Locker Switch Wiring for Small Toyota style switches

I recently installed an ARB Twin compressor on a Slee Offroad mount. I have the power/isolation/locker switch wiring loom running through the AC drain hole routed to the overhead console using a Meso switch panel and a Ch4x4 switch.

I'm starting to gather information on installing the Ch4x4 small Toyota front/rear locker switches to the ARB switch harness. I'm not a fan of the rocker switches. I'm curious if anyone else has done this and has any tips or tricks for the wiring. Also, any color matching wire help would be amazing. Thank you.


Here is the install video incase you want to watch it. It is a super long video, sorry.

https://youtu.be/dU5F1ccnFnc

 

It should be the same, you can use the harness included with the ARB kit and replace the switches with the smaller CH4x4. The load of each switch is in series with the line of the next so the front locker can’t be engaged until the rear locker is engaged which can’t be engaged until the compressor is on. The rest is just the illumination wiring, pretty simple really.

 

@6 gearT444E
Thanks for the reply. Nothing is easy for me. I understand the series and how one needs to be on before the other. The ARB switch 1 & switch 2 harness have a different color wire. It seems way easier for me to wire up these switches when I start from scratch. Maybe I'm over thinking it, but adapting them to fit an already set up harness is messing with my head.

 

Hey classytacos. I watch alot of your videos but recently did the forum remove the video thread. I can’t seem to find it

 

Yes, I believe they did remove the Tacoma video thread. It's a bummer, there was some good content on the thread from so many different people. I sent the admins a pm trying to find out why it was removed. Never got anything back.
Thanks for watching my stuff, appreciate.

 

Maybe I’ll start a thread asking where it went. Thanks

 

@ClassyTacos inwatched your video. I also used a ch4x4 switch and my air compressor works flawlessly

my front locker switch I think fried when it got turned on the first time since it locked then wouldn’t unlock. Sounds like a failed short scenario. Did you add a relay for the lockers?

 

From my understanding the ARB harness has a relay within the compressor, so I did not add a relay. It's odd the locker switch fried as the power has to go through the isolator switch first before the front locker switch. Maybe follow the loom and check for any tears in the wiring where it could be making contact to metal.

 

I ran continuity nothing in the loom is shorted to ground or to any other wire in the loom. The only issue I can find is the switch which is shorted.

When I have the switch installed I immediately get the full voltage on the pressure solenoid before I even turn the compressor switch on. I was getting the pressure release when turning off the compressor, which makes sense if that switch for the locker is shorted.

The top switch with the compressor activation has worked perfectly for months and still works. Just now that the second switch is welded shut the locker is also activated and I can smell a burning smell. I think this was the illumination diode.

I posted my wiring here, look correct?
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/help-wiring-arb-ckma-12-compressor-to-ch4x4-switch.479443/page-3

 

@TheIncredibleTaco
In this video I install the wiring for the locker switches. Go to 16:28 in the video. I hope this helps. I followed the ARB schematics for the CH4x4/AOB switches and everything works here. Do you have an extra switch in the garage somewhere you can test with?

https://youtu.be/snhGjtQz0uQ

 

Got it working now. I had to add a relay. The inductive solenoid load was frying both illumination diodes for the bottom switch by forcing current in the reverse bias direction (inductors don’t allow step current changes). Put together a detailed schematic. This is what caused the failure.


the key difference in dual vs single switch is that the ARB harness has a protection by providing switched power from the isolation switch to switch 1 (my front locker). Using a dual switch both switches are always powered. In theory it would work since you need air to turn on the locker anyways but there must be some circuitry I wasn’t able to reverse engineer that causes the failure.

Adding a relay restores that relationship and bought one from CH4x4 with a resistor to protect against surge voltages. All that it definitely is ok now. Only weird thing now is the bottom switch turns on blue and green leds when on. I’ll have to think why that happens but it seems not to be a problem at this point.

overall the dual switches definitely seem to have some nuances to them vs the singles since yours haven’t failed. If someone ships me one I can rip open and destroy I’ll post the schematic up.

 

Glad you got it all figured out.