NW WA Meet / BS Thread

Nah just tell them Kevin Butts told you they would

 

How do you get them to answer the phone? I don’t think they’ve ever answered lol

 

Hey they actually called me back! @Buttskevin21

 

Yes just like those.

 

This is a long shot, but does anyone have any leaf spring bushings laying around?

Maybe you bought some to install and haven’t gotten around to it yet lol.
Hit me up!

 

Headed to Moses lake dunes tomorrow, big mud bog/drag event going on there and will be rallying around the dunes a bit if anyone wants to join.

 

Anyone going to this? I might stop by around 1.

 

Hey y’all, I’m helping my buddy sell his clean WRX. Super fun car to drive.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/fs-2015-subaru-wrx-6speed.778509/#post-27833323

 

While I have my transmission out and I’m waiting on some parts I decided to rebuild my drivelines. I went to NAPA and the parts guy who asked me if I have two driveshafts in my 4wd said they don’t make front Ujoints and you replaced the entire shaft when they go bad. I’m a little mind blown.

 

I’m sitting outside the store completely dumbfounded. Like the meme where the dude just stares and blinks. I guess I’ll just shit can my front driveshaft and get a new one or maybe get the one piece 4wd shaft.

 

I really don't think that the universals are different for the front shaft. That would be very un-Toyota-like. On my Taco, the fronts have zerks, but the rear shaft does not. Sometime in 2019, I think they went to sealed all around. I think it is the same part for fit though.

Check the Spicer catalog? IMHO, I'd go with sealed and add a bit more grease when installing them, esp on the front shaft.

 

@Shadowhunter The unies on the front drive shaft are different than the rear, but you can definitly get just the joints.... I have one for the front in my spares box... from Arlington Napa I could check the part number for you after work

 

You might want to pull it out and make sure it’s not a wood block with directions on how to dispose of the front shaft.

 

They are different. Front:

$23 Spicer 5-153X U-Joint Kit 1310 Series (OSR)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CKN762?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

rear:

$34 Spicer 5-1330-1X U-Joint Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DOI8BDS?smid=A30XU5Y510T9EB#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

Spicer is an OEM supplier. Exact same parts that came stock on my 2007 TRD OR 4x4. All greasable like they should be.

 

Did you look around for the "punked" hidden cameras? Or was it Johnny Knoxville at the NAPA counter?

Either that, or someone is trying to make their monthly quotas for commissions?

 

Thanks! Bad guess on my part and sorta surprised.

That should help @Shadowhunter though.

 

Edited my post as I had front and rear switched. The fronts can be a bit annoying to get a grease gun onto but at least the shaft spins freely

 

Yeah. The front can be a small pain, but I was helping someone with a 2nd Gen on the rears. Having to coast it back and forth was more time consuming. I suppose jacking the diff would have eliminated that?

In the end, attempting to clean up the squeeze out after getting it to come out of all four cups is by far my least favorite. Not sure about the 2nd Gens, but the 3rd Gen crossover pipe is double walled, so the grease will not cook off, just stank.


BTW, this thing is pretty killer: I think the actual Lock-n-Lube has a slightly smaller tip on it, but the HF one fits in there for me.

 

He even went and got the ”Guy from the back”. I didn’t want to argue with them or waste anymore time. I just paid for my shit and left.