.39 inches or ~197lb. e.g. Put 2880 on one truck and put 2881 on another identical truck the truck with the 2881 will be .39in taller. Put 197lb of bumper, or other weight, over the front axle and they will be the same height.

I will update once I get started! Thanks for all the info!!!

 

Whelp, I finally got started today. So many things going on right now its difficult to find time. Put the ol girl up on some concrete blocks and jackstands.



Wheels came off pretty easy, though some of the lugs (all of the lugs actually jus some more than others) were on there pretty tight. Impact didn't really want to get them off. I had to go up to 125psi on my IR Titanium 1/2" impact.

The rear bumper was a bit worse...



Impact would not back these out! I had to use a 3' breaker bar and it destroyed this allen. A nicer hex ended up doing the job.

The rear bumper was tight! Had to use a small sledge and alot of taps on each side to back it off the frame.

The bumper itself is home made, I believe. It does seem pretty heavy duty. It does not have any weep holes in it. I will punch some holes before I repaint it.



There definitely is some rust where the bumper tied to the frame. I believe it's all surface though. I'll know better once I clean it up.



While I'm on the rear of the truck I noticed the half leaf on top. Is this normal? I can't say I have ever seen a half leaf... May be common and I just haven't seen it. Also, the U bolts holding the leaf pack to the axle, these do not look like the correct bolts for this job. Comments? Last thing on this. You can see some of the leafs are not stacked as well as they could be. Suggestions to remedy this? Bend a couple of retainers? Not sure how I would keep them in place...



Rear drums were serviced not too terribly long ago.



There was definitely some rust on the front bumper. Thankfully not much of it made its way over to the truck frame. I'm thinking, a quick sand blast and epoxy prime and everything on the truck will clean up nicely. The bumpers themselves have some deeper scars but I'm just going to clean them up real good (wire wheel grind and sandblast) and prime. Not so worried about rust scars as long as they are not a structural issue. I'm not after a new looking truck.



After pulling the bumper, I had to destroy one of the KC lights getting them off. I'll have to find some cheap Amazon replacements. The winch sucks a little more. I think the PO bound the cable up on one side of the winch and cracked the case. I will have to see if I can get replacement parts after I disassemble it further. Hopefully I can get whatever I need since its a Warn.



The brake lines are all too short. I'll get some longer steel braded ones.


One last thing of note. The driver side CV axle has alot of play (~1/8") up and down. Passenger side is pretty solid. Not sure if I need a bearing or bushing or what. I'll consult the FSM and see what info it has.

Should have more updates after tomorrow.

 

Nice to see some disassembly going on.

 

Pretty sure those u-bolts aught to be the square variety

 

I did not get as far as I wanted today but I did make some progress. Above is where I am going to put the battery. Right in front of the passenger rear wheel on top of the slider. Space is pretty tight here but I don't have alot of good options. I will need to notch the angled slider support in order to be able to get the battery in and out without removing the bed. I will also need to trim the fender a little at the bottom as well. I think this will end up working out pretty nicely.



This is a mockup of the box. I'll be making it out of 1/4" aluminum.



Here is the reason it cannot go under the hood.


I pulled the bed and pressure washed everything. Thats about where I'm at. I'm planning on starting sand blasting next week.



I also found this printed on the leaf springs. Looks like it is an All-pro Off-Road's 4500T-AP-5. At least now I know the half spring is in fact how it is supposed to be. I might contact them about the twisting leaf pack and see what they think.

I hope to have another update next weekend.